Flannel: Difference between revisions

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{{Short description|Soft woven fabric}}

:''This article is about a fabric; for other uses see'' [[Flannel (disambiguation)]].

{{about|the fabric|the toiletry item|Washcloth}}

{{Other uses}}

{{Not to be confused with|Plaid|text=a [[tartan|plaid]] fabric}}

[[File:Flannel Shirt For Abi.jpg|alt=Grenn flannel shirt in front of red brick wall|thumb|Flannel shirts are often [[tartan|plaid]].]]

'''Flannel''' is a soft [[#Weave|woven]] [[fabric]], of varying fineness. Flannel was originally made from [[carding|carded]] [[wool]] or [[worsted]] yarn, but is now often made from either wool, [[cotton]], or [[synthetic fiber]]. Flannel is commonly used to make [[tartan]] clothing, [[blanket]]s, [[bed sheet]]s, [[sleepwear]], and several other uses.

Flannel may be brushed to create extra softness or remain unbrushed. Brushing is a mechanical process wherein a fine metal brush rubs the fabric to raise fine fibres from the loosely spun yarns to form a [[nap (textile)|nap]] on one or both sides. If the flannel is not napped, it gains its softness through the loosely spun yarn in its woven form.

[[Image:Dylanflannel.jpg|thumb|right|100px|A young man wearing a [[tartan]] flannel shirt.]]

'''Flannel''' a warm fabric of various degrees of weight and fineness, usually made from loosely spun yarn.

The term "flannel shirt" is often mistakenly used to refer to any shirt with a [[Plaid (pattern)|plaid]] or tartan pattern. However, 'flannel' refers simply to the fabric; not all flannel shirts are plaid and not all plaid shirts are flannel.

Flannel is a light-to-medium weight [[weaving|woven]] [[cloth]] commonly used to make [[clothing]] and [[bedsheet]]s. It was originally made from [[carding|carded]] [[wool]], but is now often made from either [[wool]] and [[cotton]], or wool and synthetic fibre.

==History==

The term "flannel" is also often used to refer directly to the clothing created from flannelette. Today, many so-called flannels are made with a large mixture of cotton or synthetic fibres. These are, in some countries called flannelettes. In fact, in some countries (e.g. the [[United Kingdom]]), it is illegal to sell flannelettes under the name 'flannel'.

The word's origin is uncertain, but a Welsh origin has been suggested as fabric similar to flannel can be traced back to [[Wales]], where it was well known as early as the 16th century. The fabric was called <nowiki>''Welsh cotton''</nowiki>, and despite its name, it was a coarse [[woolen]] material with a fluffed surface similar to flannel.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Montgomery|first=Florence M.|url=https://archive.org/details/textilesinameric00mont|title=Textiles in America 1650-1870 : a dictionary based on original documents, prints and paintings, commercial records, American merchants' papers, shopkeepers' advertisements, and pattern books with original swatches of cloth|date=1984|publisher=New York; London : Norton|others=Internet Archive|isbn=978-0-393-01703-8|pages=373}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=WELSH COTTON {{!}} Definition of WELSH COTTON by Oxford Dictionary on Lexico.com also meaning of WELSH COTTON|url=https://www.lexico.com/en/definition/welsh_cotton|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200806131116/https://www.lexico.com/en/definition/welsh_cotton|url-status=dead|archive-date=August 6, 2020|access-date=2021-05-20|website=Lexico Dictionaries {{!}} English|language=en}}</ref>

The French term ''flanelle'' was used in the late 17th century, and the German ''Flanell'' was used in the early 18th century.<ref name="FEB">{{cite EB1911 |wstitle = Flannel|volume=10 |pages=480–481}}</ref>

In the United States, the terminology is slightly different. The term 'flannelette' is not used, and 'flannel' frequently refers to 100% cotton fabrics. It is also unusual to use the term to refer directly to a garment.

Flannel was a well-known product of [[Wales]]. It has been made since the [[17th century]], having gradually replaced, as the local [[textile]] product,replacing the older [[Welsh plains]], some of which were finished as '"cottons'" or [[Frieze (textile)|friezefriezes]]s., coarse woolen cloth that was the local [[textile]] product. In the 19th century, itflannel was made, particularly [[Montgomeryshire]] in towns such as [[Newtown, Montgomeryshire]],<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.newtown.org.uk/history.htm |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20070420161245/http://www.newtown.org.uk/history.htm|url-status=dead|title=Newtown History|archivedate=April 20, 2007}}</ref>, [[Hay on Wye]],<ref>http{{Cite web|url=https://www.cpat.org.uk/projects/longer/histland/midwye/mwindust.htm|title=Clwyd-Powys Archaeological Trust - Projects - Historic Landscapes - Middle Wye - Administrative Landscapes|website=www.cpat.org.uk|access-date=2023-02-23|archive-date=2022-08-18|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220818010328/https://www.cpat.org.uk/projects/longer/histland/midwye/mwindust.htm|url-status=live}}</ref> and [[Llanidloes]].<ref>[{{Cite web|url=http://history.powys.org.uk/history/llani/flan1.html |title=Llanidloes History]- the flannel industry|website=history.powys.org.uk|access-date=2007-02-20|archive-date=2006-09-25|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060925102414/http://history.powys.org.uk/history/llani/flan1.html|url-status=live}}</ref> The expansion of its production is closely associated with the spread of [[carding]] mills, which prepared the wool for spinning, this being the first aspect of the production of woollen cloth to be mechanised (apart from [[fulling]]). The markettingmarketing of these [[Woollen industry in Wales|Welsh woollen]] clothes was largely controlled by the [[Draper]]sDrapers Company of [[Shrewsbury]].<ref>{{cite book|last=Dodd|first=A. H. Dodd, ''|title=Industrial Revolution in North Wales (|year=1931), 229-81;|pages=229–81}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last=Jenkins|first=J. Geraint Jenkins, ''|title=The Welsh Woollen Industry'' (|publisher=Cardiff |year=1969);}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last=Jenkins|first=J. Geraint|title=Montgomeryshire Jenkins,Collections|year=1963|volume=58 '|pages=50–69|chapter=The woollen industry in Montgomeryshire'}}</ref><!-- ''MontgomeryshrieBeing Collections''British 58 (1963)articles, 50-69.they use </refthe British spelling "woollen": please do not "correct" it to the American "woolen". -->

Flannel and flannelette can be woven in either a tight [[twill]] weave or a plain weave, although this is often obscured by [[nap|napping]] one or both sides. After weaving, it is napped once, then [[bleaching|bleached]], [[dyed]], or otherwise treated, and then napped a second time.

Flannel became popular in the United States during the Civil War, when it was imported as an inexpensive, sturdy material for soldiers’ basic coats and undershirts. American entrepreneur Hamilton Carhartt is most credited with popularizing flannel garments in the USA. He opened a flannel-focused textile plant, the first of its kind, in Detroit in 1889. It was during the years following this introduction that the American middle class adopted the flannel shirt as a workwear staple.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.heddels.com/2018/01/the-history-of-flannel-2/ |title=All About Flannel - Winter Fabric from Wales |date=4 January 2018 }}</ref>

==History==

Flannel was a well-known product of [[Wales]]. It has been made since the [[17th century]], having gradually replaced, as the local [[textile]] product, the older [[Welsh plains]], some of which were finished as 'cottons' or [[Frieze (textile)|frieze]]s. In the 19th century, it was made, particularly [[Montgomeryshire]] in towns such as [[Newtown, Montgomeryshire]]<ref>http://www.newtown.org.uk/history.htm Newtown History</ref>, [[Hay on Wye]],<ref>http://www.cpat.org.uk/projects/longer/histland/midwye/mwindust.htm</ref> and [[Llanidloes]]<ref>[http://history.powys.org.uk/history/llani/flan1.html Llanidloes History]</ref> The expansion of its production is closely associated with the spread of [[carding]] mills, which prepared the wool for spinning, this being the first aspect of the production of woollen cloth to be mechanised (apart from fulling). The marketting of these Welsh woollen clothes was largely controlled by the [[Draper]]s Company of [[Shrewsbury]].<ref>A. H. Dodd, ''Industrial Revolution in North Wales (1931), 229-81; J. Geraint Jenkins, ''The Welsh Woollen Industry'' (Cardiff 1969); J. Geraint Jenkins, 'The woollen industry in Montgomeryshire' ''Montgomeryshrie Collections'' 58 (1963), 50-69. </ref>

At one time, Welsh, Yorkshire, Lancashire, and Irish flannels differed slightly in character due largely to the grade of raw wool used, some being softer and finer than others. Dyes determine the flannel's color; this was achieved by mixing white, blue, brown, and black wools in varying proportions. Lighter shades were achieved by bleaching with [[sulphur dioxide#As a reducing agent|sulphur dioxide]].<ref name=concise/>

The origin of the word is uncertain, but a Welsh origin has been suggested. The French form ''fianelle'' was used late in the 17th century, and the German ''Flanell'' early in the 18th century.

[[File:Washer Woman skirt 1957 by Sybil Connolly.jpg|thumb|Red Flannel Skirt, designed by Sybil Connolly in 1957]]

[[Baize]], a kind of coarse flannel with a long nap, is said to have been first introduced to England about the middle of the 16th century by refugees from France and the Netherlands.

During the 1950s, Irish designer [[Sybil Connolly]], inspired by Aran Island and traditional Irish peasant skirts, designed a 'Red Flannel' skirt using red flannel wool.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Williams |first=Gabrielle |date=1996-10-25 |title=Clothes we still remember |url=https://www.irishtimes.com/news/clothes-from-when-we-still-remember-1.99277?mode=sample&auth-failed=1&pw-origin=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.irishtimes.com%2Fnews%2Fclothes-from-when-we-still-remember-1.99277 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220120202305/https://www.irishtimes.com/news/clothes-from-when-we-still-remember-1.99277?mode=sample&auth-failed=1&pw-origin=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.irishtimes.com%2Fnews%2Fclothes-from-when-we-still-remember-1.99277 |archive-date=20 January 2022 |access-date=20 January 2022 |website=Irish Times}}</ref>

Originally, flannel was made of fine, short [[staple (wool)|staple]] wool, but by the 20th century, mixtures of [[silk]] and [[cotton]] had become common. At this time, flannel trousers became popular in sports, especially cricket, and it was used extensively until the late 1970s. Flannel [[lumberjack shirt|plaid shirt]]s became popular teen wear in the early 1990s, being part of the [[grunge]] style of bands like [[Nirvana (band)|Nirvana]] and [[Pearl Jam]].<ref>{{Cite web |title=Manufacturing Platform for Apparel Industry {{!}} Fast & Sustainable - Fashinza |url=https://fashinza.com/fashion-designs/design-trends/90s-grunge-fashion-the-history-of-grunge-and-90s-fashion/ |access-date=2023-12-12 |website=fashinza.com |language=en}}</ref>

==Derivative uses of the word==

*[[Flannels]] (q.v.) are [[cricket]] attire, originally made of flannel, though now often of other cloth.

*In the United Kingdom and New Zealand, a flannel refers to a facecloth or washcloth, presumably having originally been made of flannel cloth.

*In colloquial British English, to flannel is to not answer a question. It is also used in the publishing industry to denote copy of low interest such as the flannel panel, which outlines who does what on a magazine.

==Types==

==Flannel in Pop Culture ==

{{Anchor|Flannelette}}'''Flannelette''' typically refers to a napped [[cotton]] fabric imitating the texture of flannel. The [[weft]] is generally coarser than the [[Warp (weaving)|warp]]. The flannel-like appearance is created by creating a nap from the weft; scratching it and raising it up. Flannelette can either have long or short nap, and can be napped on one or two sides. It comes in many colours, both solid and patterned.<ref name="1911EB">{{cite EB1911 |wstitle = Flannelette| volume=10 |page=481}}</ref>

In North America, flannelette, commonly referred to as flannel, was commonly thought to be the fabric of [[woodsmen]], [[lumberjack]]s, tough men and [[farmer]]s. Today it is commonly used for children's winter pajamas as well as pajama pants for adults.

'''Baby flannel''' is a lightweight fabric used for childrenswear.<ref>{{cite book|last=Lewandowski|first=Elizabeth J. Lewandowski; [illustrations by Dan|title=The complete costume dictionary|year=2011|publisher=Scarecrow Press, Inc.|___location=Lanham, Md.|isbn=9780810840041|pages=19|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=PeXfpsvFyysC&pg=PA19|access-date=2016-11-06|archive-date=2023-02-23|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230223011141/https://books.google.com/books?id=PeXfpsvFyysC&pg=PA19|url-status=live}}</ref>

In the US, due to the fact that many people in the [[Pacific Northwest]] (especially in [[Seattle, Washington]]) and [[Vancouver, British Columbia]] have had a tendency to wear it, flannel there has become associated with [[grungers]] and music. This idea was even further popularized by the fact that many rock, metal and, most notably, [[grunge]] musicians from the early 1990s often wore clothing made from it. In addition, flannel also became associated with [[G-Funk|West Coast]] [[gangsta rap]] for much of the 1990s. Flannel has been thought by some to be a [[fashion statement]] (or in some cases an anti-fashion statement), and has been more broadly associated with [[slacker]]s.

'''Cotton flannel''' or '''Canton flannel''' is a cotton fabric napped on one or two sides.

==Well-Known Flannel Wearers==

* Filmmaker [[George Lucas]], creator of the [[Star Wars]] saga.

'''Ceylon's flannel''' was a name for a wool and cotton mixture.<ref name=concise>''The Concise Household Encyclopedia'' (c. 1935) [[The Amalgamated Press]], London</ref>

* [[Jason Lee]]'s character [[Earl J. Hickey]] from the hit US comedy [[My Name Is Earl]]

* The character [[Al Borland]], from the TV series [[Home Improvement]]

'''Diaper flannel''' is a stout cotton fabric napped on both sides, and used for making cloth [[diapers]].

* The character [[Alex Mack (character)| Alex Mack]], from the TV series [[Alex Mack| The Secret World Of Alex Mack]].

* [[Neil Young]], guitar player, singer and songwriter

'''[[Vegetable flannel]]''', invented by Léopold Lairitz in Germany in the 1800s, uses fibres from the [[Pinus sylvestris|Scots pine]] rather than wool.<ref name=frank>{{cite journal|title=Vegetable Flannel|journal=Frank Leslie's Pleasant Hours |date=1869 |page=256 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=zF02AQAAMAAJ&pg=PA256}}</ref>

* Lead singer and guitarist from [[Nirvana (band)|Nirvana]], [[Kurt Cobain]]

* [[Eddie Vedder]], lead singer of [[Pearl Jam]]

==Weave==

* [[Mick Foley]] in the persona of Cactus Jack, a [[World Wrestling Entertainment|WWF/WWE]] hardcore wrestler who wears red flannel as part as ring attire

Flannel, flannelette, and flannelettecotton flannel can be woven in either a tight [[twill]] weave or a [[plain weave,]]. althoughThe thisweave is often obscuredhidden by [[nap|napping]] on one or both sides. After weaving, it is napped once, then [[bleaching|bleached]], [[dyed]], or otherwise treated, and then napped a second time.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Grosicki|first=Z|title=Watson's Textile Design and Colour|publisher=Elsevier Science|year=2014|isbn=9781782420088|pages=327}}</ref>

* Comic strip character [[Jeremy Duncan]] of [[Zits]] by [[Jerry Scott]] (writer) and [[Jim Borgman]] (artist)

* [[Rory Gallagher]], the [[Republic of Ireland|Irish]]-born [[blues]] [[guitarist]].

==See also==

* [[Duane Allman]], guitarist for [[The Allman Brothers Band]].

{{Portal|Fashion|1990s}}

* [[Mike Watt]], bassist for [[The Minutemen (band)|The Minutemen]], [[Firehose]], [[The Stooges]], and various other bands.

* [[Argyle (pattern)]]

* [[Check (pattern)]]

* [[Coldharbour Mill]] – [[worsted]] flannel museum

* [[Madras (cloth)]]

* [[Sherpa fabric]]

* [[Tartan]]

==References==

{{reflist|30em}}

<references/>

== External links ==

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* {{Commons category-inline|Flannel}}

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