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{{short description|Contemporary musical subculture}}
{{About|the subculture|the Germanic tribes|Goths|other uses|Gothic (disambiguation){{!}}Gothic}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=September 2020}}
{{Use Oxford spelling|date=October 2017}}
[[File:Lady Amaranth.jpg|thumb|upright|A gothic model pictured in June 2008]]
'''Goth''' is a music-based [[subculture]] that emerged in the United Kingdom in the late 1970s and early 1980s, crystallizing between 1979 and 1983 around venues such as London’s [[Batcave (club)|Batcave club]] (opened in 1982). The subculture developed around [[gothic rock]], a genre that evolved from [[post-punk]] while incorporating darker, more atmospheric elements. Key bands that shaped the early gothic sound and aesthetic include [[Bauhaus (band)|Bauhaus]], [[Siouxsie and the Banshees]], [[The Sisters of Mercy]], and [[the Cure]].<ref>{{cite encyclopedia|last1=James |first1=J. Veronica |editor1-last=Forsyth |editor1-first=Craig J. |editor2-last=Copes |editor2-first=Heith |title=Goth Subculture |encyclopedia=Encyclopedia of Social Deviance |date=2014 |volume=2 |pages=306-309 |doi=10.4135/9781483340470.n126 |publisher=[[Sage Publications, Inc]]}}</ref> Other post-punk acts like [[Joy Division]], while not strictly [[gothic rock]], influenced the movement's melancholic and introspective approach. The subculture also drew inspiration from [[glam rock]] artists such as [[David Bowie]] and from [[Gothic fiction|literary and cinematic gothic traditions]], including [[German expressionist cinema|German Expressionism]] and classic horror (from [[Universal Monsters]] to [[Hammer horror]]), with a flair for [[Theatrical style|theatricality]] and [[Camp (style)|camp]].
The goth subculture has survived much longer than others of the same era and has continued to diversify and spread throughout the world. Its imagery and cultural proclivities indicate influences from 19th-century [[Gothic fiction]] and from [[horror film]]s. The scene is centered on music festivals, nightclubs, and organized meetings, with major hubs in the [[UK]], [[Germany]] (particularly through the [[Neue Deutsche Todeskunst]] movement), and [[Eastern Europe]], where countries like [[Poland]] (Castle Party Festival), [[Czech Republic]], and [[Hungary]] developed distinctive local scenes. The subculture has associated tastes in music, aesthetics, and fashion.
The [[music]] preferred by goths includes a number of styles such as gothic rock, [[death rock]], [[Cold wave music|cold wave]], [[dark wave]], and [[ethereal wave]].<ref>Nym, Alexander: ''Schillerndes Dunkel. Geschichte, Entwicklung und Themen der Gothic-Szene'', Plöttner Verlag 2010, {{ISBN|3-862-11006-0}}, pp. 145−169</ref> Styles of dress within the subculture draw on [[punk fashion|punk]], new wave, and [[New Romantic]] fashion.<ref name="Wallraff">{{cite book|last1=Farin|first1=Klaus|last2=Wallraff|first2=Kirsten|last3=Archiv der Jugendkulturen e.V., Berlin|title=Die Gothics: Interviews, Fotografien|date=1999|publisher=Tilsner|___location=Bad Tölz|isbn=9783933773098| page=23|edition=Orig.-Ausg.}}</ref> It also draws from the fashion of earlier periods such as the [[Victorian fashion|Victorian]], [[1900s in Western fashion|Edwardian]], and [[Belle Époque]] eras. The style most often includes dark (usually solid black) attire, dark makeup, and black hair.
==Music==
{{main|Gothic rock}}
===Origins and development===
[[File:Sioux-edinburgh80.jpg|thumb|upright|[[Siouxsie Sioux]] of [[Siouxsie and the Banshees]] in 1980]]
The term ''[[gothic rock]]'' was coined by music critic John Stickney in 1967 to describe a meeting he had with [[Jim Morrison]] in a dimly lit wine-cellar, which he called "the perfect room to honor the Gothic rock of [[the Doors]]".<ref>{{cite news |newspaper=The Williams Record |date=24 October 1967 |author=John Stickney |title=Four Doors to the Future: Gothic Rock Is Their Thing}} Posted at {{cite web|url=http://mildequator.com/performancehistory/articlesreviews1967.html |title=The Doors : Articles & Reviews Year 1967 |work=Mildequator.com |access-date=3 October 2012 |quote="The Doors are not pleasant, amusing hippies proffering a grin and a flower; they wield a knife with a cold and terrifying edge. The Doors are closely akin to the national taste for violence, and the power of their music forces each listener to realize what violence is in himself".... "The Doors met New York for better or for worse at a press conference in the gloomy vaulted wine cellar of the Delmonico hotel, the perfect room to honor the Gothic rock of the Doors". |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130504231130/http://mildequator.com/performancehistory/articlesreviews1967.html |archive-date=4 May 2013}}</ref> That same year, the [[Velvet Underground]] song "[[All Tomorrow's Parties]]" created a kind of "mesmerizing gothic-rock masterpiece" according to music historian [[Kurt Loder]].<ref>{{cite book |last=Loder |first=Kurt |date=December 1984 |title=V.U. |publisher=Verve Records |type=album liner notes|title-link=VU (album) }}</ref> In the late 1970s, the ''gothic'' adjective was used to describe the atmosphere of [[post-punk]] bands such as [[Siouxsie and the Banshees]], [[Magazine (band)|Magazine]], and [[Joy Division]]. In a live review about a Siouxsie and the Banshees' concert in July 1978, critic [[Nick Kent]] wrote that, concerning their music, "[P]arallels and comparisons can now be drawn with gothic rock architects like the Doors and, certainly, early Velvet Underground".<ref name="Nick Kent">{{cite magazine|last=Kent|first=Nick|title= Banshees make the Breakthrough live review - London the Roundhouse 23 July 1978 |magazine=[[NME]] |date=29 July 1978}}</ref> In March 1979, in his review of Magazine's second album ''[[Secondhand Daylight]]'', Kent noted that there was "a new austere sense of authority" in the music, with a "dank neo-Gothic sound".<ref name=magazine>{{cite magazine|last=Kent|first=Nick|title=Magazine's Mad Minstrels Gains Momentum (Album review) |magazine=[[NME]]|date=31 March 1979|page= 31}}</ref> Later that year, the term was also used by Joy Division's manager, [[Tony Wilson]] on 15 September in an interview for the BBC TV programme's ''[[Something Else (UK TV series)|Something Else]]''. Wilson described Joy Division as "gothic" compared to the pop mainstream, right before a live performance of the band.<ref>{{cite web |title=Something Else [featuring Joy Division] |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMRZROGtm1Q | archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211211/QMRZROGtm1Q| archive-date=2021-12-11 | url-status=live|publisher=BBC television [archive added on youtube] |date=15 September 1979 |quote=Because it is unsettling, it is like sinister and gothic, it won't be played. [interview of Joy Division's manager Tony Wilson next to Joy Division's drummer Stephen Morris from 3:31]}}{{cbignore}}</ref> The term was later applied to "newer bands such as [[Bauhaus (band)|Bauhaus]] who had arrived in the wake of Joy Division and Siouxsie and the Banshees".{{sfn|Reynolds|2005|p=352}} Bauhaus's first single issued in 1979, "[[Bela Lugosi's Dead]]", is generally credited as the starting point of the gothic rock genre.{{sfn|Reynolds|2005|p=432}}
In 1979, ''Sounds'' described Joy Division as "Gothic" and "theatrical".<ref>{{cite journal |author=Des Moines |journal=Sounds |title=Live review by Des Moines (Joy Division Leeds) |date=26 October 1979 |quote=Curtis may project like an ambidextrous barman puging his physical hang-ups, but the 'Gothic dance music' he orchestrates is well-understood by those who recognise their New Wave frontiersmen and know how to dance the Joy Division! A theatrical sense of timing, controlled improvisation...}}</ref> In February 1980, ''[[Melody Maker]]'' qualified the same band as "masters of this Gothic gloom".<ref>{{cite journal |author=Bohn, Chris |title=Northern gloom: 2 Southern stomp: 1. (Joy Division: University of London Union – Live Review) |journal=Melody Maker |issue=16 February 1980 |quote=Joy Division are masters of this Gothic gloom}}</ref> Critic [[Jon Savage]] would later say that their singer [[Ian Curtis]] wrote "the definitive Northern Gothic statement".<ref>{{cite magazine |author=Savage, Jon|author-link=Jon Savage |url=http://www.rocksbackpages.com/article.html?ArticleID=3124 |title=Joy Division: Someone Take These Dreams Away |magazine=[[Mojo (magazine)|Mojo]] via [[Rock's Backpages]] (subscription required) |date=July 1994 |access-date=10 July 2014 |quote=a definitive Northern Gothic statement: guilt-ridden, romantic, claustrophobic}}</ref> However, it was not until the early 1980s that gothic rock became a coherent [[music subgenre]] within post-punk, and followers of these bands started to come together as a distinctly recognizable movement. They may have taken the "goth" mantle from a 1981 article published in UK rock weekly ''[[Sounds (magazine)|Sounds]]'': "The face of Punk Gothique",<ref name=keat>{{cite journal |first=Steve|last= Keaton |title=The Face of Punk Gothique |journal= Sounds |date= 21 February 1981}}</ref> written by Steve Keaton. In a text about the audience of [[UK Decay]], Keaton asked: "Could this be the coming of Punk Gothique? With Bauhaus flying in on similar wings could it be the next big thing?"<ref name=keat/> The [[F Club]] night in [[Leeds]] in Northern England, which had opened in 1977 firstly as a punk club, became instrumental to the development of the goth subculture in the 1980s.<ref name="Evolution of Goth Culture">{{cite book |last1=Spracklen |first1=Karl |last2=Spracklen |first2=Beverley |title=The Evolution of Goth Culture: The Origins and Deeds of the New Goths |publisher=Emerald Publishing |year=2018 |pages=46 |quote="The F-Club and the Futurama festival, both set up and run by Leeds promoter, John Keenan, have become entrenched in the shared memory of post-punks and goths as spaces where goth rock was born in the form it is now known."}}<br />{{cite web |last1=Stewart |first1=Ethan |title=How Leeds Led Goth |url=https://www.popmatters.com/leeds-goth-2649733682.html |website=[[PopMatters]] |date=13 January 2021 |access-date=3 June 2021 }}<br />{{cite web |last1=Deboick |first1=Sophia |title=A City in Music - Leeds: Goth ground zero |url=https://www.theneweuropean.co.uk/brexit-news/city-in-music-leeds-68820 |website=[[The New European]] |date=17 September 2020 |access-date=3 June 2021 |archive-date=22 January 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210122232818/https://www.theneweuropean.co.uk/brexit-news/city-in-music-leeds-68820 |url-status=dead }}</ref> In July 1982, the opening of the [[Batcave (club)|Batcave]]<ref>{{cite news|last=Johnson|first=David|date=February 1983|title=69 Dean Street: The Making of Club Culture|page=26|work=The Face|issue=34|url=https://shapersofthe80s.com/clubbing/69-dean-street-and-the-making-of-uk-club-culture/|access-date=2018-04-07}}</ref> in [[London]]'s [[Soho]] provided a prominent meeting point for the emerging scene, which would be briefly labelled "positive punk" by the ''NME'' in a special issue with a front cover in early 1983.<ref name=north>{{cite magazine |author=North, Richard |title=Punk Warriors |magazine=[[NME]] |date= 19 February 1983}}</ref> The term ''Batcaver'' was then used to describe old-school goths.
[[File:Bauhaus concert.jpg|thumb|[[Bauhaus (band)|Bauhaus]]—Live in concert, 3 February 2006]]
Outside the British scene, [[deathrock]] developed in [[California]] during the late 1970s and early 1980s as a distinct branch of American [[punk rock]], with acts such as [[Christian Death]], [[Kommunity FK]] and [[45 Grave]] at the forefront.<ref>{{cite news |first=Liz |last=Ohanesian |title=The LA Deathrock Starter Guide |newspaper=LA Weekly |date=4 November 2009 |url=http://www.laweekly.com/westcoastsound/2009/11/04/the-la-deathrock-starter-guide |access-date=10 July 2014 |archive-date=14 July 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140714221207/http://www.laweekly.com/westcoastsound/2009/11/04/the-la-deathrock-starter-guide |url-status=dead }}</ref>
===Gothic
The bands that defined and embraced the gothic rock genre included Bauhaus,{{sfn|Reynolds|2005|p=429}} early [[Adam and the Ants]],{{sfn|Reynolds|2005|p=421}} [[the Cure]],<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.allmusic.com/album/pornography-mw0000199022 |title=''Pornography'' – The Cure : Songs, Reviews, Credits, Awards : AllMusic |last=Mason |first=Stewart |work=[[AllMusic]] |access-date=27 October 2012}}</ref> [[The Birthday Party (band)|the Birthday Party]],{{sfn|Reynolds|2005|p=431}} [[Southern Death Cult]], [[Specimen (band)|Specimen]], [[Sex Gang Children]], [[UK Decay]], [[Virgin Prunes]], [[Killing Joke]], and [[The Damned (band)|the Damned]].{{sfn|Reynolds|2005|p=435}} Near the peak of this first generation of the gothic scene in 1983, ''[[The Face (magazine)|The Face]]''{{'s}} [[Paul Rambali]] recalled that there were "several strong Gothic characteristics" in the music of Joy Division.<ref>{{cite journal |author=Rambali, Paul |title=A Rare Glimpse into A Private World |journal=The Face |issue=July 1983 |quote=Curtis' death wrapped an already mysterious group in legend. From the press eulogies, you would think Curtis had gone to join Chatterton, Rimbaud and Morrison in the hallowed hall of premature harvests. To a group with several strong Gothic characteristics was added a further piece of romance.}}</ref> In 1984, Joy Division's bassist [[Peter Hook]] named [[Play Dead (band)|Play Dead]] as one of their heirs: "If you listen to a band like Play Dead, who I really like, Joy Division played the same stuff that Play Dead are playing. They're similar."<ref>{{cite magazine |author=Houghton, Jayne |title= Crime Pays! |magazine=[[ZigZag (magazine)|ZigZag]] |date= June 1984 |page=21}}</ref>
[[File:The Cure Live in Singapore - 1st August 2007.jpg|thumb|upright|Lead singer and guitarist [[Robert Smith (musician)|Robert Smith]] of [[the Cure]]]]
By the mid-1980s, bands began proliferating and became increasingly popular, including [[the Sisters of Mercy]], [[The Mission (band)|the Mission]], [[Alien Sex Fiend]], [[the March Violets]], [[Xmal Deutschland]], [[the Membranes]], and [[Fields of the Nephilim]]. Record labels like [[Factory Records|Factory]], [[4AD]] and [[Beggars Banquet Records|Beggars Banquet]] released much of this music in Europe, and through a vibrant import music market in the US, the subculture grew, especially in [[New York City|New York]] and [[Los Angeles, California]], where many nightclubs featured "gothic/industrial" nights and bands like [[Black Tape for a Blue Girl]], [[Theatre of Ice]], [[Human Drama]] and [[The Wake (American band)|The Wake]] became key figures for the genre to expand on an nationwide level.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://losangeleno.com/strange-days/goth-nights-los-angeles/|title=Dark Nights: Goth Didn't Die in the '80s — It's Multiplied|date=1 November 2019|website=Los Angeleno|access-date=21 January 2023|archive-date=21 January 2023|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230121203733/https://losangeleno.com/strange-days/goth-nights-los-angeles/|url-status=dead}}</ref> The popularity of 4AD bands resulted in the creation of similar US labels, such as [[Wax Trax! Records]] and [[Projekt Records|Projekt]].
The 1990s saw further growth for some 1980s bands and the emergence of many new acts, as well as new goth-centric U.S. record labels such as [[Cleopatra Records]], among others. According to Dave Simpson of ''[[The Guardian]]'', "[I]n the 90s, goths all but disappeared as [[dance music]] became the dominant youth cult".<ref name="theguardian.com">{{cite news |last=Simpson |first=Dave |date=29 September 2006 |title=Back in black: Goth has risen from the dead - and the 1980s pioneers are (naturally) not happy about it |url=https://www.theguardian.com/music/2006/sep/29/popandrock |work=[[The Guardian]] |access-date=26 October 2022}}</ref> As a result, the goth movement went underground and fractured into [[Cybergoth|cyber goth]], [[shock rock]], [[industrial metal]], [[gothic metal]], and Medieval folk metal.<ref name="theguardian.com" /> [[Marilyn Manson]] was seen as a "goth-shock icon" by ''[[Spin (magazine)|Spin]]''.<ref>{{citation |last=Klosterman |first=Chuck |date=June 2003 |title=Who: Marilyn Manson |work=[[Spin (magazine)|Spin]]}}</ref>
==Art, historical and cultural influences==
The Goth subculture of the 1980s drew inspiration from a variety of sources. Some of them were modern or contemporary, others were centuries-old or ancient. Michael Bibby and Lauren M. E. Goodlad liken the subculture to a [[bricolage]].{{sfn|Goodlad|Bibby|2007}} Among the music-subcultures that influenced it were [[Punk subculture|punk]], [[New wave music|new wave]], and [[Glam rock|glam]].{{sfn|Goodlad|Bibby|2007}} But it also drew inspiration from [[B-movie]]s, [[Gothic fiction|Gothic literature]], [[horror film]]s, [[Vampire lifestyle|vampire cults]] and traditional [[mythology]]. Among the mythologies that proved influential in Goth were [[Celtic mythology]], [[Christian mythology]], [[Egyptian mythology]], and various traditions of [[Paganism]].{{sfn|Goodlad|Bibby|2007}}
The figures that the movement counted among its historic canon of ancestors were equally diverse. They included the [[Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood]], [[Friedrich Nietzsche]] (1844‒1900), [[Comte de Lautréamont]] (1846‒1870), [[Salvador Dalí]] (1904‒1989) and [[Jean-Paul Sartre]] (1905‒1980).{{sfn|Goodlad|Bibby|2007}} Writers that have had a significant influence on the movement also represent a diverse canon. They include [[Ann Radcliffe]] (1764‒1823), [[John William Polidori]] (1795‒1821), [[Edgar Allan Poe]] (1809‒1849), [[Sheridan Le Fanu]] (1814-1873), [[Bram Stoker]] (1847‒1912), [[Oscar Wilde]] (1854‒1900), [[H. P. Lovecraft]] (1890‒1937), [[Anne Rice]] (1941‒2021), [[William Gibson]] (1948‒), [[Ian McEwan]] (1948‒), [[Storm Constantine]] (1956‒2021), and [[Poppy Z. Brite]] (1967‒).{{sfn|Goodlad|Bibby|2007}}
===18th and 19th centuries===
[[File:Frontispiece to Frankenstein 1831.jpg|thumb|[[Mary Shelley]]'s ''[[Frankenstein; or, The Modern Prometheus]]'' (1818) has come to define Gothic fiction in the [[Romanticism|Romantic period]]. [[Book frontispiece|Frontispiece]] to 1831 edition shown.]]
[[Gothic literature]] is a genre of fiction that combines romance and dark elements to produce mystery, suspense, terror, horror and the supernatural. According to David H. Richter, settings were framed to take place at "...ruinous castles, gloomy churchyards, claustrophobic monasteries, and lonely mountain roads". Typical characters consisted of the cruel parent, sinister priest, courageous victor, and the helpless heroine, along with supernatural figures such as [[demon]]s, [[vampire]]s, [[ghost]]s, and [[monster]]s. Often, the plot focused on characters ill-fated, internally conflicted, and innocently victimized by harassing malicious figures. In addition to the dismal plot focuses, the literary tradition of the gothic was to also focus on individual characters that were gradually going insane.{{sfn|Richter|1987}}
English author [[Horace Walpole]], with his 1764 novel ''[[The Castle of Otranto]]'' is one of the first writers who explored this genre. The [[American Revolutionary War]]-era "American Gothic" story of the [[Headless Horseman (Legend of Sleepy Hollow)|Headless Horseman]], immortalized in "[[The Legend of Sleepy Hollow]]" (published in 1820) by [[Washington Irving]], marked the arrival in the New World of dark, romantic storytelling. The tale was composed by Irving while he was living in England, and was based on popular tales told by colonial Dutch settlers of the [[Hudson Valley]], [[New York (state)|New York]]. The story would be [[The Headless Horseman (1922 film)|adapted to film in 1922]],{{sfn|Koszarski|1994|p=140}} in 1949 as the animated ''[[The Adventures of Ichabod and Mr. Toad]]'',<ref>"The American Film Institute, catalog of motion pictures, Volume 1, Part 1, Feature films 1941-1950, The Adventures of Ichabod and Mr Toad"</ref> and again in 1999.<ref>{{cite news | author = Roger Ebert | url = http://rogerebert.suntimes.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/19991119/REVIEWS/911190303 | title = Sleepy Hollow | work = [[Chicago Sun-Times]] | date = 19 November 1999 | access-date = 1 November 2010 | author-link = Roger Ebert | archive-date = 22 July 2012 | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20120722194140/http://rogerebert.suntimes.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/19991119/REVIEWS/911190303 | url-status = dead }}</ref>
Throughout the evolution of the goth subculture, classic Romantic, Gothic and horror literature has played a significant role. [[E. T. A. Hoffmann]] (1776–1822), [[Edgar Allan Poe]]<ref name="Simpson">{{cite news |first=Dave |last=Simpson |title= Back in black: Goth has risen from the dead - and the 1980s pioneers are (naturally) not happy about it |newspaper=The Guardian |date= 29 September 2006 |url=https://www.theguardian.com/music/2006/sep/29/popandrock |access-date= 14 July 2014}} "Severin admits his band ([[Siouxsie and the Banshees]]) pored over gothic literature - [[Edgar Allan Poe]] and [[Charles Baudelaire]]".</ref> (1809–1849), [[Charles Baudelaire]] (1821–1867),<ref name="Simpson"/> [[H. P. Lovecraft]] (1890–1937), and other tragic and Romantic writers have become as emblematic of the subculture{{sfn|Goodlad|Bibby|2007|p=14}} as the use of dark eyeliner or dressing in black. Baudelaire, in fact, in his preface to ''[[Les Fleurs du mal]]'' (''Flowers of Evil'') penned lines that could serve as a sort of goth malediction:{{sfn|Kilpatrick|2004|p=210}}
<blockquote><poem>''C'est l'Ennui! —l'œil chargé d'un pleur involontaire,''
''Il rêve d'échafauds en fumant son houka.''
''Tu le connais, lecteur, ce monstre délicat,''
''—Hypocrite lecteur,—mon semblable,—mon frère!''
It is Boredom! — an eye brimming with an involuntary tear,
He dreams of the gallows while smoking his water-pipe.
You know him, reader, this delicate monster,
—Hypocrite reader,—my twin,—my brother!</poem></blockquote>
====Visual art influences====
[[File:John Everett Millais - Ophelia - Google Art Project.jpg|thumb|''[[Ophelia (painting)|Ophelia]]'' (1851) by [[John Everett Millais]]]]
The gothic subculture has influenced different artists—not only musicians—but also painters and photographers. In particular their work is based on mystic, morbid and romantic motifs. In photography and painting the spectrum varies from erotic artwork to romantic images of vampires or ghosts. There is a marked preference for dark colours and sentiments, similar to Gothic fiction. At the end of the 19th century, painters like [[John Everett Millais]] and [[John Ruskin (painting)|John Ruskin]] invented a new kind of Gothic.{{sfn|Spuybroek|2011|p=42}}
===20th century influences===
{{Expand section|date=October 2017}}
Some people credit [[Screamin' Jay Hawkins|Jalacy "Screamin' Jay" Hawkins]], perhaps best known for his 1956 song "[[I Put a Spell on You|I Put A Spell on You]]," as a foundation of modern goth style and music.{{sfn|Kilpatrick|2004|p=88}} Some people credit the band Bauhaus' first single "[[Bela Lugosi's Dead]]", released in August 1979, with the start of goth subculture.{{sfn|Reynolds|2005|p=432}}
===21st century===
{{Expand section|date=October 2017}}
The [[British sitcom]] ''[[The IT Crowd]]'' featured a recurring goth character named [[List of The IT Crowd characters#Richmond Avenal|Richmond Avenal]], played by [[Noel Fielding]]. Fielding said in an interview that he himself had been a goth at age fifteen and that he had a series of goth girlfriends. This was the first time he dabbled in makeup. Fielding said that he loved his girlfriends dressing him up.<ref>[https://www.theguardian.com/culture/2013/feb/01/noel-fielding-interview Noel Fielding: rocking a new look]. ''The Guardian''. Author - Simon Hattenstone. Published 1 February 2013. Retrieved 28 July 2017.</ref>
The game [[Visigoths vs. Mall Goths]] (2020) by [[Lucian Kahn]] is about "two versions of Goths - the ancient Roman peoples and the black-clad teenagers" and is set in LA in the 1990s.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2022-06-06 |title=Queer Games Bundle strives to earn a living wage for marginalized artists in the tabletop RPG space |url=https://www.dicebreaker.com/topics/bundle/news/queer-games-bundle-2022-itchio |access-date=2023-03-25 |website=Dicebreaker |language=en}}</ref>
==Characteristics of the scene==
===Icons===
Goth icons include several bandleaders: [[Siouxsie Sioux]], of Siouxsie and the Banshees; [[Robert Smith (musician)|Robert Smith]], of the Cure; [[Peter Murphy (musician)|Peter Murphy]], of Bauhaus; [[Dave Vanian]], of The Damned; [[Rozz Williams]], of Christian Death; Olli Wisdom, leader of the band [[Specimen (band)|Specimen]]<ref>{{cite news| url=https://shapersofthe80s.com/clubbing/69-dean-street-and-the-making-of-uk-club-culture/ | work=The Face (issue 34, page 26, republished at Shapersofthe80s.com)| first=David | last=Johnson | title= 69 Dean Street: The Making of Club Culture | date=1983-02-01 |access-date=2018-04-07}}</ref> and keyboardist Jonathan Melton aka Jonny Slut, who evolved the [[Batcave (club)|Batcave]] style.<ref>Harriman, Andi; Bontje, Marloes: ''Some Wear Leather, Some Wear Lace. The Worldwide Compendium of Post Punk and Goth in the 1980s'', Intellect Books 2014, {{ISBN|1-783-20352-8}}, p. 66</ref> [[Nick Cave]] was dubbed as "the grand lord of gothic lushness".<ref>{{cite web |first=Jenny |last=Stevens |url=https://www.nme.com/reviews/nick-cave-and-the-bad-seeds/14083#6mWxcBmKK4eyCeDd.99 |title=Push The Sky Away |work= NME |date=15 February 2013 |access-date=21 February 2013}}</ref>
===Fashion===
====Influences====
One female role model is [[Theda Bara]], the 1910s [[femme fatale]] known for her dark eyeshadow.<ref>{{harvnb|Hannaham|1997|p=93}}</ref><ref name="steele26">{{harvnb|Steele|Park|2008|p=26}}</ref> In 1977, [[Karl Lagerfeld]] hosted the Soirée Moratoire Noir party, specifying "tenue tragique noire absolument obligatoire" (black tragic dress absolutely required).<ref name=steele35>{{harvnb|Steele|Park|2008|p=35}}</ref> The event included elements associated with [[leather subculture|leatherman]] style.<ref name=steele35/>
[[Siouxsie Sioux]] was particularly influential on the dress style of the [[gothic rock]] scene; [[Paul Morley]] of ''[[NME]]'' described [[Siouxsie and the Banshees]]' 1980 gig at Futurama: "[Siouxsie was] modeling her newest outfit, the one that will influence how all the girls dress over the next few months. About half the girls at Leeds had used Sioux as a basis for their appearance, hair to ankle".<ref>Reynolds, p. 425.</ref> [[Robert Smith (musician)|Robert Smith]],<ref>{{harvnb|Hannaham|1997|p=113}}</ref> [[Musidora]], [[Bela Lugosi]],<ref>{{harvnb|Steele|Park|2008|p=18}}</ref> [[Bettie Page]], [[Maila Nurmi|Vampira]], [[Morticia Addams]],<ref name=steele26/> [[Nico]], [[Rozz Williams]], [[David Bowie]]<ref name=grunenberg2/> and [[Lux Interior]]<ref name=grunenberg2/> are also style icons.
The 1980s established designers such as [[Drew Bernstein|Drew Bernstein of Lip Service]], and the 1990s saw a surge of US-based [[gothic fashion]] designers, many of whom continue to evolve the style to the present day. Style magazines such as ''[[Gothic Beauty]]'' have given repeat features to a select few gothic fashion designers who began their labels in the 1990s, such as Kambriel, [[Rose Mortem]], and Tyler Ondine of Heavy Red.<ref>{{cite magazine |title=Home |editor-last=Holiday |editor-first=Steven |date= 12 December 2014 |magazine= Gothic Beauty |url=https://www.gothicbeauty.com |___location= Portland, OR |publisher=Holiday Media |access-date= 12 December 2014}}</ref>
====Styling====
[[File:Gothic girl.jpg|thumb|180px|A woman dressed in goth style in the 1980's]]
It is generally agreed that, as goth is a music-based subculture, it is not necessary for one to dress in stereotypical 'goth fashion' to be identified as goth, providing one listens to goth music. However, many goths prefer to dress this way. Gothic fashion is marked by conspicuously dark, antiquated and homogeneous features. It is stereotyped as eerie, mysterious, complex and exotic.<ref name= lr>{{cite news |author=La Ferla, Ruth |title=Embrace the Darkness |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2005/10/30/fashion/sundaystyles/30GOTH.html |work=The New York Times |date=30 October 2005 |access-date=25 January 2012}}</ref> A dark, sometimes morbid fashion and style of [[clothing|dress]],<ref name="grunenberg2">{{harvnb|Grunenberg|1997|p=172}}</ref> typical gothic fashion includes [[Hair colouring|colored]] black hair and black period-styled clothing.<ref name="grunenberg2" /> Both male and female goths can wear dark [[Eye liner|eyeliner]] and dark fingernail polish, most especially black. Styles are often borrowed from [[punk fashion]] and—more currently—from the [[Victorian fashion|Victorian]] and [[1550–1600 in Western European fashion#Elizabethan Style|Elizabethan]] periods.<ref name=grunenberg2/> It also frequently expresses pagan, occult or other [[religious symbolism|religious imagery]].<ref name = "ELipton1">Eric Lipton [http://www.lettuce.org/clipGoff.htm Disturbed Shooters Weren't True Goth] from the Chicago Tribune, 27 April 1999</ref> Gothic fashion and styling may also feature [[silver]] jewelry and piercings.
[[Ted Polhemus]] described goth fashion as a "profusion of black velvets, lace, fishnets and leather tinged with scarlet or purple, accessorized with tightly laced corsets, gloves, precarious stilettos and silver jewelry depicting religious or occult themes".<ref>{{cite book |last=Polhemus |first=Ted |author-link=Ted Polhemus |year=1994 |title=Street Style |___location=London |publisher=Thames & Hudson |page=97}} Cited in {{harvnb|Mellins|2013|pp=17–18}}.</ref> Of the male "goth look", goth historian Pete Scathe draws a distinction between the Sid Vicious archetype of black spiky hair and black leather jacket in contrast to the gender ambiguous individuals wearing makeup. The first is the early goth gig-going look, which was essentially punk, whereas the second evolved into the Batcave nightclub look. Early goth gigs were often very hectic affairs, and the audience dressed accordingly.
In contrast to the [[Live action role-playing game#Genres|LARP]]-based Victorian and Elizabethan pomposity of the 2000s, the more Romantic side of 1980s trad-goth—mainly represented by women—was characterized by new wave/post-punk-oriented hairstyles (both long and short, partly shaved and teased) and street-compliant clothing, including black frill blouses, midi dresses or tea-length skirts, and floral lace tights, [[Dr. Martens]], spike heels (pumps), and pointed toe buckle boots ([[winklepickers]]), sometimes supplemented with accessories such as bracelets, chokers and bib necklaces. This style, retroactively referred to as ''Ethergoth'', took its inspiration from Siouxsie Sioux and mid-1980s musicians from the 4AD roster like [[Elizabeth Fraser]] and [[Lisa Gerrard]].<ref>Aurelio Voltaire Hernandez: ''What Is Goth?'', Publishers Group UK, {{ISBN|1-578-63322-2}}<br />''"Serene, thoughtful and creative, ethergoths are defined by their affinity ... darkwave and classically inspired Gothic music. Ethergoths are more likely to be found sipping tea, writing poetry and listening to the Cocteau Twins than jumping up and down at a club."''</ref>
''[[The New York Times]]'' noted: "The costumes and ornaments are a glamorous cover for the genre's somber themes. In the world of Goth, nature itself lurks as a malign protagonist, causing flesh to rot, rivers to flood, monuments to crumble and women to turn into slatterns, their hair streaming and lipstick askew".<ref name= lr/>
Cintra Wilson declares that the origins of the dark romantic style are found in the "[[Victorian fashion|Victorian]] cult of mourning."<ref name="cintra">{{cite news |last=Wilson |first=Cintra |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2008/09/18/fashion/18GOTH.html |title=You just can't kill it |work=[[The New York Times]] |date=17 September 2008 |access-date=18 September 2008}}</ref> [[Valerie Steele]] is an expert in the history of the style.<ref name="cintra" />
====Reciprocity====
Goth fashion has a reciprocal relationship with the fashion world. In the later part of the first decade of the 21st century, designers such as [[Alexander McQueen]],<ref name="cintra" /><ref name=grunenberg/><ref name=steele3>{{harvnb|Steele|Park|2008|p=3}}</ref> [[Anna Sui]],<ref>{{cite book |last=Bolton |first=Andrew |author-link=Andrew Bolton (curator) |date=2013 |title=Anna Sui |url= https://books.google.com/books?id=veh5m5QdWL8C&q=anna+sui |___location=New York |publisher=Chronicle Books |pages=100–109 |isbn=978-1452128597 |via=Google Books}}</ref> [[Rick Owens]],<ref name=steele3/> [[Gareth Pugh]], [[Ann Demeulemeester]], [[Philipp Plein]], [[Hedi Slimane]], [[John Richmond (fashion designer)|John Richmond]], [[John Galliano]],<ref name="cintra" /><ref name=grunenberg/><ref name=steele3/> [[Olivier Theyskens]]<ref name=steele3/><ref name="laferla">La Ferla, Ruth: "Embrace the Darkness". ''New York Times'', 30 October 2005. [https://www.nytimes.com/2005/10/30/fashion/sundaystyles/30GOTH.html]
</ref> and [[Yohji Yamamoto]]<ref name=steele3/> brought elements of goth to runways.<ref name="cintra" /> This was described as "Haute Goth" by Cintra Wilson in the ''New York Times''.<ref name="cintra" />
[[Thierry Mugler]], [[Claude Montana]], [[Jean Paul Gaultier]]<ref name= lr/> and [[Christian Lacroix]] have also been associated with the fashion trend.<ref name="cintra" /><ref name=grunenberg>{{harvnb|Grunenberg|1997|p=173}}</ref> In Spring 2004, [[Riccardo Tisci]], Jean Paul Gaultier, [[Raf Simons]] and [[Stefano Pilati]] dressed their models as "glamorous ghouls dressed in form-fitting suits and coal-tinted cocktail dresses".<ref name=laferla/> Swedish designer Helena Horstedt and jewelry artist Hanna Hedman also practice a goth aesthetic.<ref>Johanna Lenander, "Swede and Sour: Scandinavian Goth," ''New York Times: T Magazine'', 27 March 2009. [http://themoment.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/03/27/swede-and-sour-scandinavian-goth/?hpw] Access date: 29 March 2009.</ref>
===Films and television===
{{main|Gothic film}}
{{more citations needed section|date=June 2016}}
[[File:The Hunger film poster.jpg|thumb|upright=0.9|Film poster for ''[[The Hunger (1983 film)|The Hunger]]'', an influence in the early days of the goth subculture{{sfn|Ladouceur|2011|pp=137–138}}]]
Some of the early gothic rock and deathrock artists adopted traditional horror film images and drew on horror film soundtracks for inspiration. Their audiences responded by adopting appropriate dress and props. Use of standard horror film props such as swirling smoke, rubber bats, and cobwebs featured as gothic club décor from the beginning in The Batcave. Such references in bands' music and images were originally [[tongue-in-cheek]], but as time went on, bands and members of the subculture took the connection more seriously. As a result, morbid, [[supernatural]] and [[occult]] themes became more noticeably serious in the subculture. The interconnection between horror and goth was highlighted in its early days by ''[[The Hunger (1983 film)|The Hunger]]'', a 1983 vampire film starring [[David Bowie]], [[Catherine Deneuve]] and [[Susan Sarandon]]. The film featured gothic rock group Bauhaus performing ''Bela Lugosi's Dead'' in a nightclub. [[Tim Burton]] created a storybook atmosphere filled with darkness and shadow in some of his films like ''[[Beetlejuice]]'' (1988), ''[[Batman (1989 film)|Batman]]'' (1989), ''[[Edward Scissorhands]]'' (1990), ''[[Batman Returns]]'' (1992) and the [[stop motion]] films ''[[The Nightmare Before Christmas]]'' (1993), which was produced/co-written by Burton, and ''[[Corpse Bride]]'' (2005), which he co-produced. The [[Nickelodeon]] cartoon ''[[Invader Zim]]'' is also based on the goth subculture.
As the subculture became well-established, the connection between goth and horror fiction became almost a cliché, with goths quite likely to appear as characters in horror novels and film. For example, ''[[The Craft (film)|The Craft]]'', ''[[The Crow (franchise)|The Crow]]'', ''[[The Matrix (franchise)|The Matrix]]'' and ''[[Underworld (film series)|Underworld]]'' film series drew directly on goth music and style. The dark comedies ''[[Beetlejuice]]'', ''[[The Faculty (film)|The Faculty]]'', ''[[American Beauty (1999 film)|American Beauty]]'', ''[[Wedding Crashers]]'', and a few episodes of the animated TV show ''[[South Park]]'' portray or parody the goth subculture. In ''South Park'', several of the fictional schoolchildren are depicted as goths. The goth kids on the show are depicted as finding it annoying to be confused with the [[Hot Topic]] "[[Vampire lifestyle|vampire]]" kids from the episode "[[The Ungroundable]]" in season 12,<ref>Modell, Josh (19 November 2008). "The Ungroundable". ''The A.V. Club''.</ref><ref>Fickett, Travis (20 November 2008). "IGN: The Ungroundable Review". IGN. News Corporation. Retrieved 2008-11-23.</ref> and even more frustrating to be compared with [[emo]] kids. The goth kids are usually depicted listening to gothic music, writing or reading Gothic poetry, drinking coffee, flipping their hair, and smoking.<ref>{{cite web|first=Josh|last=Modell|title=The Ungroundable|website=[[The A.V. Club]]|url=https://www.avclub.com/south-park-the-ungroundable-1798205248|date=November 19, 2008|accessdate=29 January 2022}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=https://southpark.cc.com/fans/faq/archives.php?id=16431 |title=FAQ Archives: Why aren't the goth kids in the class w/ the rest of the kids when they show them all at their desk? |access-date=2008-11-23 |date=2004-05-06 |work=South Park Studios |archive-date=6 March 2009 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090306191502/http://www.southparkstudios.com/fans/faq/archives.php?id=16431 |url-status=dead }}</ref>
[[Morticia Addams]] from [[The Addams Family]] created by [[Charles Addams]] is a fictional character and the mother in the Addams Family. Morticia was played by [[Carolyn Jones]] in the 1964 television show [[The Addams Family (1964 TV series)|''The Addams Family'']] and by [[Anjelica Huston]] in the [[The Addams Family (1991 film)|1991 version]], and voiced by [[Charlize Theron]] in [[The Addams Family (2019 film)|2019 animated film]].
A recurring sketch in the 1990s on NBC's ''[[Saturday Night Live]]'' was ''Goth Talk'', in which a public access channel broadcast hosted by unpopular young goths would continually be interrupted by the more "normal" kids in school. The sketch featured series regulars [[Will Ferrell]], [[Molly Shannon]], and [[Chris Kattan]].
===Books and magazines===
{{Main|Gothic fiction}}
A prominent American literary influence on the gothic scene was provided by [[Anne Rice]]'s re-imagining of the vampire in 1976. In ''[[The Vampire Chronicles]]'', Rice's characters were depicted as self-tormentors who struggled with alienation, loneliness, and the human condition. Not only did the characters torment themselves, but they also depicted a surreal world that focused on uncovering its splendour. These Chronicles assumed goth attitudes, but they were not intentionally created to represent the gothic subculture. Their romance, beauty, and erotic appeal attracted
many goth readers, making her works popular from the 1980s through the 1990s.{{sfn|Jones|2015|pp=179–204}} While Goth has embraced [[Vampire literature]] both in its 19th century form and in its later incarnations, Rice's [[Postmodernism|postmodern]] take on the vampire mythos has had a "special resonance" in the subculture. Her vampire novels feature intense emotions, period clothing, and "cultured decadence". Her vampires are [[social alienation|socially alienated]] monsters, but they are also stunningly attractive. Rice's goth readers tend to envision themselves in much the same terms and view characters like [[Lestat de Lioncourt]] as [[role model]]s.{{sfn|Goodlad|Bibby|2007}}
[[Richard Wright (author)|Richard Wright]]'s novel ''[[Native Son]]'' contains gothic imagery and themes that demonstrate the links between blackness and the gothic; themes and images of "premonitions, curses, prophecies, spells, veils, demonic possessions, graves, skeletons" are present, suggesting gothic influence.<ref name=":1">{{Cite journal|last=Smethurst|first=James|date=Spring 2001|title=Invented by Horror: The Gothic and African American Literary Ideology in Native Son|journal=African American Review|volume=35|issue=1|pages=29–30|doi=10.2307/2903332|jstor=2903332}}</ref> Other classic themes of the gothic are present in the novel, such as transgression and unstable identities of race, class, gender, and nationality.<ref name=":1" />
The re-imagining of the vampire continued with the release of [[Poppy Z. Brite]]'s book ''[[Lost Souls (Poppy Z. Brite novel)|Lost Souls]]'' in October 1992. Despite the fact that Brite's first novel was criticized by some mainstream sources for allegedly "lack[ing] a moral center: neither terrifyingly malevolent supernatural creatures nor (like Anne Rice's protagonists) tortured souls torn between good and evil, these vampires simply add blood-drinking to the amoral panoply of drug abuse, problem drinking and empty sex practiced by their human counterparts",<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.publishersweekly.com/978-0-385-30875-5 |title=Fiction Book Review: Lost Souls by Poppy Z. Brite |work=publishersweekly.com|date=31 August 1992 |access-date=18 March 2012}}</ref> many of these so-called "human counterparts" identified with the teen angst and goth music references therein, keeping the book in print. Upon release of a special 10th anniversary edition of ''Lost Souls'', ''[[Publishers Weekly]]''—the same periodical that criticized the novel's "amorality" a decade prior—deemed it a "modern horror classic" and acknowledged that Brite established a "cult audience".<ref>{{cite web |title=Fiction review: The American Fantasy Tradition by Brian M. Thomsen |url=http://www.publishersweekly.com/978-0-7653-0152-9 |work=publishersweekly.com |date=1 September 2002 |access-date=18 March 2012}}</ref>
The 2002 release ''21st Century Goth'' by [[Mick Mercer]], an author, noted music journalist and leading historian of gothic rock,<ref>Blu [http://www.starvox.net/intview/mm.htm Interview with Mick Mercer] Starvox.net</ref><ref>Kyshah Hell [http://www.morbidoutlook.com/lifestyle/articles/2002_06_mickmercer.html Interview with Mick Mercer] Morbidoutlook.com</ref><ref>[http://www.brokenanklebooks.com/AuthorsMercer.htm Mick Mercer] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070409035909/http://brokenanklebooks.com/AuthorsMercer.htm |date=9 April 2007 }} Broken Ankle Books</ref> explored the modern state of the goth scene around the world, including [[South America]], [[Japan]], and mainland [[Asia]]. His previous 1997 release, ''Hex Files: The Goth Bible'', similarly took an international look at the subculture.
In the US, ''[[Propaganda (magazine)|Propaganda]]'' was a gothic subculture magazine founded in 1982. In Italy, ''Ver Sacrum'' covers the Italian goth scene, including fashion, sexuality, music, art and literature. Some magazines, such as the now-defunct ''Dark Realms''<ref>''[http://www.monolithgraphics.com/darkrealms.html Dark Realms]''</ref> and ''Goth Is Dead'' included goth fiction and poetry. Other magazines cover fashion (e.g., ''[[Gothic Beauty]]''); music (e.g., ''Severance'') or culture and lifestyle (e.g., ''Althaus'' e-zine).
On 31 October 2011, [[ECW Press]] published the ''Encyclopedia Gothica''<ref>{{Cite book|title=Encyclopedia Gothica|last=Liisa.|first=Ladouceur|date=2011|publisher=ECW Press|others=Pullin, Gary.|isbn=978-1770410244|___location=Toronto|oclc=707327955}}</ref> written by author and poet Liisa Ladouceur with illustrations done by Gary Pullin.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://nationalpost.com/afterword/book-review-encyclopedia-gothica-by-liisa-ladouceur|title=Book Review: Encyclopedia Gothica, by Liisa Ladouceur|date=2011-11-11|work=National Post|access-date=2018-03-07|language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news|url=http://www.houstonpress.com/arts/encyclopedia-gothica-liisa-ladouceur-explains-it-all-6380980|title=Encyclopedia Gothica: Liisa Ladouceur Explains It All|last=Rouner|first=Jef|date=2011-10-28|work=Houston Press|access-date=2018-03-07|archive-date=7 March 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180307151049/http://www.houstonpress.com/arts/encyclopedia-gothica-liisa-ladouceur-explains-it-all-6380980|url-status=dead}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news|url=http://www.terrorizer.com/dominion/ater-liber/book-review-encyclopedia-gothica-liisa-ladouceur/|title=Book Review: 'Encyclopedia Gothica' - Liisa Ladouceur - Terrorizer|date=2012-01-03|work=Terrorizer|access-date=2018-03-07|language=en-GB}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news|url=http://www.macleans.ca/general/review-encyclopedia-gothica/|title=REVIEW: Encyclopedia Gothica - Macleans.ca|date=2011-11-02|work=Macleans.ca|access-date=2018-03-07|language=en-US}}</ref> This non-fiction book describes over 600 words and phrases relevant to Goth subculture.
Brian Craddock's 2017 novel Eucalyptus Goth<ref>Goodreads [https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/36513714-eucalyptus-goth Eucalyptus Goth]</ref> charts a year in the life of a household of 20-somethings in [[Brisbane]], Australia. The central characters are deeply entrenched in the local gothic subculture, with the book exploring themes relevant to the characters, notably unemployment, mental health, politics, and relationships.<ref>Renae Holyoak [https://www.outback-revue.com/eucalyptus-goth-book-launch/ A Love Letter to Brisbane] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210127041636/https://www.outback-revue.com/eucalyptus-goth-book-launch/ |date=27 January 2021 }} Outback Revue</ref>
===Graphic art===
Visual contemporary graphic artists with this aesthetic include [[Gerald Brom]], [[Dave McKean]], and [[Trevor Brown (artist)|Trevor Brown]] as well as illustrators [[Edward Gorey]], [[Charles Addams]], [[Lorin Morgan-Richards]], and [[James O'Barr]]. The artwork of Polish surrealist painter [[Zdzisław Beksiński]] is often described as gothic.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://culture.pl/en/article/the-cursed-paintings-of-zdzislaw-beksinski|title=The Cursed Paintings of Zdzisław Beksiński|work=Culture.pl|access-date=2018-10-18|language=en}}</ref> British artist [[Anne Sudworth]] published a book on gothic art in 2007.{{sfn|Sudworth|2007}}
===Events===
[[File:Ddf5poster.png|thumb|upright=0.9|A poster for the 2007 [[Drop Dead Festival]]]]
There are large annual goth-themed festivals in [[Germany]], including [[Wave-Gotik-Treffen]] in [[Leipzig]] and [[M'era Luna]] in [[Hildesheim)]], both annually attracting tens of thousands of people. [[Castle Party]] is the biggest goth festival in Poland.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://castleparty.com/|title=Castle Party Festival|website=castleparty.com}}</ref>
===Interior design===
In the 1980s, goths decorated their walls and ceilings with black fabrics and accessories like rosaries, crosses and plastic roses. Black furniture and cemetery-related objects such as candlesticks, death lanterns and skulls were also part of their interior design. In the 1990s, the interior design approach of the 1980s was replaced by a less macabre style.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.figuren-shop.de/|title=Deutsch|website=www.figuren-shop.de}}</ref>
==Sociology==
===Gender and sexuality===
Since the late 1970s, the UK goth scene refused "traditional standards of sexual propriety" and accepted and celebrated "unusual, bizarre or deviant sexual practices".{{sfn|Siegel|2007|p=350}} In the 2000s, many members "... claim overlapping memberships in the [[queer]], [[Polyamory|polyamorous]], [[BDSM|bondage-discipline/sadomasochism]], and [[pagan]] communities".{{sfn|Wilkins|2004}}
Though sexual empowerment is not unique to women in the goth scene, it remains an important part of many goth women's experience: The "... [s]cene's celebration of active sexuality" enables goth women "... to resist mainstream notions of passive femininity". They have an "active sexuality" approach which creates "gender egalitarianism" within the scene, as it "allows them to engage in sexual play with multiple partners while sidestepping most of the stigma and dangers that women who engage in such behavior" outside the scene frequently incur, while continuing to "... see themselves as strong".{{sfn|Wilkins|2004|p=329}}
Men dress up in an androgynous way: "... Men 'gender blend,' wearing makeup and skirts". In contrast, the "... women are dressed in sexy feminine outfits" that are "... highly sexualized" and which often combine "... [[corset]]s with short skirts and [[fishnet stocking]]s". [[Androgyny]] is common among the scene: "... androgyny in Goth subcultural style often disguises or even functions to reinforce conventional gender roles". It was only "valorised" for male goths, who adopt a "feminine" appearance, including "make-up, skirts and feminine accessories" to "enhance masculinity" and facilitate traditional heterosexual courting roles.<ref name="Spooner">{{cite magazine|title=Goth Culture: Gender, Sexuality and Style|date=28 May 2009|first=Catherine|last=Spooner|magazine=[[Times Higher Education]]|url=http://www.timeshighereducation.co.uk/books/goth-culture-gender-sexuality-and-style/406767.article/|access-date=25 July 2014}}</ref>
===Identity===
{{Main|Mall goth}}
While goth is a music-based scene, the goth subculture is also characterized by particular [[aesthetics]], outlooks, and a "way of seeing and of being seen". The last years, through social media, goths are able to meet people with similar interests, learn from each other, and finally, to take part in the scene. These activities on social media are the manifestation of the same practices which are taking place in goth clubs.<ref name="Karampampas 989–1003">{{Cite journal|last=Karampampas|first=Panas|date=2020-09-13|title=Goth YouTubers and the informal mentoring of young goths: peer support and solidarity in the Greek goth scene|url=https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/13676261.2019.1646892|journal=Journal of Youth Studies|language=en|volume=23|issue=8|pages=989–1003|doi=10.1080/13676261.2019.1646892|s2cid=200084598|issn=1367-6261|url-access=subscription}}</ref> This is not a new phenomenon since before the rise of social media on-line forums had the same function for goths.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Hodkinson|first=Paul|url=http://www.bloomsburycollections.com/book/goth-identity-style-and-subculture|title=Goth: Identity, Style and Subculture|date=2002|publisher=Berg Publishers|isbn=978-1-84788-874-7|doi=10.2752/9781847888747/goth0012}}</ref> Observers have raised the issue of to what degree individuals are truly members of the goth subculture. On one end of the spectrum is the "Uber goth", a person who is described as seeking a pallor so much that they apply "...as much white foundation and white powder as possible".{{sfn|Goodlad|Bibby|2007|p=36}} On the other end of the spectrum exists what another writer terms "[[poseur]]s" - "goth wannabes, usually young kids going through a goth phase who do not hold to goth sensibilities but want to be part of the goth crowd".{{sfn|Kilpatrick|2004|p=24}} It has been said that a "[[mall goth]]" is a teen who dresses in a goth style and spends time in malls with a [[Hot Topic]] store, but who does not know much about goth subculture or its music, thus making them a poseur.{{sfn|Ladouceur|2011}} In one case, even a well-known performer has been labelled with the pejorative term - a "number of goths, especially those who belonged to this subculture before the late-1980s, reject [[Marilyn Manson]] as a poseur who undermines the true meaning of goth".{{sfn|Siegel|2007|p=344}}
===Media and academic commentary===
The [[BBC]] described academic research that indicated that goths are "refined and sensitive, keen on poetry and books, not big on drugs or anti-social behaviour".<ref name="news.bbc.co.uk">{{cite news |first=Denise |last=Winterman |title=Upwardly gothic |publisher= BBC News Magazine |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/magazine/4828230.stm}}</ref> Teens often stay in the subculture "into their adult life", and they are likely to become well-educated and enter professions such as medicine or law.<ref name="news.bbc.co.uk"/> The subculture carries on appealing to teenagers who are looking for meaning and for identity. The scene teaches teens that there are difficult aspects to life that you "have to make an attempt to understand" or explain.<ref>{{cite news|title=The devil in your family room|date=16 December 1998|first=Fiona|last=Morgan|work=[[Salon (website)|Salon]]|url=http://www.salon.com/1998/12/15/15hot_2/|access-date=25 July 2014}}</ref>
''[[The Guardian]]'' reported that a "glue binding the [goth] scene together was [[Recreational drugs|drug use]]"; however, in the scene, drug use was varied. Goth is one of the few subculture movements that is not associated with a single drug,<ref name="Simpson" /> in the way that the [[Hippie]] subculture is associated with [[cannabis]] and the [[Mod subculture]] is associated with [[amphetamines]]. A 2006 study of young goths found that those with higher levels of goth identification had higher drug use.{{sfn|Young|Sweeting|West|2006}}
===Perception on nonviolence===
A study conducted by the [[University of Glasgow]], involving 1,258 youth interviewed at ages 11, 13, 15 and 19, found goth subculture to be strongly nonviolent and tolerant, thus providing "valuable social and emotional support" to teens vulnerable to self harm and mental illness.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.newscientist.com/article/dn8996-goth-subculture-may-protect-vulnerable-children.html |title=Goth subculture may protect vulnerable children |work=New Scientist |date=14 April 2006 |access-date=2009-04-25}}</ref>
====School shootings====
In the weeks following the 1999 [[Columbine High School massacre]], media reports about the teen gunmen, [[Eric Harris and Dylan Klebold]], portrayed them as part of a gothic cult. An increased suspicion of goth subculture subsequently manifested in the media.<ref>{{cite news |last=Goldberg |first=Carey |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1999/05/01/us/terror-littleton-shunned-for-those-who-dress-differently-increase-being-viewed.html |title=For Those Who Dress Differently, an Increase in Being Viewed as Abnormal |newspaper=[[The New York Times]] |date=1 May 1999 |access-date=15 October 2014}}</ref> This led to a [[moral panic]] over teen involvement in goth subculture and a number of other activities, such as violent video games.<ref name="www.salon.comt">{{cite news|url=http://www.salon.com/tech/feature/1999/04/23/gamers/index.html |title=Doom, Quake and mass murder |access-date=24 August 2008 |author=Janelle Brown |date=23 April 1999 |work=Salon |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080919092143/https://www.salon.com/tech/feature/1999/04/23/gamers/index.html |archive-date=19 September 2008}}</ref> Harris and Klebold had initially been thought to be members of "The Trenchcoat Mafia"; an informal club within Columbine High School. Later, such characterizations were considered incorrect.<ref name=Salon>{{cite news |last=Cullen |first=Dave |url=http://www.salon.com/1999/09/23/columbine_4/ |title=Inside the Columbine High investigation |work=[[Salon.com|Salon]] |date=23 September 1999 |access-date=15 October 2014}}</ref>
Media reported that the gunman in the 2006 [[Dawson College shooting]] in [[Montreal]], [[Quebec]], [[Kimveer Singh Gill]], was interested in goth subculture.<ref name="side-line_Gill">14 September 2006. [http://www.side-line.com/news_comments.php?id=17308_0_2_0_C Shooting by Canadian trench coat killer affects industrial / goth scene] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130219040256/http://www.side-line.com/news_comments.php?id=17308_0_2_0_C |date=19 February 2013 }} Side-line.com. Retrieved on 13 March 2007.</ref> Gill's self-professed love of Goth culture was the topic of media interest, and it was widely reported that the word "Goth", in Gill's writings, was a reference to the alternative [[industrial music|industrial]] and goth subculture rather than a reference to [[gothic rock]] music.<ref name="side-line_Gill"/> Gill, who committed [[suicide]] after the attack, wrote in his online journal: "I'm so sick of hearing about jocks and preps making life hard for the goths and others who look different, or are different".<ref>{{cite news|title=Chronologie d'un folie (Kimveer's online Journal)|newspaper=[[La Presse (Canadian newspaper)|La Presse]]|date=2006-09-15|url=http://techno.lapresse.ca/nouvelles/internet/200609/15/01-13680-kimveer-gill-chronologie-dune-folie.php|access-date=2016-07-27|archive-date=11 October 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161011190138/http://techno.lapresse.ca/nouvelles/internet/200609/15/01-13680-kimveer-gill-chronologie-dune-folie.php|url-status=dead}}</ref> Gill described himself in his profile on [[Vampirefreaks]].com as "... Trench ... the [[Death (personification)|Angel of Death]]" and he stated that "Metal and Goth kick ass".<ref name="cbc.ca">[http://www.cbc.ca/canada/story/2006/09/14/gunman-shooting.html CBC News: Montreal gunman called himself 'angel of death']</ref> An image gallery on Gill's Vampirefreaks.com blog had photos of him pointing a gun at the camera or wearing a long black trench coat.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.canada.com/topics/news/features/dawsonshooting/story.html?id=689b60e6-7ded-447c-b9b9-3d6ff521107b&k=89135|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20070312010255/http://www.canada.com/topics/news/features/dawsonshooting/story.html?id=689b60e6-7ded-447c-b9b9-3d6ff521107b&k=89135|url-status=dead|title=canada.com|archivedate=12 March 2007}}</ref>
[[Mick Mercer]] stated that Gill was "not a Goth. Never a Goth. The bands he listed as his chosen form of ear-bashing were relentlessly [[heavy metal music|metal]] and standard [[grunge]], [[Rock music|rock]] and [[goth metal]], with some [[Industrial music|industrial]] presence". Mercer stated that "Kimveer Gill listened to metal", "He had nothing whatsoever to do with Goth" and further commented "I realise that like many [[wikt:neophyte|Neos]] [neophyte], Kimveer Gill may even have believed he somehow was a Goth, because they're [Neophytes] only really noted for spectacularly missing the point".<ref>[[Mick Mercer|Mercer, Mick]] (23 March 2007). [http://mickmercer.livejournal.com/672571.html Mick Mercer talks about Kimveer Gill] mickmercer.livejournal.com. [https://web.archive.org/web/20171109001207/http://mickmercer.livejournal.com/672571.html Archived] from the original on 9 November 2017.</ref>
===Prejudice and violence directed at goths===
In part because of public misunderstanding surrounding gothic aesthetics, people in the goth subculture sometimes suffer [[prejudice]], [[discrimination]], and [[Toleration|intolerance]]. As is the case with members of various other subcultures and [[alternative lifestyle]]s, outsiders sometimes marginalize goths, either by intention or by accident.<ref name="NTTimesgoldberg">{{cite news |author=Goldberg, Carey |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1999/05/01/us/terror-littleton-shunned-for-those-who-dress-differently-increase-being-viewed.html?src=pm |title=Terror in Littleton: The Shunned; For Those Who Dress Differently, an Increase in Being Viewed as Abnormal |work=The New York Times |date=1 May 1999 |access-date=2012-03-18}}</ref> Actress [[Christina Hendricks]] talked of being bullied as a goth at school and how difficult it was for her to deal with societal pressure: "Kids can be pretty judgmental about people who are different. But instead of breaking down and conforming, I stood firm. That is also probably why I was unhappy. My mother was mortified and kept telling me how horrible and ugly I looked. Strangers would walk by with a look of shock on their face, so I never felt pretty. I just always felt awkward".<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/celebritynews/9088143/Christina-Hendricks-I-was-bullied-at-school-for-being-a-goth.html |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220111/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/celebritynews/9088143/Christina-Hendricks-I-was-bullied-at-school-for-being-a-goth.html |archive-date=11 January 2022 |url-access=subscription |url-status=live|title=Christina Hendricks: 'I was bullied at school for being a goth' |date=17 February 2012 }}{{cbignore}}</ref>
On 11 August 2007, while walking through Stubbylee Park in [[Bacup]], [[Lancashire]], a young couple, [[Murder of Sophie Lancaster|Sophie Lancaster]] and Robert Maltby, were attacked by a group of teenagers. Lancaster subsequently died from the severe [[Head injury|head injuries]] she suffered in the attack.<ref>{{cite news |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/england/lancashire/6943848.stm |title=Goth couple badly hurt in attack |work=BBC News-UK |date=11 August 2007 |access-date=2012-03-18}}</ref> It later emerged that the attackers had attacked the couple because they were goths. On 29 April 2008, two of the attackers, Ryan Herbert and Brendan Harris, were convicted for the murder of Lancaster and given life sentences. Three others were given lesser sentences for the assault on her boyfriend Robert Maltby. In delivering the sentence, Judge Anthony Russell stated, "This was a hate crime against these completely harmless people targeted because their appearance was different to yours". He went on to defend the goth community, calling goths "perfectly peaceful, law-abiding people who pose no threat to anybody".<ref>{{cite web |author=Byrne, Paul |url=http://www.dailyrecord.co.uk/news/uk-world-news/2008/04/29/life-jail-trms-for-teenage-thugs-who-killed-goth-girl-86908-20398652/ |title=Life jail trms for teenage thugs who killed goth girl |work=dailyrecord.co.uk |date=29 April 2008 |access-date=2012-03-18}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/crime/two-teenagers-sentenced-to-life-over-murder-of-goth-817218.html |work=Independent.co.uk |title=Two teenagers sentenced to life over murder of Goth |author=Pilling, Kim |date=29 April 2008 |access-date=2012-03-18 |archive-date=12 November 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121112052101/http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/crime/two-teenagers-sentenced-to-life-over-murder-of-goth-817218.html |url-status=dead }}</ref> Judge Russell added that he "recognised it as a hate crime without Parliament having to tell him to do so and had included that view in his sentencing".<ref>{{cite web |author=Henfield, Sally |url=http://www.lancashiretelegraph.co.uk/display.var.2233349.0.sophies_family_and_friends_vow_to_carry_on_campaign.php |title=Sophie's family and friends vow to carry on campaign |work=lancashiretelegraph.co.uk |date=29 April 2008 |access-date=2012-03-18 }}{{Dead link|date=July 2025 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> Despite this ruling, a bill to add discrimination based on subculture affiliation to the definition of hate crime in British law was not presented to parliament.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/s/1043926_call_for_hate_crimes_law_change |title=Call for hate crimes law change |author=Smyth, Catherine |work=manchestereveningnews.co.uk |date=4 April 2008 |access-date=2012-03-18}}</ref>
In 2013, police in Manchester announced they would be treating attacks on members of alternative subcultures, such as goths, the same as they do for attacks based on race, religion, and sexual orientation.<ref>{{cite news | url= http://www.3news.co.nz/Manchester-goths-get-police-protection/tabid/417/articleID/293078/Default.aspx | archive-url= https://archive.today/20150315190920/http://www.3news.co.nz/Manchester-goths-get-police-protection/tabid/417/articleID/293078/Default.aspx | url-status= dead | archive-date= 15 March 2015 | work= 3 News NZ | title= Manchester goths get police protection | date= 5 April 2013 }}</ref>
A more recent phenomenon is the emergence of goth YouTubers who very often address the prejudice and violence against goths. These personalities create videos as a response to problems that they personally face, which include challenges such as bullying, and dealing with negative descriptions of themselves. Viewers often engage closely with these YouTubers, asking them for advice on how to deal with related personal struggles and getting responses in the form of personal messages or videos. These interactions take the form of an informal mentoring which contributes to the building of solidarity within the goth scene.<ref name="Karampampas 989–1003"/>
===Self-harm study===
A study published on the ''[[British Medical Journal]]'' concluded that "identification as belonging to the Goth subculture [at some point in their lives] was the best predictor of [[self-harm|self harm]] and attempted suicide [among young teens]", and that it was most possibly due to self-selection, with people committing self harm joining the goth subculture in order to get support from individuals with similar experiences.{{sfn|Young|Sweeting|West|2006}}
According to ''The Guardian'', some goth teens are more likely to harm themselves or attempt suicide. A medical journal study of 1,300 Scottish schoolchildren until their teen years found that the 53% of the 25 goth teens sampled had attempted to harm themselves and 47% had attempted suicide. The study found that the "correlation was stronger than any other predictor".<ref>Polly Curtis and John Carvel. "Teen goths more prone to suicide, study shows". ''The Guardian'', Friday 14 April 2006</ref><ref name="bbc harm">{{cite news | work = [[BBC]] | title = Goths 'more likely to self-harm' | date = 13 April 2006 | url = http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/health/4905898.stm |access-date=2012-03-18}}</ref>
The authors held that most self-harm by teens was done before joining the subculture, and that joining the subculture would actually protect them and help them deal with distress in their lives, while cautioning that the study was based on a small sample size and needed replication to confirm the results.<ref name="bbc harm" /><ref name="vince">{{cite news | work = [[New Scientist]] | title = Goth subculture may protect vulnerable children | date = 14 April 2006 | author = Gaia Vince | url = https://www.newscientist.com/article/dn8996-goth-subculture-may-protect-vulnerable-children.html |access-date=2012-03-18}}</ref> The study was criticized for using only a small sample of goth teens and not taking into account other influences and differences between types of goths.<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Taubert |first1=Mark |last2=Kandasamy |first2=Jothy |year=2006 |title=Self Harm in Goth Youth Subculture: Conclusion Relates Only to Small Sample |journal=BMJ |type=letter to the editor |volume=332 |issue=7551 |page=1216 |doi=10.1136/bmj.332.7551.1216 |pmc=1463972 |pmid=16710018}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last=Phillipov |first=Michelle |year=2006 |title=Self Harm in Goth Youth Subculture: Study Merely Reinforces Popular Stereotypes |journal=BMJ |type=letter to the editor |volume=332 |issue=7551 |pages=1215–1216 |doi=10.1136/bmj.332.7551.1215-b |pmid=16710012 |pmc=1463947}}</ref>{{sfn|Young|Sweeting|West|2006}}
==See also==
* [[Dark academia]]
* [[Visual kei]]
==References==
===Citations===
{{reflist|colwidth=30em}}
===Bibliography===
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|editor2-last=Bibby
|editor2-first=Michael
|title=Goth: Undead Subculture
|___location=Durham, North Carolina
|publisher=Duke University Press
|isbn=978-0-8223-8970-5
|pages=1–37
}}
* {{cite book
|last=Grunenberg
|first=Christoph
|year=1997
|title=Gothic: Transmutations of Horror in Late-Twentieth-Century Art
|chapter=Unsolved Mysteries: Gothic Tales from ''Frankenstein'' to the Hair Eating Doll
|publisher=Mit Press
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|isbn=978-0-262-57128-9
}}
* {{cite book
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|first=James
|year=1997
|title=Gothic: Transmutations of Horror in Late-Twentieth-Century Art
|chapter=Bela Lugosi's Dead and I Don't Feel So Good Either: Goth and the Glorification of Suffering in Rock Music
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}}
* {{cite book
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* {{cite book
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* {{cite book
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* {{cite book
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|year=2013
|title=Vampire Culture
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}}
* {{cite journal
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|first1=Pallav
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|first2=Steven
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|last4=Sun
|first4=Ping
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|title=Peer Group Self-Identification as a Predictor of Relational and Physical Aggression Among High School Students
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* {{cite book
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}}
* {{cite journal
|last=Richter
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}}
* {{cite journal
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|last3=Scott
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|title=Vulnerable Goth Teens: The Role of Schools in This Psychosocial High-Risk Culture
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* {{cite book
|last=Siegel
|first=Carol
|year=2007
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}}
* {{cite book
|last=Spuybroek
|first=Lars
|author-link=Lars Spuybroek
|year=2011
|title=The Sympathy of Things: Ruskin and the Ecology of Design
|___location=Rotterdam, Netherlands
|publisher=V2_Publishing
|isbn=978-90-5662-827-7
}}
* {{cite book
|last1=Steele
|first1=Valerie
|author-link1=Valerie Steele
|last2=Park
|first2=Jennifer
|date=21 October 2008
|title=Gothic: Dark Glamour
|publisher=Yale University Press
|language=en
|isbn=978-0300136944
}}
* {{cite book
|last=Sudworth
|first=Anne
|author-link=Anne Sudworth
|year=2007
|title=Gothic Fantasies: The Paintings of Anne Sudworth
|___location=London
|publisher=AAPPL Artists' and Photographers' Press
|isbn=978-1-904332-56-5
}}
* {{cite journal
|last=Wilkins
|first=Amy C.
|year=2004
|title='So Full of Myself as a Chick': Goth Women, Sexual Independence, and Gender Egalitarianism
|journal=Gender & Society
|volume=8
|issue=3
|pages=328–349
|issn=0891-2432
|jstor=4149405
|doi=10.1177/0891243204264421
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}}
* {{cite journal
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|title=Prevalence of Deliberate Self Harm and Attempted Suicide within Contemporary Goth Youth Subculture: Longitudinal Cohort Study
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|doi-access=free
|pmc=1458563
}}
{{refend}}
==Further reading==
{{refbegin|35em|indent=yes}}
* {{cite book
|last=Baddeley
|first=Gavin
|author-link=Gavin Baddeley
|year=2002
|title=Goth Chic: A Connoisseur's Guide to Dark Culture
|publisher=Plexus
|isbn=978-0-85965-308-4
}}
* {{cite book
|last=Brill
|first=Dunja
|year=2008
|title=Goth Culture: Gender, Sexuality and Style
|___location=Oxford
|publisher=Berg Publishers
}}
* {{cite book
|last=Catalyst
|first=Clint
|author-link=Clint Catalyst
|year=2000
|title=Cottonmouth Kisses
|___location=San Francisco, California
|publisher=Manic D Press
|isbn=978-0-916397-65-4
}}<br />A first-person account of an individual's life within the Goth subculture.
* {{cite book
|last=Davenport-Hines
|first=Richard
|author-link=Richard Davenport-Hines
|year=1999
|title=Gothic: Four Hundred Years of Excess, Horror, Evil and Ruin
|url=https://archive.org/details/gothicfourhundre00dave
|url-access=registration
|___location=New York
|publisher=North Port Press
|isbn=978-0-86547-590-8
}}<br />A chronological/aesthetic history of Goth covering the spectrum from Gothic architecture to the Cure.
* {{cite book
|last=Digitalis
|first=Raven
|year=2007
|title=Goth Craft: The Magickal Side of Dark Culture
|___location=Woodbury, Minnesota
|publisher=Llewellyn Publications
|isbn=978-0-7387-1104-1
|url=https://archive.org/details/gothcraftmagicka00digi
}}<br />Includes a lengthy explanation of Gothic history, music, fashion, and proposes a link between mystic/magical spirituality and dark subcultures.
* {{cite book
|last=Fuentes Rodríguez
|first=César
|year=2007
|title=Mundo Gótico
|language=es
|publisher=Quarentena Ediciones
|isbn=978-84-933891-6-1
}}<br />Covering literature, music, cinema, BDSM, fashion, and subculture topics.
* {{cite book
|last1=Groom
|first1=Nick
|title=The Gothic: A Very Short Introduction
|date=2012
|publisher=Oxford University Press
|___location=Oxford
|isbn=9780191777905
|chapter=First and last and always
|author-link=Nick Groom
|doi=10.1093/actrade/9780199586790.003.0013}}
* {{cite book
|last=Hodkinson
|first=Paul
|year=2002
|title=Goth: Identity, Style and Subculture
|___location=Oxford
|publisher=Berg Publishers
|isbn=978-1-85973-600-5
}}
* {{cite book
|last=Hodkinson
|first=Paul
|author-mask={{long dash}}
|year=2005
|chapter=Communicating Goth: On-line Media
|editor-last=Gelder
|editor-first=Ken
|title=The Subcultures Reader
|edition=2nd
|___location=London
|publisher=Routledge
|pages=567–574
|isbn=978-0-415-34416-6
}}
* {{cite encyclopedia
|last1=Mason
|first1=Diane
|title=Goth
|encyclopedia=The Encyclopedia of the Gothic |date=2012
|publisher=John Wiley & Sons
|language=en
|doi=10.1002/9781118398500.wbeotgg006
}}<br /> An examination of the semantic evolution of the term "Goth" from its historical origin to its modern application to a music and style subculture that emerged from punk in the 20th century.
* {{cite book
|last=Mercer
|first=Mick
|author-link=Mick Mercer
|year=1996
|title=Hex Files: The Goth Bible
|___location=London
|publisher=Batsford
|isbn=978-0-7134-8033-7
}}<br />An international survey of the Goth scene.
* {{cite book
|last=Mercer
|first=Mick
|author-link=Mick Mercer
|author-mask={{long dash}}
|year=2002
|title=21st Century Goth
|___location=London
|publisher=Reynolds & Hearn
|isbn=978-1-903111-28-4
}}<br />An exploration of the modern state of the Goth subculture worldwide.
* {{cite book
|last1=Robb
|first1=John
|title=The Art of Darkness: The History of Goth
|date=2023
|publisher=Louder Than War Books
|isbn=978-1-914424-86-1
|author-link=John Robb (musician)}}
* {{cite book
|last=Scharf
|first=Natasha
|author-link=Natasha Scharf
|year=2011
|title=Worldwide Gothic: A Chronicle of a Tribe
|___location=Church Stretton, England
|publisher=Independent Music Press
|isbn=978-1-906191-19-1
}}<br />A global view of the goth scene from its birth in the late 1970s to the present day.
* {{cite book
|last1=Siegel
|first1=Carol
|title=Goth's Dark Empire
|date=2005
|publisher=Indiana University Press
|___location=Bloomington
|isbn=9780253217769
}}<br /> An exploration of the connections between the Goth subculture and sexual identity, transgression, and alternative expressions of desire.
* {{cite book
|last1=Spooner
|first1=Catherine
|editor1-last=Punter
|editor1-first=David
|title=A New Companion to the Gothic
|date=2012 |publisher=John Wiley & Sons
|isbn=978-1-4443-5495-9
|pages=350–365
|language=en
|chapter=Goth Culture
|doi=10.1002/9781444354959.ch24
}}
* {{cite book
|last1=Tolhurst
|first1=Lol
|title=Goth: A History
|date=2023
|publisher=Da Capo
|___location=New York
|isbn=9780306828423
|edition=1st
}}<br />An insider's perspective on the scene from former [[The Cure]] drummer [[Lol Tolhurst]]
* {{cite book
|last=Vas
|first=Abdul
|author-link=Abdul Vas
|year=2012
|title=For Those About to Power
|___location=Madrid
|publisher=T.F. Editores
|isbn=978-84-15253-52-5
}}
* {{cite book
|last=Venters
|first=Jillian
|year=2009
|title=Gothic Charm School: An Essential Guide for Goths and Those Who Love Them
|others=Illustrated by Venters, Pete
|___location=New York
|publisher=HarperCollins
|isbn=978-0-06-166916-3
}}<br />An etiquette guide to "gently persuade others in her chosen subculture that being a polite Goth is much, much more subversive than just wearing T-shirts with "edgy" sayings on them".
* {{cite book
|author=Voltaire
|author-link=Aurelio Voltaire
|year=2004
|title=What is Goth?
|___location=Boston
|publisher=Weiser Books
|isbn=978-1-57863-322-7
}}<br />An illustrated view of the goth subculture.
{{refend}}
{{Goth subculture}}
{{
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[[Category:Goth subculture| ]]
[[Category:British subcultures]]
[[Category:Youth culture]]
[[Category:History of fashion]]
[[Category:1980s fashion]]
[[Category:1990s fashion]]
[[Category:2000s fashion]]
[[Category:Musical subcultures]]
[[Category:Culture-related controversies]]
[[Category:Stereotypes]]
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