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Like tapered pins, threaded pins must be set in a pin block of fairly hard wood, such as [[cherry wood|cherry]] or [[white oak]], or they will not stay in tune well.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.sligoharps.com/8book.pdf |title=Chapter 8. Fabricating the Neck and Pillar|format=Book chapter|website=sligoharps.com|access-date=1 February 2023}}</ref> Some pin block woods come from endangered trees.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/restricted-and-endangered-wood-species/ |title = Restricted and Endangered Wood Species {{!}} The Wood Database}}</ref> Some specialized plywoods can also be used (piano pin block stock or the die maker's ply used for [[rotary die]]s).<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.sligoharps.com/2book.pdf+|title=Chapter 2. Creating, Buying, Borrowing or Stealing a Design|format=Book Chapter|website=sligoharps.com|access-date=1 February 2023}}</ref>
Threaded tuners are durable, will take very high string tensions. They do not push outwards on the hole and wedge the wood apart, which can reduce the risk of splitting it. They can be set in [[blind hole]]s, which allows the wood to retain more strength for a given weight.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://folcharp.com/zitherpins.html |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080724215944/http://www.folcharp.com/zitherpins.html |archive-date=2008-07-24 |title=FolcHarp - Zither pins}}</ref> They can, however, also be set in holes drilled right through the wood, to look like older pins. Threaded pins can be installed with an [[arbor press]], and do not need to be re-set, but should be backed off a few turns when changing a string to keep pin height even.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://manufacturing.dustystrings.com/harps/accessories-hardware/hardware/threaded-tuning-pins |title = Threaded Harp Tuning Pins {{!}} Dusty Strings}}</ref><ref>[https://web.archive.org/web/20170810021404/http://manufacturing.dustystrings.com/application/files/2014/7516/8049/Replacing_Harp_Strings.pdf Replacing harp strings]
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