Content deleted Content added
m cite repair; |
Rescuing 0 sources and tagging 1 as dead.) #IABot (v2.0.9.5 |
||
| (4 intermediate revisions by 3 users not shown) | |||
Line 12:
At the end of the 18th century, the first mechanical spinning mills began to operate. However, for more than 150 years, the textile industry relied on subpar testing equipment. The yarns had to be visually checked, either by manually stretching a few yarns or by inspecting them on the blackboard.
Between 1935 and 1945, the electronics industry made huge strides to produce military equipment. After [[World War II]], new electronic components improved measurement technology. Testing textiles was one area of application among many. After 1950, it was possible to check in an instant what it took 30 minutes to measure [fiber length] with an end-aligned staple diagram apparatus.<ref name=":3">{{Cite web |last=Borneman |first=Jim |title=Efficient Yarn Production {{!}} Textile World |date=12 September 2008 |url=https://www.textileworld.com/textile-world/features/2008/09/efficient-yarn-production/ |access-date=2022-12-05 |language=en-US}}</ref>
=== Timeline of the important tests and equipment's ===
Line 97:
==== Cotton classification ====
Cotton classification, or classing, is the process of classifying cotton based on its grade, [[Staple (textiles)|staple length]], and micronaire.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Cotton Properties |url=https://www.cottoninc.com/quality-products/nonwovens/cotton-fiber-tech-guide/cotton-properties/ |access-date=2022-04-07 |website=www.cottoninc.com}}</ref> Micronaire is a measure of [[cotton maturity]].<ref>{{Cite web |title=2.2.1-Cotton Value Addition-Micronaire |url=https://www.cottonguide.org/cotton-guide/cotton-value-addition/micronaire/ |access-date=2022-04-07 |website=www.cottonguide.org }}{{Dead link|date=August 2025 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> Maturity of cotton fibers is measured with single fiber measurement test or by double compression air flow test. It is expressed in percentage or maturity ratio.<ref name=":12">{{Cite book |last=Centre |first=International Trade |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=dHL-DwAAQBAJ&q=the+relative+wall+thickness+(i.e.+the+area+of+the+cell+wall+to+that+of+a+circle+with+the+same+perimeter+as+the+fibre,+or+the+ratio+of+the+cell+wall+thickness+to+the+overall+%E2%80%98diameter%E2%80%99+of+the+fibre) |title=Cotton Exporter's Guide |date=2007-12-31 |publisher=United Nations |isbn=978-92-1-361490-7 |language=en}}</ref>
==== Micronaire ====
Line 155:
==== Sweating guarded hot plate test ====
The test method evaluates the thermal resistance and water vapor permeability of fabrics, which bear on the garment's comfort.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=LINGAAAAYAAJ&q=Sweating+guarded+hot+plate+test+method|title=Occupational Health and Safety ; Protective Clothing|date=2007|publisher=ASTM|isbn=978-0-8031-4412-5|page=346|access-date=2021-07-03|archive-date=2021-08-11|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210811104619/https://books.google.com/books?id=LINGAAAAYAAJ&q=Sweating+guarded+hot+plate+test+method|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite journal|date=2006-08-01|title=Sweating guarded hot plate test method|url=https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0142941806000523|journal=Polymer Testing|volume=25|issue=5|pages=709–716|doi=10.1016/j.polymertesting.2006.03.002|issn=0142-9418|last1=Huang|first1=Jianhua|access-date=2021-07-03|archive-date=2021-07-09|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210709184404/https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0142941806000523|url-status=live|url-access=subscription}}</ref>
* ISO 11092:2014 (the test for physiological effects — Test for measuring thermal resistance and water-vapor resistance)<ref>{{cite web|title=ISO 11092:2014 |url=https://www.iso.org/cms/render/live/en/sites/isoorg/contents/data/standard/06/59/65962.html|access-date=2021-07-03|website=ISO|archive-date=2021-08-11|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210811104649/https://www.iso.org/standard/65962.html|url-status=live}}</ref>
Line 187:
==== Kawabata evaluation system ====
[[Kawabata evaluation system]] measures the mechanical properties of the textiles, such as [[Tension (physics)|tensile strength]], [[Shear stress|shear strength]], surface friction, and roughness, The Kawabata evaluation system predicts human responses and understands the perception of softness. It can also be used to figure out the short-term heat transfer properties that are responsible for the feeling of coolness when fabrics touch the skin while being worn.{{sfn|Allerkamp|2010|page=[https://books.google.com/books?id=RNlfJ1CFKoQC&q=kawabata+evaluation+system&pg=PA53 53]}}<ref>{{Cite journal |last1=Harwood |first1=R. J. |last2=Weedall |first2=P. J. |last3=Carr |first3=C. |date=1990 |title=The use of the Kawabata Evaluation System for product development and quality control |url=https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1478-4408.1990.tb01244.x |url-status=live |journal=Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists |volume=106 |issue=2 |pages=64–68 |doi=10.1111/j.1478-4408.1990.tb01244.x |issn=1478-4408 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210709182901/https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1478-4408.1990.tb01244.x |archive-date=2021-07-09 |access-date=2021-07-03|url-access=subscription }}</ref>
== Mechanical testing ==
A variety of mechanical testing can be conducted on textile fibers, yarns and finished products. Factors such as the chemical structure of the fibers, twist of yarns and weaving structure can affect the mechanical properties.<ref name=":4">{{Cite book |
For individual fibers, the following testing standard is employed: ISO 5079 (2020).<ref>{{Cite web |title=ISO 5079:2020 |url=https://www.iso.org/standard/76604.html |url-access=subscription |access-date=2024-05-13 |website=International Organization for Standardization |language=en}}</ref>
Hydraulic or pneumatic methods can be employed to test the burst strength of textiles.<ref name=":4" /> In this test, a material is stressed in all directions at the same time by use of water (hydraulic) or air (pneumatic).<ref>{{Cite web |title=NPTEL :: Textile Engineering - Textile Testing |url=https://archive.nptel.ac.in/courses/116/102/116102029/ |access-date=2024-05-13 |website=archive.nptel.ac.in}}</ref> This is especially useful for applications such as parachutes, filters etc., as it provides more information compared to the uniaxial results obtained from the tensile strength measurements.
For nonwovens, ISO 9073-7 (1995)<ref>{{Cite web |title=ISO 9073-7:1995 |url=https://www.iso.org/standard/16657.html |url-access=subscription |access-date=2024-05-13 |website=International Organization for Standardization |language=en}}</ref> can be employed to gauge both bending length and flexural rigidity. In this, one end of a rectangular strip of fabric is supported with a ruler, while the other end hangs freely. Length of the material that will bend under its own weight to a specific extent is expressed as bending length. It provides a measure of the drapability of the fabric, whereas, flexural rigidity provides a measure of the stiffness of the fabric.<ref>{{Cite journal |date=December 1959 |title=Tentative Textile Standard No. 60. Method of Test for the Determination of Stiffness of Cloth |url=http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/19447015908664338 |journal=Journal of the Textile Institute Proceedings |language=en |volume=50 |issue=12 |pages=P772–P775 |doi=10.1080/19447015908664338 |issn=1944-7019|url-access=subscription }}</ref>
ISO provides four different tests to measure tear strength of fabrics. ISO 13937-1 (2000) defines tear strength as "the force required to propagate a tear initiated under the specified conditions"<ref>{{Cite web |title=ISO 13937-1:2000 |url=https://www.iso.org/standard/23369.html |url-access=subscription |access-date=2024-05-13 |website=International Organization for Standardization |language=en}}</ref> This test is useful for analyzing a material's behavior when subjected to a cut.
| |||