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{{Short description|Fashion subculture originating in Japan}}
[[Image:Gothic lolita takeshita street.jpg|thumb|200px|Classic (Left) and Gothic (Right) Lolitas in [[Takeshita Street]], [[Tokyo]]]]
{{About|the Japanese fashion style|other uses|Lolita (disambiguation)}}
[[Image:music_manasan.jpg|thumb|200px|[[Mana (musician)|Mana]][[Gothic Lolita| (Gothic Lolita)]]]]
{{Use dmy dates|date=January 2023}}
[[File:Angelic Pretty (1636639141).jpg|thumb|[[Angelic Pretty]], a shop specializing in Lolita fashion]]
{{Nihongo|'''Lolita fashion'''|ロリータ・ファッション|rorīta fasshon}} is a [[subculture]] from Japan that is highly influenced by [[Victorian fashion|Victorian]] clothing and styles from the [[Rococo]] period.<ref>{{harvnb|Hardy Bernal|2011|p=20}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Monden|2008}}</ref><ref name="scholarworks.gsu.edu"/><ref>{{harvnb|Gatlin|2014|p=16}}</ref><ref name="A. Haijima (2013)">{{harvnb|Haijima|2013|p=32}}</ref><ref name="K. Coombes (2016) p. 36">{{harvnb|Coombes|2016|p=36}}</ref>{{Excessive citations inline|date=December 2022}} A very distinctive property of Lolita fashion is the aesthetic of [[Kawaii|cuteness]].<ref>{{harvnb|Monden|2008|p=29}}</ref><ref>{{Cite journal|last=Younker|first=Terasa|title=Lolita: dreaming, despairing,defying|url=https://scholar.harvard.edu/files/younker/files/lolita_-_dreaming_despairing_defying.pdf?mc_cid=15cb58d940&mc_eid=0445bc0484|journal=New York University|page=97|access-date=30 September 2020|archive-date=1 November 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201101191159/https://scholar.harvard.edu/files/younker/files/lolita_-_dreaming_despairing_defying.pdf?mc_cid=15cb58d940&mc_eid=0445bc0484|url-status=live}}</ref> This clothing subculture can be categorized into three main substyles: [[Gothic fashion|gothic]], classic, and sweet.<ref name="scholarworks.gsu.edu">{{harvnb|Robinson|2014|p=9}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Berry|2017|p=9}}</ref> Many other substyles such as sailor, country, ''hime'' (princess), ''guro'' ([[grotesque]]), ''qi'' and ''wa'' (based on traditional Chinese and Japanese dress, respectively), punk, ''shiro'' (white), ''kuro'' (black), and [[steampunk]] Lolita also exist. This style evolved into a widely followed subculture in Japan and other countries in the 1990s and 2000s,<ref name="Y. Kawamura (2012)">{{Cite book |last=Kawamura |first=Yuniya |doi = 10.2752/9781474235327/KAWAMURA0008|chapter = Harajuku: The Youth in Silent Rebellion|title = Fashioning Japanese Subcultures|year = 2012|pages=65–75 |isbn = 9781474235327}}</ref><ref name="A. Haijima 2013 p. 33">{{harvnb|Haijima|2013|p=33}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Staite|2012|p=75}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Robinson|2014|p=53}}</ref><ref name="Monden 2008 30">{{harvnb|Monden|2008|p=30}}</ref>{{Excessive citations inline|date=December 2022}} although its popularity has waned in Japan as of the 2010s as alternative fashions fell in popularity.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20170920-the-outrageous-street-style-tribes-of-harajuku|title=''The Outrageous Street-Style Tribes of Harajuku''|publisher=BBC|access-date=13 June 2018|archive-date=18 June 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180618002318/http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20170920-the-outrageous-street-style-tribes-of-harajuku|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name=Quartz/><ref>{{cite magazine|url=http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/28687/1/what-the-hell-has-happened-to-tokyo-s-fashion-subcultures/|title=What the Hell has Happened to Tokyo's Fashion Subcultures?|magazine=Dazed|access-date=13 June 2018|date=2015-12-04|archive-date=13 June 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180613234259/http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/28687/1/what-the-hell-has-happened-to-tokyo-s-fashion-subcultures|url-status=live}}</ref>
 
== Description ==
'''Lolita fashion''' is a style of dress formed into a subculture that originated in [[Japan]]. In general, Lolita is inspired by [[Victorian fashion|Victorian]] girl's clothing and often aims to imitate the look of Victorian porcelain [[doll]]s. [[Skirt]]s are knee length and may have a pannier or petticoat to add volume. As in mainstream Japanese fashion, over-knee socks, knee socks or stockings are extremely popular though white or black tights are also common. Shoes or boots with high heels (though not usually [[stiletto heels]]) or platforms, such as [[Mary Jane (shoe)|Mary Jane]]s, complete the look. Frilly, ruffled or lace-trimmed [[Victorian fashion|Victorian]] [[blouse]]s are popular, especially with Classic and [[Gothic Lolita]]s, who may favor long skirts and jackets rather than overtly child-like designs. Apart from the occasional shortness of skirts, designs are usually [[Modesty|modest]], sometimes with long lace-capped sleeves. Lace headdress, minature, side worn [[top hat (headgear)|top hat]]s and bracelets are some of the usual accessories.
The main feature of Lolita fashion is the volume of the skirt, created by wearing a [[petticoat]] or [[crinoline]].<ref name="skemman.is">{{harvnb|Valdimarsdótti|2015|p=21}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Hardy Bernal|2011|p=23}}</ref><ref name="K. Robinson 2014 p. 39"/> The skirt can be either bell-shaped or A-line shaped.<ref name="K. Robinson 2014 p. 39">{{harvnb|Robinson|2014|p=39}}</ref> Components of the Lolita wardrobe consist most importantly of a [[blouse]] (long or short sleeves) with a skirt or a dress, such as a [[Jumper (dress)|jumperskirt]] (JSK), or a one-piece (OP), which usually come to the knees.<ref>{{harvnb|Gatlin|2014|p=79}}</ref><ref name="hardy1">{{Cite thesis|last=Hardy Bernal|first=Kathryn A.|date=2019|title=Lolita Latina : an examination of Gothic and Lolita Style in the Mexican environment : a thesis submitted in fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Visual and Material Culture, College of Creative Arts, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand|url=https://mro.massey.ac.nz/handle/10179/15329|url-status=live|access-date=18 May 2021|publisher=Massey University|type=Thesis|archive-date=17 May 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210517224003/https://mro.massey.ac.nz/handle/10179/15329}}</ref> Lolitas frequently wear wigs in combination with other headwear such as hair bows or bonnets (similar to [[Poke bonnet|poke bonnets]]). Lolitas can also wear Victorian style drawers under their petticoats. For further effect, some Lolitas use knee socks, ankle socks, or tights, together with either [[High-heeled footwear|high heels]] or flat shoes, often decorated.
 
== History ==
Although "[[Lolita]]" is a reference to [[Vladimir Nabokov]]'s famous novel, and Lolita is often worn by teens, most followers of the style do not consider it sexual or at least overtly sexual. Adherents present themselves as Victorian [[children]] or baby [[dolls]] and prefer to look cute rather than sexy.
Although the origin of the fashion is unclear, at the end of the 1970s a new movement known as ''Otome'' (乙女) was founded, which slightly influenced Lolita fashion since ''Otome'' means ''maiden'' and maiden style looks like a less elaborated Lolita style.<ref name="skemman.is"/>{{dubious|date=November 2024}} Before Otome-kei emerged, there was already a rise of cuteness culture in the earlier seventies; during this period there was a strong emphasis on cute and childish handwriting in Japanese schools.<ref>{{harvnb|Coombes|2016|p=28}}</ref><ref name="K. Koma (2013)">{{cite journal |url=http://cejsh.icm.edu.pl/cejsh/element/bwmeta1.element.desklight-5ce7475b-0ff6-4d82-8767-082e9ba5cdf1/c/ |last=Koma |first=K. |year=2013 |title=Kawaii as Represented in Scientific Research: The Possibilities of Kawaii Cultural Studies |journal=Hemispheres, Studies on Cultures and Societies |issue=28 |pages=103–117 |access-date=10 February 2018 |archive-date=12 August 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170812213605/http://cejsh.icm.edu.pl/cejsh/element/bwmeta1.element.desklight-5ce7475b-0ff6-4d82-8767-082e9ba5cdf1/c/ |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Christopherson|2014|p=5}}</ref> As a result, the company [[Sanrio]] began experimenting with cute designs.<ref>{{harvnb|Coombes|2016|p=29}}</ref> The cuteness style, known as ''[[Kawaii|kawaii style]]'', became popular in the 1980s.<ref>{{harvnb|Valdimarsdótti|2015|p=29}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Onohara|2011|p=35}}</ref> After Otome [[Do-It-Yourself]] became popular, which led to the emergence of a new style called 'dolly-kei', the predecessor of Lolita fashion.<ref>{{harvnb|Hardy Bernal|2011|pp=119–121}}</ref><ref name="hardy1"/>
 
Between 1977 and 1998, a large part of the [[Harajuku]] shopping district closed for car traffic on Sundays. The result was an increase in interaction between pedestrians in Harajuku.<ref>{{harvnb|Valdimarsdótti|2015|p=13}}</ref> When brands like {{Lang|ja|[[:ja:ジェディックス|PINK HOUSE]]}} (1973),<ref name="Y. Kawamura (2012)"/><ref name="hdl.handle.net">{{harvnb|Hardy Bernal|2011|p=119}}</ref> Milk (1970),<ref name="Y. Kawamura (2012)"/> and [[Angelic Pretty]] (1979)<ref name="dspace.carthage.edu">{{harvnb|Christopherson|2014|p=24}}</ref> began to sell cute clothing, it resulted in the emergence of a new style that would later become known as 'Lolita'.<ref>{{harvnb|Coombes|2016|p=35}}</ref>
Japanese culture places a higher value upon extremely youthful appearance and behavior than Western, and some adult women buy large amounts of products, such as [[Hello Kitty]] goods, that are typically marketed only to children in the West. Lolita fashion is perhaps a more visible extension of this phenomenon.
 
The term 'Lolita' first appeared in the fashion magazine ''Ryukou Tsushin'' in the September 1987 issue.<ref name="Y. Kawamura (2012)"/> Shortly after that, [[Baby, the Stars Shine Bright (brand)|Baby, The Stars Shine Bright]] (1988),<ref name="L. Atkinson 2015 p. 40"/> [[Manifesteange Metamorphose temps de fille|Metamorphose temps de fille]] (1993),<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.metamorphose.gr.jp/english/_aboutus/index.htm|title=About Metamorphose|publisher=Metamorphose|access-date=25 February 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20040923200754/http://www.metamorphose.gr.jp/english/_aboutus/index.htm|archive-date=23 September 2004|url-status=dead}}</ref> and other brands emerged.<ref name="Y. Kawamura (2012)"/> In the 1990s, Lolita became more accepted, with [[visual kei]] bands like [[Malice Mizer]] and others rising in popularity. These band members wore elaborate clothes that fans began to adopt.<ref name="L. Atkinson 2015 p. 40"/> During this time Japan went through an economic depression,<ref>{{harvnb|Hardy Bernal|2011|p=168}}</ref> leading to an increase in alternative youth and fashion cultures such as gyaru, otaku, visual kei, and Lolita,<ref name="L. Atkinson 2015 p. 40"/> as well as visual-kei-inspired clothing such as Mori, Fairy Kei, and Decora.<ref name="Chancy J. Gatlin 2014 p. 37 & 61">{{harvnb|Gatlin|2014|pp=37, 61}}</ref> The Lolita style spread quickly from the [[Kansai]] region and finally reached [[Tokyo]].{{citation needed|reason=Unknown statement?|date=February 2018}} Partly due to the economic difficulties, there was large growth in the cuteness and youth cultures that originated in the seventies.<ref name="L. Atkinson 2015 p. 40"/>
==Lolita Subcategories==
Lolita can be classified into Classic Lolita, [[Gothic Lolita]], Punk Lolita, [[Sweet Lolita]], and Wa (Kimono) Lolita.
 
In the late nineties, the [[Jingu Bashi]] (also called the Harajuku Bridge) became known as a meeting place for youth who wore Lolita and other alternative fashion,<ref name="Y. Kawamura (2012)" /><ref name="F0011392106066816 Y. Kawamura 2006 p. 793-794">{{Cite journal |doi = 10.1177/0011392106066816|title = Japanese Teens as Producers of Street Fashion|journal = Current Sociology|volume = 54|issue = 5|pages = 784–801|year = 2006|last1 = Kawamura|first1 = Yuniya|s2cid = 144670266}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book |last=Kawamura |first=Yuniya |doi = 10.2752/9781474235327/KAWAMURA0006a|chapter = Geographically and Stylistically Defined Japanese Subcultures|title = Fashioning Japanese Subcultures|year = 2012|pages=43–50 |isbn = 9781474235327}}</ref><ref>{{Cite journal |doi = 10.1111/j.1548-1395.2008.00006.x|title = Urban Princesses: Performance and "Women's Language" in Japan's Gothic/Lolita Subculture|journal = Journal of Linguistic Anthropology|volume = 18|pages = 130–150|year = 2008|last1 = Gagné|first1 = Isaac}}</ref> and Lolita became more popular, causing a surge in warehouses selling Lolita fashion.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.maridari.com/2007/11/29/tokyo-day-7-part-3-gothic-lolita-marui-one-marui-young-shinjuku/|title=Tokyo Day 7 Part 3 – Gothic Lolita, Marui One, Marui Young Shinjuku|access-date=8 August 2017|archive-date=22 October 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161022124047/http://www.maridari.com/2007/11/29/tokyo-day-7-part-3-gothic-lolita-marui-one-marui-young-shinjuku/|url-status=live}}</ref> Important magazines that contributed to the spread of the fashion style were the ''[[Gothic & Lolita Bible]]'' (2001), a spin-off of the popular Japanese fashion magazine ''{{Lang|ja|[[:ja:KERA|KERA]]}}'' (1998), and ''[[FRUiTS]]'' (1997).<ref>{{cite web|url=https://thebolditalic.com/pretty-in-pink-the-bold-italic-san-francisco-b550e88cd14c|title=Pretty in Pink|publisher=The Bold Italic Editors|access-date=9 August 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170808220110/https://thebolditalic.com/pretty-in-pink-the-bold-italic-san-francisco-b550e88cd14c?gi=6c9be6ac07a6|archive-date=8 August 2017|date=2010-04-08}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Onohara|2011|p=33}}</ref> It was around this time that interest in and awareness of Lolita fashion began entering countries outside of Japan, with the ''Gothic & Lolita Bible'' being translated into English and distributed outside of Japan through the publisher [[Tokyopop]],<ref>{{cite web|url=http://manga.about.com/od/mangaartistswriters/a/JWinterberg.htm|title=Interview: Jenna Winterberg and Michelle Nguyen – Page 1, Aoki, Deb.|publisher=Manga About|access-date=11 February 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080330003651/http://manga.about.com/od/mangaartistswriters/a/JWinterberg.htm|archive-date=30 March 2008|url-status=dead}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.japanesestreets.com/reports/428/gothic-lolita-bible-soon-in-english|title=Gothic & Lolita Bible in English|publisher=Japanese Streets|access-date=8 August 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170808213007/http://www.japanesestreets.com/reports/428/gothic-lolita-bible-soon-in-english|archive-date=8 August 2017}}</ref> and ''FRUiTS'' publishing an English picture book of [[Japanese street fashion|Japanese Street Fashion]] in 2001. As the style became further popularized through the Internet, more shops opened abroad, such as Baby, The Stars Shine Bright in Paris (2007)<ref name="Monden 2008 30"/> and in New York (2014).<ref>{{cite web|url=http://aramajapan.com/news/baby-stars-shine-bright-tokyo-rebel-open-retail-locations-new-york/936/|title=Baby, the Stars Shine Bright and Tokyo Rebel to open retail locations in New York|publisher=Arama! Japan|access-date=8 August 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170808213532/http://aramajapan.com/news/baby-stars-shine-bright-tokyo-rebel-open-retail-locations-new-york/936/|archive-date=8 August 2017|date=July 2014}}</ref>
===Classic Lolita===
{{main|Classic Lolita}}
Inspired by more traditional and mature looking styles that features [[Empire silhouette|empire waist]]s and slimmer styling. Deep earth-tones and jewel colors are prevalent, in addition to floral and traditional fabric patterns. Traditional, though not overly frilled and ornate, [[French maid|Maid-style clothing]] and [[Alice in Wonderland]]-style aprons may be classified into this genre. Classic Lolita style tries best to capture the essence of Victorian girls fashion, but not as overly frilly as Sweet Lolita. It is focused more on feminine fashion ideals than the childish look of Sweet Lolita.
 
Over time, the youth that gathered in Harajuku or at Harajuku Bridge disappeared. One possible explanation is that the introduction of [[fast fashion]] from retailers [[H&M]] and [[Forever 21]] caused a reduction in the consumption of street fashion.<ref name=KERA>{{cite web|url=http://aramajapan.com/news/fashion-magazine-kera-to-end-print-publication/73164/|title=Fashion Magazine KERA to End Print Publication|publisher=Arama! Japan|access-date=8 August 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170808112828/http://aramajapan.com/news/fashion-magazine-kera-to-end-print-publication/73164/|archive-date=8 August 2017|date=2017-03-30}}</ref><ref name=Quartz>{{cite news|url=https://qz.com/909573/japans-wild-creative-harajuku-street-style-is-dead-long-live-uniqlo/|title=Japan's wild, creative Harajuku street style is dead. Long live Uniqlo|work=Quartz|access-date=8 August 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170808125758/https://qz.com/909573/japans-wild-creative-harajuku-street-style-is-dead-long-live-uniqlo/|archive-date=8 August 2017}}</ref> ''FRUiTS'' ceased publication while the ''Gothic & Lolita Bible'' was put on hiatus in 2017.<ref name=KERA/><ref>{{cite magazine|url=https://i-d.co/article/what-the-closure-of-fruits-magazine-means-for-japanese-street-style/|title=What the Closure of FRUiTS Magazine Means for Japanese Street Style|magazine=Vice|access-date=13 June 2018|date=2017-02-06|archive-date=13 June 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180613184409/https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/ywvz3g/what-the-closure-of-fruits-magazine-means-for-japanese-street-style|url-status=live}}</ref> As of May 2023, ''FRUiTS'' has been brought back as an ePublication with an English-language version.<ref>{{Cite news |last=Garcia-Furtado |first=Laia |date=May 8, 2023 |title=FRUiTS, the legendary Japanese Street Style Magazine, is back |url=https://www.vogue.com/article/fruits-magazine-90s-street-style-english-translation |access-date=May 18, 2024 |work=Vogue}}</ref>
===Gothic Lolita===
{{main|Gothic Lolita}}
Influenced by certain elements of [[gothic fashion]], this has probably become the most popular style within Lolita fashion and certainly the most recognized in the west. This style started as a youth subculture sometime around 1997/1998 and became a well-established genre available in various boutiques and some major [[department store]]s by around 2001. Some observers consider it a reaction to the [[kogal|"Kogal"]] aesthetic.
 
== Sources of inspiration ==
Gothic Lolita clothes are usually black, white, navy or burgundy in color with a dark theme. [[Makeup]] is usually dark in color, in contrast with other Lolita genre where lovely and light color makeup is preferred. Black eyeliner is typical. A pale complexion is preferred, so white foundation might be used. Red or black [[lipstick]] is usually seen.
[[File:Wedding lolita.jpg|thumb|Handmade Lolita dress]]
[[European culture]] has influenced Lolita fashion. The book ''[[Alice's Adventures in Wonderland|Alice in Wonderland]]'' (1865),<ref>{{harvnb|Coombes|2016|pp=33, 37}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Hardy Bernal|2011|p=199}}</ref> written by [[Lewis Carroll]],<ref name="asia-studies.com">{{harvnb|Younker |2011|p=106}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Coombes|2016|p=7}}</ref> has inspired many different brands and magazines,<ref name="L. Atkinson 2015 p. 40">{{Cite thesis |doi = 10.20381/ruor-4249|year = 2015|last1 = Atkinson|first1 = Leia|title = Down the Rabbit Hole: An Exploration of Japanese Lolita Fashion |publisher=University of Ottawa |hdl=10393/32560}}</ref> such as ''Alice Deco''.<ref name="asia-studies.com"/> The reason that the character Alice was a source of inspiration for Lolita fashion is that she was an ideal icon for the Shōjo (shoujo)-image,<ref name="L. Atkinson 2015 p. 40"/><ref>{{Cite journal |doi = 10.1080/09555803.2014.900511|title = Being Alice in Japan: Performing a cute, 'girlish' revolt|journal = Japan Forum|volume = 26|issue = 2|pages = 265–285|year = 2014|last1 = Monden|first1 = Masafumi|s2cid = 143270185}}</ref> meaning an image of eternal innocence and beauty.<ref name="ijoc.org">{{harvnb|Hinton|2013|p=1589}}</ref> The first complete translation of the book was published by Maruyama Eikon in 1910, translated under the title Ai-chan No Yume Monogatari (Fantastic stories of Ai).<ref>{{harvnb|Coombes|2016|p=45}}</ref> Another figure from [[Rococo]] that served as a source of inspiration was [[Marie Antoinette]];<ref>{{harvnb|Younker|2011|p=103}}</ref> the manga ''[[The Rose of Versailles]]'' (Lady Oscar), based on her court, was created in 1979.
 
== Popularization ==
The outfits may be accessorized with other [[prop]]s like conspicuous pocketbooks, hatboxes, handbags and other bags, sometimes in the shape of [[bat]]s, [[coffin]]s, and [[crucifix]]es. Teddy bears and other stuffed animals are used, and some brands make special "goken" teddy bears out of black leather or [[Polyvinyl chloride|PVC]]. [[Super Dollfie]]s may also be carried around .
[[File:Mana catwalk moi meme moitie.jpg|thumb|upright|left|Musician [[Mana (Japanese musician)|Mana]], pictured at a 2019 fashion show for his brand Moi-même-Moitié, is credited with helping to popularize Gothic Lolita.]]
People who have popularized the Lolita fashion include [[Yukari Tamura]], [[Mana (Japanese musician)|Mana]], and [[Novala Takemoto]]. Takemoto wrote the [[light novel]] ''[[Kamikaze Girls]]'' (2002)<ref name="A. Haijima 2013 p. 33"/><ref>{{harvnb|Staite|2012|p=51}}</ref> about the relationship between Momoko, a Lolita girl, and Ichigo, a ''[[yankī]]''. The book was adapted into a film<ref name="A. Haijima 2013 p. 33"/><ref>{{harvnb|Gatlin|2014|p=29}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Coombes|2016|p=31}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Staite|2012|p=53}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Monden|2008|p=25}}</ref>{{Excessive citations inline|date=December 2022}} and a manga in 2004. Takemoto claims that "There are no leaders within the Lolita world."{{sfn|Hardy Bernal|2007}}<ref>{{harvnb|Hardy Bernal|2007|p=3}}</ref> Mana is a musician who is known for popularizing Gothic Lolita fashion, which he calls "EGL," or "Elegant Gothic Lolita."<ref name="A. Haijima (2013)"/> He played in the rock band [[Malice Mizer]] (1992–2001) and founded the heavy metal band [[Moi dix Mois]] (2002–present). Both bands—whose members are known for eccentric expressions and elaborate costumes—are a part of the [[visual kei]] movement. Mana founded his own fashion label, known as [[Mana (Japanese musician)|Moi-même-Moitié]] in 1999, which specializes in Gothic Lolita.<ref name="Kathryn A. Hardy Bernal (2007)">{{harvnb|Hardy Bernal|2007}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Hardy Bernal|2011|pp=72–73}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Coombes|2016|p=39}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Valdimarsdótti|2015|p=22}}</ref> Both bands are very interested in the Rococo period.<ref name="Kathryn A. Hardy Bernal (2007)"/>
 
The [[Government of Japan]] has also tried to popularize Lolita fashion. The Minister of Foreign Affairs in February 2009<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.mofa.go.jp/announce/press/2009/2/0226.html|title=Press Conference, 26 February 2009|publisher=Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Japan|access-date=12 August 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170812081139/http://www.mofa.go.jp/announce/press/2009/2/0226.html|archive-date=12 August 2017}}</ref> assigned models to spread Japanese pop culture.<ref>{{Cite news|url=http://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/2013/05/31/national/association-formed-to-pitch-lolita-fashion-to-the-world/|title=Association formed to pitch 'Lolita fashion' to the world|access-date=11 August 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170811084344/http://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/2013/05/31/national/association-formed-to-pitch-lolita-fashion-to-the-world/|archive-date=11 August 2017|newspaper=The Japan Times |date=2013-05-31}}</ref><ref name="rauli.cbs.dk">{{cite journal |last=Borggreen |first=G. |year=2013 |title=Cute and Cool in Contemporary Japanese Visual Arts |journal=The Copenhagen Journal of Asian Studies |volume=29 |issue=1 |pages=39–60|doi=10.22439/cjas.v29i1.4020 |doi-access=free }}</ref><ref name="KAWAMURA0015 Y. Kawamura (2012)">{{Cite book |last=Kawamura |first=Yuniya |doi = 10.2752/9781474235327/KAWAMURA0015|chapter = The Globalization of Japanese Subcultures and Fashion: Future Possibilities and Limitations|title = Fashioning Japanese Subcultures|year = 2012|pages=126–135 |isbn = 9781474235327}}</ref><ref name="K. Koma (2013)"/> These people were given the title of Kawaa Taishi (ambassadors of cuteness).<ref name="rauli.cbs.dk"/><ref name="L. Atkinson 2015 p. 40"/> The first three ambassadors of cuteness were model [[Misako Aoki]], who represents the Lolita style of frills-and-lace, Yu Kimura, who represents the Harajuku style, and Shizuka Fujioka, who represents the school-uniform-styled fashion.<ref name="rauli.cbs.dk"/><ref>{{cite web|url=http://web-japan.org/trends/09_culture/pop090827.html|title=The Kawaii Ambassadors (Ambassadors of Cuteness)|publisher=Trends in Japan|access-date=11 August 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170811101528/http://web-japan.org/trends/09_culture/pop090827.html|archive-date=11 August 2017}}</ref> Another way that Japan tries to popularize Japanese street fashion and Lolita is by organizing the international Harajuku walk in Japan, potentially leading other countries to organize similar walks.<ref>{{harvnb|Gatlin|2014|p=66}}</ref>
Gothic Lolita was influenced and popularized by the imagery of more feminine [[visual kei|Visual Kei]] (or "visual rock") bands. Visual Kei is a Japanese form of [[rock music]] defined by bands featuring performers in elaborate [[costume]]s but whose musical style varies. [[Mana (musician)|Mana]], the [[Cross-dresser|crossdressing]] former leader and guitarist of the Visual Kei band [[Malice Mizer]] is widely credited for having helped popularise Gothic Lolita. He coined the terms [[Elegant Gothic Lolita]] (EGL) and [[Elegant Gothic Aristocrat]] (EGA) to describe the style of his own fashion label [[Moi-même-Moitié]], which was founded in 1999 and quickly established itself as one of the most coveted brands of the [[Gothic Lolita]] scene.
 
Possible reasons for the popularity of Lolita fashion outside of Japan include a growing interest in Japanese culture as well as use of the [[Internet]] as a place to share information,<ref name="F0011392106066816 Y. Kawamura 2006 p. 793-794"/><ref name="KAWAMURA0015 Y. Kawamura (2012)"/><ref>{{harvnb|Valdimarsdótti|2015|p=32}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Mikami|2011|p=46}}</ref> leading to an increase in worldwide shopping and the opportunity for enthusiastic foreign Lolitas to purchase fashion items.<ref name="Young Kang & T. Diane Cassidy (2015) pp. 371-384.">{{cite journal |url=http://eprints.hud.ac.uk/23676/ |last1=Kang |first1=Z. Young |last2=Cassidy |first2=T. Diane |year=2015 |title=Lolita Fashion: A transglobal subculture |journal=Fashion, Style & Popular Culture |volume=2 |issue=3 |pages=371–384 |doi=10.1386/fspc.2.3.371_1 |access-date=11 February 2018 |archive-date=19 August 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160819040638/http://eprints.hud.ac.uk/23676/ |url-status=live }}</ref> [[School uniforms in Japan|JK uniforms]], [[hanfu]] and Lolita are the three most popular types of clothing among China's [[Generation Z|Gen Z]] consumers.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.thepaper.cn/newsDetail_forward_15332009|title=JK汉服Lolita，"三坑少女"这个冬天有点冷|work=[[The Paper (newspaper)|The Paper]]|date=2021-11-12|language=zh-cn}}</ref> The origin of Japanese cultural influence in the West can be traced back to the late nineties when cultural goods such as [[Hello Kitty]], [[Pokémon]],<ref>{{harvnb|Mikami|2011|p=34}}</ref> and translated manga appeared in the West.<ref>{{harvnb|Mikami|2011}}</ref> Anime was already being imported to the West in the early nineties,<ref>{{harvnb|Plevíková|2017|p=106}}</ref> and scholars also mention that [[anime]] and [[manga]] caused the popularity of Japanese culture to rise.<ref name="Chancy J. Gatlin 2014 p. 37 & 61"/><ref>{{harvnb|Mikami|2011|pp=46–55}}</ref> This is supported by the idea that cultural streams have been flowing both from Japan to the West, and from the West to Japan.<ref>{{harvnb|Hardy Bernal|2011|pp=75–118}}</ref>
===Punk Lolita===
{{main|Punk Lolita}}
Punk Lolita, similar to the broad [[Punk_fashion|Punk]] style, is made popular by Gothic&Lolita brands such as Putumayo and MAXIMAM.
 
===Sweet Lolita=Motives ==
Lolita originated as a reaction against stifling [[Japanese society]], in which young people are pressured to strictly adhere to [[gender role]]s and the expectations and responsibilities that are part of these roles.<ref>{{harvnb|Hinton|2013}}</ref><ref name="Younker 2011 100">{{harvnb|Younker |2011|p=100}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news|url=http://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/2008/08/07/national/tokyos-lolita-scene-all-about-escapism/|title=Tokyo's Lolita scene all about escapismn|access-date=11 August 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170811100238/http://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/2008/08/07/national/tokyos-lolita-scene-all-about-escapism/ |archive-date=11 August 2017|newspaper=The Japan Times |date=2008-08-07|last1=Talmadge|first1= Eric}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Resistance and Self-Expression: Fashion's Power in Times of Difference|url=https://www.notjustalabel.com/editorial/resistance-and-self-expression-fashions-power-times-difference|website=notjustalabel.com|access-date=2020-05-03|archive-date=25 December 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191225015607/https://www.notjustalabel.com/editorial/resistance-and-self-expression-fashions-power-times-difference|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Fashion As Resistance: The Everyday Rebellion|url=https://www.huffpost.com/entry/fashion-as-resistance-the-everyday-rebellion_b_58a5c061e4b0fa149f9ac258|date=2017-02-16|website=HuffPost|access-date=2020-05-03|archive-date=30 November 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201130183139/https://www.huffpost.com/entry/fashion-as-resistance-the-everyday-rebellion_b_58a5c061e4b0fa149f9ac258|url-status=live}}</ref>{{Excessive citations inline|date=December 2022}} Wearing fashion inspired by childhood clothing is a reaction against this.<ref>{{Cite news|url=http://www.japantimes.co.jp/life/2013/07/02/style/lets-talk-100-percent-kawaii/|title=Let's talk 100 percent kawaii!|access-date=6 August 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170806085648/http://www.japantimes.co.jp/life/2013/07/02/style/lets-talk-100-percent-kawaii/|archive-date=6 August 2017|newspaper=The Japan Times |date=2013-07-02|last1=Thomas|first1=Samuel}}</ref><ref name="Younker 2011 100"/><ref>{{harvnb|Robinson|2014}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Hardy Bernal|2011|p=185}}</ref> This can be explained from two perspectives. Firstly, that it is a way to escape adulthood<ref name="skemman.is"/><ref name="Kathryn A. Hardy Bernal (2007)"/><ref>{{harvnb|Hardy Bernal|2011|p=51}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last=Park |first=J. Joohee |year=2010 |title=Japanese Youth Subcultures Styles of the 2000s |journal=International Journal of Costume and Fashion |volume=10 |issue=1 |pages=1–13|doi=10.7233/ijcf.2010.10.1.001 }}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Staite|2012|pp=10–12}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Mikami|2011|p=64}}</ref> and to go back to the eternal beauty of childhood.<ref>{{harvnb|Hinton|2013|p=1598}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Younker |2011|pp=100, 106}}</ref> Secondly, that it is an escape to a fantasy world, in which an ideal [[Personal identity|identity]] can be created that would not be acceptable in daily life.<ref name="A. Haijima (2013)"/><ref>{{harvnb|Peirson-Smith|2015}}</ref><ref name="X12858453158066 Osmud Rahman 2011">{{Cite journal |doi = 10.2752/175174111X12858453158066|title = "Lolita": Imaginative Self and Elusive Consumption|journal = Fashion Theory|volume = 15|pages = 7–27|year = 2011|last1 = Rahman|first1 = Osmud|last2 = Wing-Sun|first2 = Liu|last3 = Lam|first3 = Elita|last4 = Mong-Tai|first4 = Chan|s2cid = 145769507| url=https://figshare.com/articles/journal_contribution/21691850 }}</ref>
{{main|Sweet Lolita}}
Sweet Lolita (or amaloli) usually wear light-colored or colourfully and cutely patterned outfits containing a fairly high amount of lace and frills. The dresses tend to be along the knee length size and concentrate on looking as sweet and cute as possible. The fabric used may consist of not just solid colors but floral and fruit print, resulting in something sweet, little-girlish and doll like (such as the clothing worn by Momoko in [[Shimotsuma Monogatari]]/Kamikaze Girls).
 
Some Lolitas say they enjoy the dress of the subculture simply because it is fun and not as a protest against traditional Japanese society.<ref name="Y. Kawamura (2012)"/> Other motives could be that wearing the fashion style increases their self-confidence<ref name="A. Haijima 2013 p. 40">{{harvnb|Haijima|2013|p=40}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book |last=Kawamura |first=Yuniya |doi = 10.2752/9781474235327/KAWAMURA0012|chapter = Individual and Institutional Networks within a Subcultural System: Efforts to Validate and Valorize New Tastes in Fashion|title = Fashioning Japanese Subcultures|year = 2012|pages=99–114 |isbn = 9781474235327}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Berry|2017|p=55}}</ref><ref>{{Citation|title=Sugar Coated – A short documentary about Lolita Fashion| date=9 September 2013 |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0QSyv8tEgg&list=PLyR_PYYKsy2Wy1ziAHKzP11_iGA_g3v2c|access-date=2020-05-03|archive-date=8 March 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210308160047/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0QSyv8tEgg&list=PLyR_PYYKsy2Wy1ziAHKzP11_iGA_g3v2c|url-status=live}}</ref> or to express an alternative identity.<ref name="Y. Kawamura (2012)"/><ref name="Young Kang & T. Diane Cassidy (2015) pp. 371-384."/><ref name="dspace.carthage.edu"/><ref name="X12858453158066 Osmud Rahman 2011"/><ref>{{harvnb|Staite|2012|pp=81–86}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Mikami|2011|pp=62–63}}</ref>
===Wa (Kimono) Lolita===
{{main|Wa Lolita}}
Wa Lolita (or wa-loli) is the combination of traditional Japanese clothing and Lolita fashion with the name coming from the reference to Japan as "The Land of ''[[Wa (Japanese)|Wa]]''" (harmony). Often, a simplified Kimono top would be worn with a Lolita skirt. There is also [[Qi]] Lolita, which is a combination of Lolita style and traditional [[Chinese clothing]] such as the [[qipao]].
 
== Socioeconomic dimension ==
===Aristocrat===
Many of the very early Lolitas in the 1990s hand-made most of their clothing, and were inspired by the [[Japanese street fashion#Dolly kei|Dolly Kei movement]] of the previous decade.<ref name="hdl.handle.net"/> Because of the diffusion of fashion magazines people were able to use Lolita patterns to make their own clothing.{{Citation needed|reason=Where has this been said again?|date=March 2018}} Another way to own Lolita was to buy it second-hand.<ref>{{harvnb|Robinson|2014|p=47}}</ref> The do-it-yourself behaviour can be seen more frequently by people who cannot afford the expensive brands.<ref>{{harvnb|Staite|2012|p=69}}</ref>
{{main|Aristocrat (fashion)}}
Considered a more mature version of Lolita, Aristocrat gets its inspiration from what was thought to be worn in the [[Middle Ages]] and the [[19th Century]] by the [[upper class]]es in Europe and focuses on [[androgyny]] and elegance.
 
Once more retail stores began selling Lolita fashion, it became less common for Lolitas to make their own clothing.{{Citation needed|reason=
===Kodona===
Where has this been said again?|date=March 2018}} Partly due to the rise of [[e-commerce]] and [[globalization]], Lolita clothing became more widely accessible with the help of the Internet. The market was quickly divided into multiple components: one which purchases mainly from Japanese or Chinese internet marketplaces, the other making use of shopping services to purchase Japanese brands,<ref name="Young Kang & T. Diane Cassidy (2015) pp. 371-384."/> with some communities making larger orders as a group.<ref>{{harvnb|Robinson|2014|p=38}}</ref> Not every online shop delivers quality Lolita (inspired) [[Product (business)|products]], a notorious example being Milanoo (2014).<ref>{{harvnb|Robinson|2014|p=61}}</ref> Some web shops sell brand replicas, which is frowned upon by many in this community.<ref name="Chancy J. Gatlin 2014 p. 93">{{harvnb|Gatlin|2014|p=93}}</ref> A Chinese replica [[Manufacturing|manufacturer]] that is famous for her replica design is Oo Jia.<ref name="Chancy J. Gatlin 2014 p. 93"/> [[Used good|Second-hand]] shopping is also an alternative to buying new pieces as items can be bought at a lower price (albeit with varying item condition) and is the sole method of obtaining pieces that are no longer produced by their respective brand.
{{main|Kodona}}
A masculine version of Lolita inspired by what was worn by [[Victorian fashion|Victorian]] schoolboys featuring [[knickerbockers]], masculine blouses and shirts, trousers and knee socks.
 
== Sociocultural dimension ==
Kodona is a Western used term, though the term was originally featured in the first issue of the Gothic & Lolita bible.
Many Lolitas consider being photographed without permission to be rude and disrespectful;<ref>{{harvnb|Robinson|2014|p=85}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Gatlin|2014|pp=104–107}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Hardy Bernal|2011|p=221}}</ref> however, some rules differ or overlap in different parts of this community.<ref>{{harvnb|Robinson|2014|p=57}}</ref> Lolitas often host meetings in public spaces such as parks, restaurants, cafes, shopping malls, public events, and festivals.<ref>{{harvnb|Gatlin|2014|pp=103–104}}</ref> Some meetings take place at members' homes, and often have custom house rules (e.g. each member must bring their own cupcake to the meeting).<ref>{{harvnb|Gatlin|2014|p=68}}</ref> Lolita meetings are thus a social aspect of the Lolita fashion community, serving as an opportunity for members to meet one another.{{Citation needed|reason=Where has this been said again?|date=March 2018}} Many Lolitas also used to use [[Livejournal]] to communicate, but many have since switched to [[Facebook]] groups.<ref>{{harvnb|Gatlin|2014|pp=70–72}}</ref>
 
===Dandy= Terminology ==
Lolita fashion emerged decades after the publication of [[Vladimir Nabokov]]'s novel ''[[Lolita]]'' (1955).<ref name="Young Kang & T. Diane Cassidy (2015) pp. 371-384."/><ref name="M. Christopherson (2014) p. 23">{{harvnb|Christopherson|2014|p=23}}</ref> The first Japanese translation was published in 1959.<ref name="ijoc.org"/> The novel is about a middle-aged man, Humbert Humbert, who grooms and abuses a twelve-year-old girl nicknamed Lolita.<ref>{{harvnb|Hinton|2013|p=1584}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Robinson|2014|p=28}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Gatlin|2014|p=67}}</ref> Because the book focused on the controversial subject of pedophilia and underage sexuality, "Lolita" soon developed a [[Pejorative|negative connotation]] referring to a girl inappropriately sexualized at a very young age<ref>{{harvnb|Hinton|2013|p=1585}}</ref> and associated with unacceptable sexual obsession.<ref>{{harvnb|Robinson|2014|p=30}}</ref> In Japan, however, discourse around the novel instead built on the country's romanticized girls' culture (''shōjo bunka''), and came to be a positive synonym for the "sweet and adorable" adolescent girl, without a perverse or sexual connotation.<ref name="Zank"/>
{{main|Dandy (fashion)}}
The mature, masculine counterpart to Lolita, that is usually worn by men, though it can be worn by women, is inspired by what European [[upper class]] men wore in the [[19th century]].
 
''Lolita'' was made into a [[Lolita (1962 film)|movie]] in 1962, which did not show the disinterest that the titular character had in being sexualized.<ref>{{harvnb|Hinton|2013|pp=1584–1585}}</ref><ref>{{cite magazine|url=https://www.theparisreview.org/blog/2017/05/25/lolita-fashion/|title=Lolita Fashion|magazine=The Paris Review|access-date=6 August 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170806085224/https://www.theparisreview.org/blog/2017/05/25/lolita-fashion/ |archive-date=6 August 2017|date=2017-05-25}}</ref> Another film adaptation was released in [[Lolita (1997 film)|1997]]. The 17-year-old [[Amy Fisher]], who attempted to murder the wife of the 35-year-old man who had initiated a sexual relationship with her and whose crime was made into a film called ''[[The Amy Fisher Story]]'' (1993), was often called the Long Island Lolita. These films reinforced the sexual association.<ref>{{harvnb|Hinton|2013|pp=1586–1587}}</ref> Other racy connotations were created by Lolita Nylon advertisements (1964)<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.knijp.com/nylons_pantys.htm|title= Lolita Nylon Advertisements|access-date=6 August 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160710032001/http://www.knijp.com/nylons_pantys.htm|archive-date=2016-07-10|url-status=live}}</ref> and other media that used Lolita in sexual contexts.<ref name="Monden 2008 34">{{harvnb|Monden|2008|p=34}}</ref>
==Lolita Culture==
In Japan it is [[Mass-marketing|mass-marketed]] and has wide visibility particularly in the streets of [[Tokyo]] and [[Osaka]], on television, in [[manga]] (see ''[[Paradise Kiss]]'' by Ai Yazawa for an example of Lolita inspired manga) and [[computer games]]. Outside of Japan it is still a fringe fashion, although it has been spreading slowly to other regions and countries (for example, [[Hong Kong]] has a number of Lolita outlets). Lolita, along with [[Cosplay]] and other Japanese cultural phenomena, can sometimes be seen at concerts and [[anime]] conventions throughout Europe and the United States. Although being a fringe fashion, there are plenty of dedicated fans filling the gap. Lolita magazines are widely available for purchase on the internet and at Japanese bookstores, which also deal in [[anime]] and [[manga]]. Adherents outside Japan often sew their own homemade Lolita outfits, sometimes offering them for sale to make up for the difficulty of acquiring them from Japan.
 
Within Japanese culture the name refers to cuteness and elegance rather than to sexual attractiveness.<ref>{{harvnb|Peirson-Smith|2015|p=10}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book |doi = 10.2752/BEWDF/EDch6063|chapter = Street and Youth Fashion in Japan|volume = 6|year = 2010|last1 = Tidwell|first1 = Christy| title=East Asia | pages=398–403 |isbn = 9781847888556}}</ref> Many Lolitas in Japan are not aware that Lolita is associated with Nabokov's book and they are disgusted by it when they discover such a relation.<ref>{{Cite journal|doi = 10.1017/S0040557418000522|title = "Maiden's Armor": Global Gothic Lolita Fashion Communities and Technologies of Girly Counteridentity|year = 2019|last1 = Carriger|first1 = Michelle Liu|journal = Theatre Survey|volume = 60|pages = 122–146|s2cid = 166076744|doi-access = free}}</ref> The Japanese sense of "Lolita" also appears in ''[[lolicon]]'' (from "Lolita complex"),<ref>{{harvnb|Coombes|2016|p=33}}</ref><ref>{{harvnb|Hinton|2013|p=1593}}</ref> a term associated with Russell Trainer's novel ''The Lolita Complex'' (1966, translated 1969) and associated with ''[[otaku]]'' culture. The concept and genre of media reflects a blend between the aesthetic of ''kawaii'' and sexual themes in fiction.<ref name="Zank">{{cite book |last1=Zank |first1=Dinah |editor1-last=Berninger |editor1-first=M. |editor2-last=Ecke |editor2-first=J. |editor3-last=Haberkorn |editor3-first=G. |title=Comics as a Nexus of Cultures: Essays on the Interplay of Media, Disciplines and International Perspectives |date=2010 |publisher=[[McFarland & Company]] |___location=Jefferson, NC |isbn=978-0-7864-3987-4 |chapter=Kawaii vs. rorikon: The reinvention of the term Lolita in modern Japanese manga |pages=211–222}}</ref>
=== ''Gothic & Lolita Bible'' ===
One magazine in particular, the irregularly published ''Gothic & Lolita Bible'', has played an instrumental role in promoting and standardizing the style. The 100+ page magazine includes [[fashion]] tips, photos, sewing patterns, catalog descriptions, [[Interior decoration|decorating]] ideas, and even [[recipe]]s.
 
Another common confusion is between the Lolita fashion style and [[cosplay]].<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Hardy Bernal|first=Kathryn|date=2016|title=Performing Lolita: The Japanese Gothic and Lolita Subculture and Constructing Identity through Virtual Space|journal=Journal of Asia-Pacific Pop Culture|volume=1|issue=1|pages=79–102|doi=10.5325/jasiapacipopcult.1.1.0079|jstor=10.5325/jasiapacipopcult.1.1.0079|s2cid=194483476|url=https://muse.jhu.edu/article/675394}}</ref> Although both originated in Japan, they are different and should be perceived as independent from each other.<ref>{{harvnb|Staite|2012|p=2}}</ref> One is a fashion style while the other is role-play, with clothing and accessory being used to play a character. However, there may be some overlap between the groups.<ref>''De opkomst van de mangacultuur in België. Een subcultuuronderzoek.'', Lora-Elly Vannieuwenhuysen, p. 48, KU Leuven, 2014–2015.</ref> This can be seen at [[anime conventions]] such as the convention in Göteborg in which cosplay and Japanese fashion is mixed.<ref>{{harvnb|Mikami|2011|pp=5–12}}</ref> For some Lolitas, it is insulting if people label their outfit as a costume.<ref name="Y. Kawamura (2012)"/><ref>{{harvnb|Gatlin|2014|p=30}}</ref>
=== Shopping ===
Currently the heart of the Gothic and Lolita subculture, at least commercially, is the ''Marui Young'' department store in [[Shinjuku]], after its predecessor ''Marui One'' closed at the end of August 2004. This large youth-fashion oriented department store has 4 floors entirely devoted to Gothic and Lolita and related fashions.
 
=== AnimeGallery and Manga ===
<gallery>
Characters dressed in Lolita style may be found in numerous anime and manga, some of the most prominent being [[Kamikaze Girls]], [[Cardcaptor Sakura]], [[Paradise Kiss]], [[Le Portrait de Petit Cossette]], [[Sister Princess]], [[Rozen Maiden]], [[Princess Princess]], [[Tsukuyomi - Moon Phase]], [[Othello (manga)|Othello]], [[Chobits]] and [[xxxHOLiC]].Mostly they are far inferior in comparison with a real style.
File:Lolita dresses at IDO32 (20200118120309).jpg|Hime Lolita
File:Girl in pink lolita fashion.jpg|Classic Lolita
File:Gothic lolita takeshita street.jpg|Shiro/White Lolita (left) and Kuro/Black Lolita (right)
File:Nana Kitade.jpg|Sweet Lolita ([[Nana Kitade]])
File:Misako Aoki à Japan Expo 2014 (14506329019).jpg|Sweet Lolita ([[Misako Aoki]])
File:Sweet Lolita Style Women.jpg|Sweet Lolita
File:Pink gothlolita.jpg|Sweet Lolita
File:Nana Kitade 20070707 Japan Expo 22.jpg|Country Lolita (Nana Kitade)
File:Pirate loli.JPG|Pirate Lolita
File:Punk Lolita, V&A Museum.JPG|Punk Lolita
File:Stands and items at Japan Impact 2018, Switzerland; February 2018 (03).jpg|Old-School Lolita
File:Waloli.JPG|Wa-Lolita with characteristics of Guro Lolita (eyepatch)
File:Dark Lolita (Kodona Style).jpg|Ouji (a similar fashion with a more masculine appearance)
File:Two gothic lolitas in Harajuku 20050427.jpg|Gothic Lolita
File:Petit Fancy 33 Day 1 Gothic Lolita.jpg|Gothic Lolita
File:Classicloli.JPG|Elegant Gothic Aristocrat (left) and Gothic Lolita (right)
File:Light blue Qi Lolita outfit.jpg|Qi Lolita ([[Chinese clothing|Chinese]]/[[Cheongsam]] inspired Lolita fashion)
File:CWT51 cosplay 20190216 (1).jpg|[[Hanfu]] inspired Qi Lolita fashion.
</gallery>
 
== ExternalSee linksalso ==
* ''[[Kamikaze Girls]]''
* [[Kogal]]
* [[Gyaru]]
* [[Novala Takemoto]]
 
== References ==
*[http://www.avantgauche.co.uk/ Avant-Gauche.com - Gothic&Lolita Informational Database]
=== Citations ===
*[http://www.lolitasnap.com/ LolitaSnap.com - An online photocommunity for Lolita fashion]
{{Reflist}}
*[http://www.livejournal.com/community/egl/ Elegant Gothic Lolita LiveJournal community]
 
===Lolita FashionGeneral Relatedreferences Media===
{{refbegin|30em}}
* {{cite thesis |url=http://fau.digital.flvc.org/islandora/object/fau%3A39739 |last=Berry |first=B. |year=2017 |title=Ethnographic Comparison of a Niche Fashion Group, Lolita |publisher=Florida Atlantic University }}
* {{cite thesis |url=https://dspace.carthage.edu/handle/123456789/2121 |last=Christopherson |first=M. |year=2014 |title=The Power of Cute: Redefining Kawaii Culture As a Feminist Movement |publisher=Carthage College |access-date=10 February 2018 |archive-date=11 August 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170811183627/https://dspace.carthage.edu/handle/123456789/2121 |url-status=dead }}
* {{cite thesis |url=http://repository.wellesley.edu/thesiscollection/391/ |last=Coombes |first=K. |year=2016 |title=Consuming Hello Kitty: Saccharide Cuteness in Japanese Society |publisher=Wellesley College }}
* {{cite thesis |url=http://scholarworks.gsu.edu/anthro_theses/87/ |last=Gatlin |first=Chancy J. |year=2014 |title=The Fashion of Frill: The Art of Impression Management in the Atlanta Lolita and Japanese Street Fashion Community |publisher=Georgia State University }}
* {{cite thesis |url=https://eltalpykla.vdu.lt/1/32351 |last=Haijima |first=A. |year=2013 |title=Japanese Popular Culture in Latvia: Lolita and Mori Fashion |publisher=University of Latvia }}
* {{cite conference |url=http://www.aut.ac.nz/profiles/test/senior-lecturers/kathryn-hardy-bernal |last=Hardy Bernal |first=Kathryn A. |year=2007 |title=Kamikaze Girls and Loli-Goths |conference=Fashion in Fiction Conference, University of Technology, Sydney, Australia |access-date=11 February 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170811054849/http://www.aut.ac.nz/profiles/test/senior-lecturers/kathryn-hardy-bernal |archive-date=11 August 2017 |url-status=dead }}
* {{Cite thesis|last=Hardy Bernal|first=Kathryn Adele|hdl=10292/2448|title=The Lolita Complex: A Japanese fashion subculture and its paradoxes|year=2011|publisher=Auckland University of Technology|type=MPhil Thesis|url=https://openrepository.aut.ac.nz/bitstream/handle/10292/2448/HardyBernalKA2.pdf?sequence=3&isAllowed=y}}
* {{cite journal |url=http://ijoc.org/index.php/ijoc/article/view/1333 |last=Hinton |first=Perry R. |year=2013 |title=Returning in a Different Fashion: Culture, Communication, and Changing Representations of Lolita in Japan and the West |journal=International Journal of Communication |volume=7 |pages=1582–1602 }}
* {{cite thesis |url=http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:su:diva-62778 |last=Mikami |first=K. |year=2011 |title=Cultural Globalization in People's Life Experiences: Japanese Popular Cultural Styles in Sweden |publisher=Stockholm University }}
* {{Cite journal |last=Monden |first=Masafumi |year=2008 |title=Transcultural Flow of Demure Aesthetics: Examining Cultural Globalisation through Gothic & Lolita Fashion, The Japan Foundation Sydney |journal=New Voices |volume=2 |pages=21–40 |doi=10.21159/nv.02.02 |doi-access=free }}
* {{cite journal |last=Onohara |first=N. |year=2011 |title=Japan as fashion: Contemporary reflections on being fashionable |journal= Acta Orientalia Vilnensia|volume=12 |issue=1 |pages=29–41 |doi=10.15388/AOV.2011.0.1095 |doi-access=free }}
* {{cite thesis |url=http://nccur.lib.nccu.edu.tw/handle/140.119/79821 |last=Peirson-Smith |first=A. |year=2015 |title=Hey sister, can I borrow your style?: a study of the trans-cultural, trans-textual flows of the Gothic Lolita trend in Asia and beyond |publisher=City University of Hong Kong }}
* {{cite thesis |url=http://is.muni.cz/th/402388/ff_m/ |last=Plevíková |first=I. |year=2017 |title=Lolita: A Cultural Analysis |publisher=Masarykova Univerzita }}
* {{cite thesis |url=http://scholarworks.gsu.edu/anthro_hontheses/11/ |last=Robinson |first=K. |year=2014 |title=Empowered Princesses: An Ethnographic Examination of the Practices, Rituals, and Conflicts within Lolita Fashion Communities in the United States |publisher=Georgia State University }}
* {{cite thesis |url=http://eprints.utas.edu.au/15944/ |last=Staite |first=S. Abigail |year=2012 |title=Lolita: Atemporal Class-Play With tea and cakes |publisher=University of Tasmania }}
* {{cite thesis |url=https://skemman.is/handle/1946/22798 |last=Valdimarsdótti |first=I. Guðlaug |year=2015 |title=Fashion Subcultures in Japan. A multilayered history of street fashion in Japan |publisher=University of Iceland }}
* {{cite journal |url=http://www.asia-studies.com/sjeaa2011.1.html |last=Younker |first=T. |year=2011 |title=Lolita: Dreaming, Despairing, Defying |journal=Stanford Journal of East Asian Affairs |volume=11 |issue=1 |pages=97–110 }}
{{refend}}
 
== Further reading and documentaries ==
*[http://www.tokyopop.com/dbpage.php?propertycode=PKS&categorycode=BMG&page=mangapreview An English preview of the EGL inspired ''Paradise Kiss'' manga]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zV3OtzUwcPg Lolitas Of Amsterdam | Style Out There | Refinery29 (documentary) at YouTube]
*[http://doctorpepper.comicgenesis.com/ ''The Doctor Pepper Show'' + An online comic featuring EGL and Victorian Gothic themes]
* [https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTsSNI3b0jOeGic1vLxZFkfTj586iCyho Lolita Fashion documentaries (documentaires) playlist at YouTube]
*[http://www.aliceeverfalling.com/ Alice Ever Falling, A three volume illustrated novel series with heavy Alice in Wonderland themes and characters dressed in Gothic Lolita fashion]
* [http://lolita-tips.tumblr.com/post/83160633039/where-to-buy-lolita-fashion List of Lolita brands at Tumblr] (archived version at [https://web.archive.org/web/20161119221739/http://lolita-tips.tumblr.com:80/post/83160633039/where-to-buy-lolita-fashion archive], 14 August 2017 version)
* [https://www.academia.edu/19955055/Rebels_in_Frills_a_Literature_Review_on_Lolita_Subculture Rebels in Frills: a Literature Review on Lolita Subculture at Academia (thesis) from South Carolina Honors College] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190704212253/https://www.academia.edu/19955055/Rebels_in_Frills_a_Literature_Review_on_Lolita_Subculture |date=4 July 2019 }}
* [http://www.abc.net.au/radionational/programs/nightair/shoichi-aoki-interview/3525068 Shoichi Aoki Interview (2003) founder of the street fashion magazine FRUiTS at ABC Australia] (archived version at [https://web.archive.org/web/20170814072639/http://www.abc.net.au/radionational/programs/nightair/shoichi-aoki-interview/3525068 archive], 14 August 2017 version)
* [http://www.jame-world.com/uk/articles-90985-the-tea-party-club-s-5th-anniversary-starring-juliette-et-justine-q-a.html The Tea Party Club's 5th Anniversary starring Juliette et Justine: Q&A (2012) at Jame World] (archived version at [https://web.archive.org/web/20170814074205/http://www.jame-world.com/uk/articles-90985-the-tea-party-club-s-5th-anniversary-starring-juliette-et-justine-q-a.html archive], 14 August 2017 version)
* [http://www.jame-world.com/us/articles-98079-innocent-world-tea-party-in-vienna-q-a.html Innocent World Tea Party in Vienna: Q&A (2013) at Jame World] (archived version at [https://web.archive.org/web/20170814074004/http://www.jame-world.com/us/articles-98079-innocent-world-tea-party-in-vienna-q-a.html archive], 14 August 2017 version)
* [http://www.jame-world.com/us/articles-111951-the-tea-party-club-presents-revelry-q-a.html The Tea Party Club Presents: Revelry Q&A (2014) at Jame World] (archived version at [https://web.archive.org/web/20170814073942/http://www.jame-world.com/us/articles-111951-the-tea-party-club-presents-revelry-q-a.html archive], 14 August 2017 version)
 
== External links ==
=== Gothic&Lolita Brand Websites ===
{{Commons}}
*Japanese Only
* [https://lolibrary.org/ Lolita library of brands]
**[http://www.angelicpretty.com/ Angelic Pretty]
**[http://bodyline.co.jp/ Bodyline]
**[http://www.hearte.co.jp/ HeartE]
**[http://www.kathleenkitty.com/lolita/ Headdress Online]
**[http://innocent-w.jp/ Innocent World]
**[http://www.marymagdalene.jp/ Mary Magdalene]
**[http://www.millefleurs-noirs.com/ Millefleurs]
**[http://www.rakuten.co.jp/moi-meme-moitie/ Moi-même-Moitié]
**[http://www.putumayo-home.com/ Putumayo]
**[http://www.victorianmaiden.com/ Victorian Maiden]
 
{{Lolita fashion}}
*Outside Japan - Online outlets who ship internationally/outside of Japan
{{Japanese subcultures}}
**[http://www.pegasusmaiden.com AppleSugar]
{{Gothic}}
**[http://www.babyssb.co.jp/ Baby, The Stars Shine Bright]
{{Goth subculture}}
**[http://www.candyviolet.com Candy Violet]
{{Authority control}}
**[http://www.cosmates.jp/ Cosmates]
**[http://inthestarlight.com In The Starlight]
**[http://www.metamorphose.gr.jp/ Metamorphose Temps de Filles]
**[http://milk-pearl.com Milk-Pearl.com]
**[http://www.cdjapan.co.jp/jpop/essentials/mmm/ Moi-même-Moitié]
**[http://www.noirdesir.co.uk/ Noir Desir]
**[http://www.supert3ch.com/ SuperT3ch]
**[http://www.twpeacock.com/ The White Peacock]
 
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[[Category:Fashion]]
[[Category:Lolita fashion| ]]
[[Category:21st-century fashion]]
[[Category:Fashion aesthetics]]
[[Category:Gothic fashion]]
[[Category:Japanese fashion]]
[[Category:GothicJapanese fashionsubcultures]]
[[Category:Japanese terms]]
[[Category:Japanese clothing]]
 
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[[zh:蘿莉文化]]
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