Textile testing: Difference between revisions

Revision as of 15:10, 28 January 2023

Revision as of 11:52, 3 June 2023

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{{Short description|Process of measuring the properties and performance of textiles}}

[[File:Scientists are working in the lab.9.jpg|alt=<nowiki>[[Microscopic]] analysis</nowiki>|thumb|Scientists are working in the lab]]

'''Textile testing''' is the [[process]] of [[Measurement|measuring]] the properties and [[Textile performance|performance]] of [[textile]] materials—textile testing includes [[Physical test|physical]] and [[Chemical test|chemical]] testing of [[Rawraw material|raw materials]]s to finished products.

Textile testing assists textile production in selecting various types of [[Fiber|fibersfiber]]s and their transformation into [[yarn]], fabric, and finished goods such as clothing. The materials are evaluated at multiple stages of production to qualify, compare, and [[Technical standard|standardize]] to meet the norms of different production stages and [[consumer]] [[Requirement|requirementsrequirement]]s. The testing of [[Textile|textilestextile]]s is carried out in [[Laboratory|laboratories]] and in the field using simple to sophisticated testing methods and equipment. In textile testing, many analytical instruments and online monitoring systems are utilized. Textile testing adds value to different agencies involved in the textile supply chain, from production, distribution and consumption.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book |last=Booth |first=John E. |url=http://archive.org/details/principlesoftext0000boot |title=Principles of textile testing; an introduction to physical methods of testing textile fibres, yarns, and fabrics |date=1969 |publisher=New York, Chemical Pub. Co. |others=Internet Archive |pages=1–4}}</ref><ref name=":1">{{Cite book |last=Jewel |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=G7i2klz1fEgC&q=textile+testing |title=Textile Testing |date=2005 |publisher=APH Publishing |isbn=978-81-7648-748-1 |pages=1–5 |language=en}}</ref>

[[Units of textile measurement|Multiple units]] are utilized to measure textile fibers, threads, yarns, and fabrics.

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=== Timeline of the important tests and equipment's ===

* [[Colorimetry]] that objectively evaluates color dates back to the latter half of the 1960s.<ref>{{Cite book |last1=Timar-Balazsy |first1=Agnes |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=UtUrBgAAQBAJ&dq=textile+testing+history+measurement&pg=PA146 |title=Chemical Principles of Textile Conservation |last2=Eastop |first2=Dinah |date=2012-09-10 |publisher=Routledge |isbn=978-1-136-00034-8 |pages=146 |language=en}}</ref>

* [[Uster Technologies|Uster yarn evenness tester]]: In 1944-19481944–1948, Uster developed its first evenness tester.<ref name=":3" />

== Objectives ==

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=== Selection of raw material ===

Variable quality is a characteristic shared by all raw materials. Fibers have different colors, fineness, and length, yarns vary in count, twist, and strength, and fabrics vary with density, [[Units of textile measurement|thread count]], weight, and [[Dimensional stability (fabric)|shrinkage]] levels. The proper selection of raw materials facilitates the smooth operation of subsequent stages. <ref name=":1" />

=== Product testing ===

The objective of product testing is to ensure that the finished product performs as expected.<ref name=":1" />

== Testing standards ==

Specific organizations have developed testing procedures, such as the [[American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists]] (AATCC) and the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM). These testing procedures allow for accurate assessment of textile product properties, such as the relative strength or tenacity of the fibers, etc.<ref name=":2">{{Cite book |last=Elsasser |first=Virginia Hencken |url=http://archive.org/details/textiles00virg |title=Textiles : concepts and principles |date=2005 |publisher=New York, NY : Fairchild Publications |others=Internet Archive |isbn=978-1-56367-300-9 |pages=20, 25}}</ref>

Since 1921, the AATCC has been serving the textile industry. During [[World War I]], when the Atlantic blockade prevented European dyes from entering America and the newly formed American dye manufacturers struggled to provide consistent products, the need for American textile testing methods became apparent.<ref>{{Cite web |title=History |url=https://www.aatcc.org/history/ |access-date=2022-11-21 |website=AATCC |language=en-US}}</ref> The AATCC has developed over two hundred textile standards, test methods, evaluation procedures, and monographs. These specifications are published annually in the AATCC Technical Manual.<ref>{{Cite web |title=AATCC Testing |url=https://www.aatcc.org/testing/ |access-date=2022-11-21 |website=AATCC |language=en-US}}</ref>

The [[American National Standards Institute]] approves the textile performance standards set by [[ASTM International]].{{sfn|Tortora|Collier|1997|page=[https://archive.org/details/understandingtex00tort 20, 21]}} Other testing agencies or bodies that are recognized or accepted as international standards based on contracts include the following:{{sfn|Wang|2016|pages=[https://books.google.com/books?id=oABKCgAAQBAJ 25, 19]}}

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== Fiber testing ==

Textile testing is conducted at various stages, including raw materials, fibers, yarn, fabric, and finished product.

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The testing of fabrics offers a comprehensive review of the various tests that can be performed on fabrics.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Hu |first=Jinlian |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ybekAgAAQBAJ&q=fabric+package+test |title=Fabric Testing |date=2008-09-09 |publisher=Elsevier |isbn=978-1-84569-506-4 |language=en}}</ref> Fabric testing includes measurements such as [[Units of textile measurement#Grams per square metre (GSM)|fabric weight]], fabric width, [[Dimensional stability (fabric)|shrinkage]] testing, [[colour fastness|colour fastness to washing]], [[Lightfastness|fastness to light]], [[Pill (textile)|pilling]], tearing and bursting strength, etc.

The primary consideration in fabric selection is the end use. The fabric needs vary greatly depending on the application. Similar types of fabric may not be suitable for all applications. <ref name=":17">{{Cite book |last=Smith |first=Betty F. |url=http://archive.org/details/textilesinperspe0002smit |title=Textiles in perspective |date=1982 |publisher=Englewood Cliffs, N.J. : Prentice-Hall |others=Internet Archive |isbn=978-0-13-912808-0 |pages=3, 10, 17, 49}}</ref>{{Rp|page=18}}

Fabric weight or GSM is an important parameter while producing different fabrics. A carpet requires a fabric with 1300 GSM, but a robe may be made with 160 GSM. Certainly, fabrics for clothes and carpets have distinct weights.<ref name=":17" />{{Rp|page=18}}

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|[[Sheer fabric]]

|

|Sheer curtains, [[Lingerie]] items, [[Wedding dress|Wedding dresses]]es,

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|50-150

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|Medium weight

|Bottom weight

|[[Skirt]], [[Trousers]], Kind of [[Denim|denimsdenim]]s, and [[Suit|Suits]]s

|-

|300-600

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==== Breathability test ====

Water vapor transmission rate, also called [[moisture vapor transmission rate]] (MVTR) is a method of testing or measuring the [[Permeation|permeability]] for [[Vaporvapor barrier|vapor barriers]]s.

* ASTM F2298 – 03 (test for clothing materials such as protective clothing, laminates, and membranes) a similar test by [[Japanese Standards Association]] is JSA – JIS L 1099.<ref>{{cite web|title=JSA – JIS L 1099 – Testing methods for water vapor permeability of textiles {{!}} Engineering360|url=https://standards.globalspec.com/std/1592586/JIS%20L%201099|access-date=2021-07-03|website=standards.globalspec.com|archive-date=2021-07-09|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210709182434/https://standards.globalspec.com/std/1592586/JIS%20L%201099|url-status=live}}</ref>

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[[File:Military helmet (3633205430).jpg|thumb|A thermal manikin being used to test helmet padding]]

A [[thermal manikin]] is a device for analysing the thermal interface of the human body and its environment. It assesses the [[thermal comfort]] and [[Clothing insulation|insulation]] properties of clothing, such as protective gear for the military.{{sfn|Parsons|2002|page=[https://books.google.com/books?id=4oxA6W_Os50C&q=thermal+manikin&pg=PA182 182]}}{{sfn|Yarborough|Nelson|2005|page=[https://books.google.com/books?id=pbnN_SL4H9AC&q=thermal+manikin&pg=PA27 27]}}

==== Kawabata evaluation system ====

[[Kawabata evaluation system]] measures the mechanical properties of the textiles, such as [[Tension (physics)| tensile strength]], [[Shear stress| shear strength]], surface friction, and roughness, The Kawabata evaluation system predicts human responses and understands the perception of softness. It can also be used to figure out the short-term heat transfer properties that are responsible for the feeling of coolness when fabrics touch the skin while being worn.{{sfn|Allerkamp|2010|page=[https://books.google.com/books?id=RNlfJ1CFKoQC&q=kawabata+evaluation+system&pg=PA53 53]}}<ref>{{Cite journal |last1=Harwood |first1=R. J. |last2=Weedall |first2=P. J. |last3=Carr |first3=C. |date=1990 |title=The use of the Kawabata Evaluation System for product development and quality control |url=https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1478-4408.1990.tb01244.x |url-status=live |journal=Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists |volume=106 |issue=2 |pages=64–68 |doi=10.1111/j.1478-4408.1990.tb01244.x |issn=1478-4408 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210709182901/https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1478-4408.1990.tb01244.x |archive-date=2021-07-09 |access-date=2021-07-03}}</ref>

== See also ==

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== References ==

<references />