Changtse: Difference between revisions

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{{Infoboxshort description|Mountain in Tibet}}

{{Infobox mountain

| Name = Changtse<br>བྱངས་རྩེ་

| Photoname = Changtse

| photo = Changtse-from-KalaPattar.jpg

| Caption =

| photo_caption =

| Elevation = 7,583 metres (24,879 feet)

| elevation_m = 7543

| Location = [[Tibet]]

| elevation_ref = <br /><small>[[List of highest mountains|Ranked 45th]]</small>

| Range = [[Himalaya|Khumbu Himal]]

| prominence_m = 497

| Prominence =

| prominence_ref = <ref>{{cite pb|pid=10638|name=Changtse}}</ref>

| Coordinates = {{coor dms|28|01|31|N|86|54|51|E|type:mountain}}

| map = China Tibet topography#China

| First ascent = October 1982

| map_size = 270

| Easiest route =snow/ice climb

| label_position = top

| translation = North Peak

| language = [[Standard Tibetan|Tibetan]]

| ___location = [[Tibet Autonomous Region]], [[China]]

| Rangerange = [[Himalaya|KhumbuMahalangur Himal]]

| coordinates = {{coord|28|01|31|N|86|54|51|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}

| coordinates_ref =

| First ascentfirst_ascent = October 1982

| Easiest routeeasiest_route = snow/ice climb

}}

{{chinese

'''Changtse''' ([[Tibetan language|Tibetan]]: "north peak") is a [[mountain]] situated between the Main Rongbuk and East [[Rongbuk Glacier]]s in Tibet immediately north of [[Mount Everest]]. It is connected to [[Mount Everest]] via the [[North Col]]. Also known as '''Bei Peak''' in [[Chinese language|Chinese]].

|s=章子峰

|t=章子峰

|p=

}}

'''Changtse''' ([[Tibetan language{{langx|Tibetan]]: "bo|བྱང་རྩེ|lit=north peak"}}, {{CJKV|c=章子峰}}) is a [[mountain]] situated between the Main Rongbuk and East [[Rongbuk Glacier]]s in [[Tibet Autonomous Region]], [[China]], immediately north of [[Mount Everest]]. It is connected to [[Mount Everest]] via the [[North Col]]. Also known as '''Bei Peak''' in [[Chinese language|Chinese]].

The given elevation of 7,543 metres is from modern Chinese mapping. Some authorities give 7,583 metres instead.

At 7,583 metres (24,879 feet), Changtse is the 34th highest mountain in the world. See [[List of highest mountains]]. Its peak is the 89th highest.

The [[Changtse Glacier]] flows north into the East [[Rongbuk Glacier]]. SomeIt thinkis possible that the secondthird highest lake in the world<ref>[http://www.highestlake.com/highest-lake-world.html#Changtse highestThe lakeHighest Lake in the worldWorld: 3. "Changtse Pool"]</ref> is in the Changtse Glacier at 6,216 metres (20,394 feet){{convert|6216|m|ft|0}}.

==Timeline==

[[*1924]] [[George Mallory]] and [[Andrew Irvine (mountaineer)|Andrew Irvine]] first to set foot on Changtse. They climbed the Easteast ridge of Changtse to reconnoiter camp sites on the East [[Rongbuk Glacier]].

*1935 During the [[1935 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition|Mount Everest Reconnaissance]] a team with [[Eric Shipton]], [[Edmund Wigram]] and [[Bill Tilman]] attempted the North Peak from their Camp IIA . On August 21 they got to within {{convert|1500|ft|m}} of the summit before very deep and soft snow forced them to turn back.<ref>Tony Astill, ''Mount Everest: The Reconnaissance 1935'', pp. 266-67.</ref>

*1952 [[1952Reconnaissance]] Reconnaissance of Changtse via Changtse Glacier by [[Edmund Hillary]] and [[George Lowe (mountaineer)|George Lowe]] and a group of [[Sherpa (people)|Sherpa]]s. They attainedreached an estimated altitudeelevation of 21,500 feet{{convert|21500|ft|m}} before turning back after running low on supplies.

[[*1982]] The [[first ascent]] of Changtse was unofficially made on [[October 3]], [[1982]], by Johan Taks of the Dutch Everest Expedition who were officially climbing Everest from the north side of Everest. However, Taks climbed ChangsteChangtse without a permit.

[[*1982]] The first official ascent of ChangsteChangtse with a permit was completed 11 days later on [[October 14]] by five members of a German expedition Udo Zehetleitner, Paul Braun, RudolphRudolf Frick, Ludwig Hösle and Martin Engler. The ascent was made via the four kilometre-long NE Ridge from the junction of the East Rongbuk Glacier and Changtse Glacier.<ref name=AAJ_1983/>

[[*1983]] The next ascent (but illegal) and also the first solo was made by Chilean climber [[Gino Casassa]] [[May 14]], [[1983]] by the same route used by the Germans.<ref name=AAJ_1984/>

[[*1986]] Changtse was climbed again by a large Chinese-Japanese expedition in [[1986]]. This expedition put eight Japanese and 16 Chinese on the summit [[May 10]] and [[May 11]], [[1986]], again via the NE Ridge from the Changtse Glacier. Also included the first ascent by a woman, Mrs. Gunsung.

[[*1986]] American climber Ed Webster made the first solo ascent via the SE face from the foot of the North Col on [[August 28]], [[1986]]. Most of this climb was done at night, taking advantage of more stable snow and ice conditions.<ref name=AAJ_1991/>

*1987 Australian climbers Rob Turner and Glen Nash reached the summit September 29, 1987 via the north face icewall (Japanese 1986 route) despite high winds.<ref name=AAJ_1988/><ref>''Wild Issue 28'' (April 1988), pp 33-36.</ref>

==Overview==

[[1952]] Reconnaissance of Changtse via Changtse Glacier by [[Edmund Hillary]] and [[George Lowe]] and group of [[Sherpa (people)|Sherpa]]s. They attained an estimated altitude of 21,500 feet before turning back after running low on supplies.

{{Himalaya annotated imagemap|caption=Southern and northern climbing routes as seen from the [[International Space Station]]. (The names on the photo are links to corresponding pages.)|align=none}}

[[File:North Col of Mount Everest.jpg|thumb|left|800px|{{center|''Changtse''}}]]

{{clear}}

==References==

[[1982]] The [[first ascent]] of Changtse was unofficially made on [[October 3]] [[1982]] by Johan Taks of the Dutch Everest Expedition who were officially climbing Everest from the north side. However, Taks climbed Changste without a permit.

{{Reflist|33em|refs=

<ref name=AAJ_1983>

{{cite aaj | title = Asia, China, Changtse | article_id=12198329401 | year=1983

| department=Climbs And Expeditions | first=Eduard | last=Geyer

| volume=25 | issue=57 | pages=294 | access-date=2025-05-26}}</ref>

<ref name=AAJ_1984>

{{cite aaj | title = Asia, China, Changtse, Illegal Ascent to Northeast Summit | article_id=12198431001 | year=1984

| department=Climbs And Expeditions | first=Gino | last=Casassa

| volume=26 | issue=58 | pages=310 | links=off | access-date=2025-05-26}}</ref>

<ref name=AAJ_1988>

{{cite aaj|title=Asia, Tibet, Changtse|article_id=12198827204 | year=1988

| department=Climbs And Expeditions|first=Louis A.|last=Whitton

| volume=30 | issue=62 | pages=272 | links=off | access-date=2025-05-26}}</ref>

<ref name=AAJ_1991>

{{cite aaj | title = Asia, Tibet, Changtse, Southeast Face, 1986 | article_id=12199128801 | year=1991

| department=Climbs And Expeditions | first=Ed | last=Webster

| volume=33 | issue=65 | pages=288 | links=off | access-date=2025-05-26}}</ref>

}}

==Bibliography==

[[1982]] The first official ascent of Changste with a permit was completed 11 days later on [[October 14]] by five members of a German expedition Udo Zehetleitner, Paul Braun, Rudolph Frick, Ludwig Hösle and Martin Engler. The ascent was made via the four kilometre-long NE Ridge from the junction of the East Rongbuk Glacier and Changtse Glacier.

* Astill, Tony. ''Mount Everest : The Reconnaissance 1935''. Published by the Author, 2005. {{ISBN|0-9549201-0-4}}

{{Authority control}}

[[1983]] The next ascent and also the first solo was made by Chilean climber Gino Casassa [[May 14]] [[1983]] by the same route used by the Germans.

[[1986]] Changtse was climbed again by a large Chinese-Japanese expedition in [[1986]]. This expedition put eight Japanese and 16 Chinese on the summit [[May 10]] and [[May 11]] [[1986]] again via the NE Ridge from the Changtse Glacier. Also included the first ascent by a woman, Mrs. Gunsung.

[[1986]] American climber Ed Webster made the first solo ascent via the SE face from the foot of the North Col on [[August 28]] [[1986]] Most of this climb was done at night taking advantage of more stable snow and ice conditions.

[[Category:Mountains of Tibet]]

[[Category:Seven-thousanders of the Himalayas]]

[[de:Changtse]]

[[fr:Changtse]]