Nottingham

City of Nottingham

Geography
Status:	Unitary, City (1897)
Region:	East Midlands
Ceremonial County:	Nottinghamshire
Historic county:	Nottinghamshire
Area: - Total	Ranked 274th 74.61 km²
Admin. HQ:	Nottingham
Grid ref.:	Template:Mmukpc prim
ONS code:	00FY
Demographics
Population: - Total (2004 est.) - Density	Ranked 27th 275,100 3,687 / km²
Ethnicity:	84.9% White 6.5% S. Asian 4.3% Afro-Caribbean
Politics
Arms of Nottingham City Council Nottingham City Council nottinghamcity.gov.uk
Leadership:	Leader & Cabinet
Executive:	Labour
MPs:	Graham Allen, John Heppell, Alan Simpson

Nottingham is a city (the county town of Nottinghamshire) in the East Midlands of England. The centre of Nottingham lies on the River Leen and its southern boundary follows the course of the River Trent, which flows from Stoke to the Humber.

The City of Nottingham boundaries are tightly drawn and exclude several suburbs and towns that are usually considered part of Greater Nottingham, including Arnold, Carlton, West Bridgford, Beeston and Stapleford. Outlying towns and villages include Hucknall, Eastwood, Tollerton, Ruddington, Ilkeston and Long Eaton of which the last two are in Derbyshire. The geographical area of Greater Nottingham includes several local authorities: Gedling, Broxtowe, Rushcliffe, Ashfield, Erewash and Amber Valley.

The main suburbs within the City of Nottingham include St. Anns, Bakersfield, Bulwell, Lenton, Clifton and Sneinton.

The 2001 census recorded a population of 270,300 in Nottingham itself, and 613,723 living in the surrounding conurbation (Greater Nottingham). The nearby East Midlands City of Leicester has more people than the City of Nottingham, but its metropolitan area is not as big or as populous as Nottingham's.

Despite its fame for the high ratio of females to males, given at various times as between 3:1 to 6:1, in 2001, the official ratio was published as 1.015:1.

The heart of the city is the Old Market Square (the market moved in the 1920s), the largest such surviving in Europe, which underwent a major redevelopment in 2006. Most of the main shopping streets are around the square. The Council House, whose disproportionately tall dome can be seen for miles around, is at the top of the square.

A bohemian quarter of the city known as Hockley has arisen in recent years, situated close to the Lace Market area.

According to the Office of the Deputy Prime Minister, Nottingham is one of the English regions eight core cities. Nottingham is the fastest growing city in England, and second fastest growing in the whole of the UK, behind only Glasgow.

In 2004 Nottingham came under national scrutiny after a series of gun-crime related murders [1], earning it nicknames such as 'Assassination City' and 'Shottingham' [2]. The city and local police force have denied that this reputation is fair, pointing out that a number of other cities have higher crime rates [3], and sought to rebuild the city's reputation [4]. Recent statistics have suggested that the number of offences involving weapons declined by nearly 50 per cent between 2003 and 2005 [5]. However Nottingham has the worst burglary rates in the UK, according to research by a national insurer.[6]. The article also carries doubts expressed by the Nottinghamshire Constabulary about the validity of the comparison of different cities, such as the inclusion or otherwise of urban areas and the effect of a large student population.

History

The first evidence of settlement dates from pre-Roman times, and it is clear that the Romans also lived in the area.

An early name for Nottingham was "tigguo cobauc" which means "a place of cavy dwellings." Anglo-Saxon invaders after 600 AD settled in the ___location, under their chieftan Snot. Snot brought together his people in an area where the historic Lace Market in the City can now be found. The place was called "Snotingaham" -- literally, "the home of Snot's people." (Inga = the people of. Ham = home.) As with many place names throughout England, the word has since been modified to "Nottingham."

Founded as a Saxon settlement, Nottingham was later captured by the Danes (Vikings) and in the 9th century became one of the five boroughs (fortified towns) of the Danelaw. From its earliest beginnings, parts of the settlement have included man-made caves, dug into soft sandstone. During this period the settlement went by various names including Tigguo Cobauc ("House of Caves") and Snottingaham (from the Anglo-Saxon for "Snot's people", Snot being a local chieftain). The populace is grateful that the S became lost in the course of history.

In the 11th century a castle was constructed on a sandstone outcrop by the River Trent. The Anglo-Saxon settlement on the hill now occupied by the Lace Market around St. Mary's Church developed into the English Borough of Nottingham and housed its Town Hall and Courts. A settlement also developed around the castle on the hill opposite and was the French borough supporting the Normans in the Castle. Eventually, the space between was built on as the town grew and the Market Square became the focus of Nottingham several centuries later.

The town became a county corporate in 1449, giving it effective self-government, in the words of the charter, "for eternity".

A tram passes the Council House in the Old Market Square

The legend of Robin Hood first arose in the Middle Ages. Robin Hood is said to have lived in Sherwood Forest, to the north of the town, with the Sheriff of Nottingham as his greatest enemy. While the legends are almost certainly untrue, particularly in their details, they have had a major impact on Nottingham, with Robin Hood imagery a popular choice for local businesses and many modern tourist attractions exploiting the legend.

The English Civil War began in Nottingham in 1642, when King Charles I raised his standard upon Nottingham Castle. The original castle was demolished by the victorious Parliamentarians in 1651. The castle mansion was built for the Duke of Newcastle on this site, but was gutted in 1831 during riots over the Reform Bill, the then occupant being a known opponent of extending the franchise. In 1878 it was reopened as the first council run art museum in the UK outside London.

A major industry in the 19th century was lace-making, with Nottingham lace becoming famous. While some lace-making still goes on in the city, it is no longer of much economic significance. Also in the 19th century, the Nottingham Park Estate was built on the castle's former deer park.

Nottingham was elevated to city status as part of the Diamond Jubilee celebrations for Queen Victoria in June 1897.

No fewer than three pubs in Nottingham claim the title of England's Oldest Pub. The contenders for the crown are Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem near the castle, The Bell on the Old Market Square, and The Salutation on Maid Marian Way. A recent television documentary tested the claimants and found that, while each has its own evidence, none can claim exclusivity. The Trip, while the oldest building and oldest ___location, was for most of its early life a brewery and not a public house. The Salutation sits on the oldest recognised public house site, but the current building is comparatively recent. The Bell, although not in such an antiquated ___location, does boast the oldest public house building.

Nottingham Caves

The cave network was substantially expanded and became home to a large proportion of the poorer populace, particularly those involved in the tanning industry. The caves were gradually abandoned in the 18th and 19th centuries, but came into use again as air raid shelters during World War II. A section of the cave network under the Broadmarsh shopping centre is now open as a tourist attraction, and some parts are still used as pub cellars.

Another section of the caves, under the castle, is still in regular use as the indoor rifle range of Nottingham Rifle Club. Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem Inn, partly built into the cave system below the castle and named for its role as a major meeting point for those going on the Crusades in the Middle Ages, lays claim to being the oldest pub in Britain. However, this is due mainly to the spurious date of 1189 painted on the side of the Inn, and the building itself only dates from the 16th or 17th century; the caves themselves may date to the 11th century and could have been the site of the brewhouse for the castle. Two other Nottingham pubs—Ye Olde Salutation Inn and the Bell Inn—both lay claim to being the oldest in Nottingham. Dendrochronology dating evidence from roof timbers in the Salutation give a date for the building of c.1420 with similar dates for the Bell. The roots of the multiple claims can be traced to various subtleties of definition in terms such as "public house" and "inn".

Famous People from Nottingham

Famous people born in or near Nottingham include William Booth, founder of The Salvation Army, William Lee inventor of the stocking frame, Jesse Boot founder of Boots the Chemists, mathematician George Green (of Green's Mill), authors Alan Sillitoe and D.H. Lawrence, the fashion designer Paul Smith, musicians the Stereo MCs, Deep Purple drummer Ian Paice and Iron Maiden front man Bruce Dickinson, comedian Daniel Attenborough, and the actors Richard Beckinsale, Samantha Morton Su Pollard and Donald Pleasence. Stella Rimington, educated at Nottingham High School became the first female head of MI5. . Olympics ice skating gold medalists Jayne Torvill and Christopher Dean. The poet Lord Byron resided at Newstead Abbey and is buried at nearby Hucknall along with his mathematical daughter Ada Lovelace. The serial killer, Harold Shipman, was born and grew up in Nottingham.

Population

year	population
1801	28,861
1811	34,253
1821	40,415
1831	50,614
1841	52,614
1851	58,419
1861	75,765
1871	86,621
1881	159,263
1891	177,078 (or 213,877)
1901	239,743
1911	259,904
1921	268,801
1931	264,842
1941	no census
1951	306,008
1961	311,899
1971	300,675
1981	278,200
1991	273,300
2001	266,988

Government

Nottingham has since April 1, 1998 been a unitary authority, and not been governed by Nottinghamshire County Council. It was a district under Nottinghamshire between April 1 1974 and March 31 1998 - and before then was a county borough. Nottingham received a City Charter from Queen Victoria in 1897. As a result of a Royal Charter of 1449 the then Borough of Nottingham was made into a distinct County with total independence from the shire county of Nottinghamshire. It was formerly the administrative centre of Nottinghamshire. The County Council's main offices were based in Shire Hall from 1889 to after the Second World War - this area was considered an extra-parochial area outside the county borough of Nottingham. The present County Hall at West Bridgford is outside the city limits. Nottingham is the de facto capital city of the East Midlands region, and is the home to the Government Office for the East Midlands.

Nottingham City Council elects 55 councillors representing 20 wards and is currently controlled by the Labour party. Elections to the council are held every four years the last election returned 38 Labour 9 Liberal Democrats 7 Conservative and 1 Independent.

Politics

Nottingham City is divided into three parliamentary constituencies— Nottingham North, East and South— Nottingham North has been represented by the Labour MP, Graham Allen, since 1987. The other two city constituencies have returned Labour MPs since 1992. The three principle suburban boroughs approximate to three parliamentary constituencies, namely Broxtowe, Gedling and Rushcliffe. Broxtowe and Gedling have returned Labour MPs since 1997. Rushcliffe has returned Ken Clarke (former Chancellor of the Exchequer) since 1970. Labour won Broxtowe and Gedling in the landslide of 1997 prior to which they were held by the Conservatives. The status quo was maintained in 2001 and 2005; however, all with reduced majorities and increased votes for the Liberal Democrats.

Notable education establishments

File:Trent Building and Lake.JPG

The University of Nottingham and Highfields Park

Nottingham is home to two universities: the University of Nottingham and Nottingham Trent University as well as over 35,000 full-time students. The University of Nottingham's teaching hospital, Queen's Medical Centre, is the largest hospital in the UK. Nottingham Trent University is one of the country's new generation of trade schools.

Other notable educational institutions include the further education college New College Nottingham, Nottingham High School, Nottingham High School for Girls and The Nottingham Bluecoat School and Technology College and Djanogly City Academy.

The Nottingham School of Fashion is a fashion school respected around the country and produced the designer Paul Smith.

Industry

Nottingham is home to the headquarters of Boots the Chemists, founded in the city by John Boot in 1849 and substantially expanded by his son Jesse Boot (Lord Trent). Other large current employers include the credit reference agency Experian, the energy company Powergen, the tobacco company John Player & Sons and the American Credit card company Capital One, whose European offices are situated by the side of Nottingham station.

Until recently bicycle manufacturing was a major industry, the city being the birthplace of Raleigh Cycles in 1886 and later joined by Sturmey-Archer, the creator of 3-speed hub gears. However, Raleigh's factory on Triumph Road, famous as the ___location for the filming of Saturday Night and Sunday Morning, was demolished in Summer 2003 to make way for the University of Nottingham's expansion of Jubilee Campus.

Many of the UKs railway ticket machines and platform departure boards run software written by Atos Origin in their offices in Nottingham. Other major industries in the city include engineering, textiles, knitwear and electronics.

Nottingham is progressively changing from an industrial city to one based largely in the service sector. Tourism—particularly from the United States and the Far East—is becoming an increasingly significant part of the local economy.

Transport

Nottingham is close to the M1 motorway and is also well-served by train services from Nottingham station to London, Birmingham and the north. The nearby Nottingham East Midlands Airport, served by low-cost international airlines, makes the city easily accessible from other parts of the world providing daily services to many principal European destinations such as Paris, Frankfurt and Amsterdam, internal flights to Edinburgh and Belfast and limited services to trans-continental destinations such as Barbados, Sanford and Florida. Nearby Robin Hood Airport Doncaster Sheffield also provides domestic European and Trans-Atlantic services. Birmingham International airport is about one hour's drive away, providing flights to most principal European cities, New York, Boston Toronto, Dubai and the Indian Sub-Continent.

Internally, the city has an extensive bus network. Nottingham City Transport (NCT) run frequent services every few minutes within all parts of the city area, and, along with trent barton, run services out of the city to the surrounding countryside and towns such as Mansfield, Southwell, Loughborough and Long Eaton. A tram system known as Nottingham Express Transit opened in 2004, running from Hucknall in the north to the city's railway station. An additional spur to/from Phoenix Park serves as a Park and Ride Station close to the M1 motorway (Junction 26). Planned future lines will create a substantial tram network across the city and its western suburbs.

Unlike many British cities of similar size, Nottingham does not possess a large overground rail network; however, the re-opening of the Robin Hood line in the early 1990s has linked Nottingham with its close neighbours of Kirkby-in-Ashfield, Sutton-in-Ashfield and Mansfield. Older lines still connect the city to Beeston, Burton Joyce, Netherfield and Carlton.

Nottingham is bucking the national trend, as in the city bus use is growing while employment rates are rising [7]. This is a result of the city council, as well as the two principal operators, NCT and trent barton, making multi-million-pound investments in some of the newest fleets in the country. NCT was also the first transport operator in the UK to use RFID technology for its EasyRider bus passes, introduced in 2000. The two operators are also frequent winners of the National Bus Operator of the Year award.

Faith

Nottingham is a cathedral city, as The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Barnabas is located on Derby road. This was designed by the architect A. W. N. Pugin was consecrated in 1844 and is the cathedral church for the Roman Catholic Diocese of Nottingham which covers Derbyshire, Leicestershire, Nottinghamshire and Lincolnshire.

Nottingham's Anglicans fall under the Diocese of Southwell and Nottingham, based at Southwell Minster in Southwell. Nottingham has three historic parish churches all of which date back to medieval times. St. Mary the Virgin, in the Lace Market is the oldest foundation (dating from the eighth or ninth centuries) but the building is at least the third on the site dating from 1377 to 1485. St. Mary's is considered the mother church of the City and Civic Services are held here, including the welcome to the new Lord Mayor of Nottingham each year. St. Peter's in the heart of the city is the oldest building in continuous use in Nottingham with traces of building starting in 1180. St. Nicholas was rebuilt after destruction in the Civil War.

Non-conformism was strong from the seventeenth century onwards and a variety of chapels and meeting rooms proliferated throughout the town. Sadly many of these grand buildings have been demolished, including Halifax Place Chapel, but some have been re-used, notably the Unitarian Chapel on High Pavement which is now a public house.

William Booth, the founder of the Salvation Army, was born in Nottingham in 1829.

In Nottingham one can find places of worship for all the major world religions, including Islam, Hinduism, Sikhism and Taoism. The Sinagogue on Shakespeare Street is particularly well appointed.

Culture

A view of the Nottingham skyline

Nottingham has two main theatres, the Nottingham Playhouse and the Theatre Royal (which also houses the Royal Concert Hall). There are also several art galleries which often receive national attention, particularly the Nottingham Castle Museum and the Angel Row gallery (attached to the main library). Both of the city's universities also put on a wide range of plays, concerts, and other events throughout term time.

There is a growing classical music scene with long established groups such as the city's Symphony Orchestra, Philharmonic Orchestra, Harmonic Society, Bach Choir, Early Music Group Musica Donum Dei and the Symphonic Wind Orchestra giving regular performances in the city.

The annual Goose Fair is always popular, although in recent years this ancient festival has been marred by incidences of violent crime and other public order problems. More generally the city is regarded as having a diverse nightlife with many clubs and bars in the centre of town that are popular amongst both the local and student communities.

Nottingham won the Britain in Bloom competition, in the Large City category, in 1997, 2001 and 2003. It also won the Entente Florale Gold Award in 1998.

Nottingham is known for its large teenage alternative scene (Emo, Punk, Goth etc.), the heartland of which is Old Market Square which is currently being redeveloped, to their dismay. Another major hotspot is Rock City.

Tourism

Popular tourist attractions in Nottingham include Nottingham Castle, Caves of Nottingham, the Galleries of Justice, and the Tales of Robin Hood on Maid Marian Way, as well as the City's ancient pubs. There are a number of parks and gardens around Nottingham that are popular among tourists and residents. These include Wollaton Park (over 500 acres) next to the University, with Sherwood Forest, Rufford Country Park, Creswell Crags and Clumber Park being much further away from the city itself.

Sport

The city is home to two football teams: Nottingham Forest (currently in the Football League One) who under their most famous manager, the late Brian Clough, won the European Cup twice in succession; and Notts County (who play in the Football League Two) and who are the oldest Football League team in the UK, and indeed the world having been founded in 1862 (a year before the establishment of the Football Association). The Trent Bridge cricket ground, home of Nottinghamshire County Cricket Club, winners of the 2005 County Championship, is frequently a venue for international Test matches.

All three famous sports venues are within sight of each other even though the River Trent separates Trent Bridge and Forest's stadium (known as the City Ground and next to the cricket ground) from Notts County's pitch. As a curiousity the County Ground is actually in the City of Nottingham and the City Ground is in the County of Nottinghamshire the river forming the boundary. Further more, Forest should not be confused with The Forest which is an (open) green space where Goose Fair (see above) is held.

Also in the city is the National Ice Centre, a large ice skating rink; the city's links to ice skating can be traced back to arguably its most famous children of recent times, Olympic ice dancing champions Jayne Torvill and Christopher Dean who collected a unamious 6.0 score. The NIC is used as a training and competiton venue for Speed skating, sledge hockey and figure skating and receives an annual grant from bodies such as Sport England to maintain and fund these sports.

The NIC is the home of the Nottingham Panthers ice hockey club, founded in 1946 and currently one of the biggest and best supported clubs in the United Kingdom. There is a thriving junior ice hockey programme which is also based at the centre. Since 2001, Nottingham has been the host city of the annual ice hockey Play-Off Championship Finals weekend, which attracts fans from many different parts of the country.

The city's rugby union side, Nottingham R.F.C. are currently based in Beeston but are currently preparing a new venue in West Bridgford.

There is a large tennis centre, where the annual Samsung Open is held in the weeks immediately prior to Wimbledon and has been used as warm-up practice by Greg Rusedski.

The National Water Sports Centre is based at Holme Pierrepont, with a 2000m regatta lake for rowing, canoeing and sailing, and a white water slalom course fed from the river. A number of other sailing, rowing and canoeing clubs are also based along the River Trent, as is the boatbuilder Raymond Sims.

Entertainment

The National Ice Centre doubles as Nottingham Arena. Mainstream and popular bands play in the arena on tour. For less mainstream bands, and a generally more intimate atmosphere, there is an award-winning rock music venue called Rock City. Many other smaller venues dot the city, one being The Rescue Rooms, where even less mainstream bands often perform.

Nottingham has a great reputation for a lively pub and club scene.

In the 1980s, Nottingham was barely mentioned in the Good Food Guide; but now there are several restaurant entries and a range of cuisine reflecting the ethnic diversity of the city. The Nottingham Restaurant Awards play a leading role in promoting the industry.

New Buildings on the South Side of the Lace Market area.

The large number of students in the city bolsters the nighttime entertainment scene. There are several well established areas of the city centre for entertainment such as Lace Market, Hockley, The Waterfront and The Corner House.

Shopping

There are two main shopping centres in Nottingham: Victoria Centre and Broadmarsh shopping centre, with two smaller centres being the Exchange Arcade and the Flying Horse Walk (the latter once a famous hotel). The Bridlesmith Gate area has extensive designer shops, and is also the home of the original Paul Smith boutique. There are also various side streets and alleys that hide some interesting and often overlooked buildings and shops; Such as poultry walk, West end Arcade, hurts yard, exchange walk and numerous others, they have hairdressers, specialist music shops, art studios and spray paint shops, retro and second hand shops.

At least four major department stores also operate in Nottingham: House of Fraser, John Lewis, Debenhams, and Marks & Spencer. John Lewis was until recently called Jessops, even though owned by John Lewis since 1933. It changed its name in 2002 after a refurbishment. Experian's Town Futures Retail Report for 2005 rated Nottingham as the fourth best shopping area in the UK. Hockley Village caters to alternative tastes with shops like Ice Nine and Void, famous across the city. The Broadmarsh Shopping Centre is set to be redeveloped to a greater standard in the near future.

Media

The BBC has its East Midlands headquarters in Nottingham. BBC East Midlands Today is broadcast from the city every weeknight at 6:30. Central TV was broadcast from Nottingham on ITV until recently, but has now been moved to Birmingham. This decision was controversial and although a petition was set up to try to stop it, the TV studios where shut down in early 2005. Central News still keep a news bureau in the city, though.

Several radio stations broadcast in the city: BBC Radio Nottingham, 96 Trent FM and Heart 106 (formerly Century FM) are the main stations, along with Classic Gold GEM and student radio on AM. Heart 106 has its headquarters in the same business park as the BBC, while Trent FM's (and GEM-AM's) building is on the other side of the Nottingham City Centre near to Nottingham castle.

Student Radio is broadcast in the city permanently by URN (University Radio Nottingham). URN has won many awards for quality and which is broadcast on medium wave (AM) around the main campus (University Park) at 1350 kHz and from Sutton Bonnigton campus on 1602 kHz. It is also streamed over the internet at www.urn1350.net

Nottingham has one daily newspaper, Nottingham Evening Post. There are also a number of weekly/monthly publications available which focus on individual areas within the city, for instance the Hucknall and Bulwell Dispatch.

A community news project called Nottinghamshire Indymedia, which was set up in April 2005, works within a variety of groups to create community media and collaboration between communities throughout the county. The Notts Indymedia Videogroup makes community film and at the centre of the project is an online news site, which is run on the principles of open publishing.