Changtse (Tibetan: "north peak") is a mountain situated between the Main Rongbuk and East Rongbuk Glaciers in Tibet immediately north of Mount Everest. It is connected to Mount Everest via the North Col. Also known as Bei Peak in Chinese.
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At 7,583 metres (24,879 feet), Changtse is the 34th highest mountain in the world. See List of highest mountains. Its peak is the 89th highest.
The Changtse Glacier flows north into the East Rongbuk Glacier. Some think the second highest lake in the world is in the Changtse Glacier at 6,216 metres (20,394 feet).
Timeline
1924 George Mallory and Andrew Irvine first to set foot on Changtse. They climbed the East ridge of Changtse to reconnoiter camp sites on the East Rongbuk Glacier.
1952 Reconnaissance of Changtse via Changtse Glacier by Edmund Hillary and George Lowe and group of Sherpas. They attained an estimated altitude of 21,500 feet before turning back after running low on supplies.
1982 The first ascent of Changtse was unofficially made on October 3 1982 by Johan Taks of the Dutch Everest Expedition who were officially climbing Everest from the north side. However, Taks climbed Changste without a permit.
1982 The first official ascent of Changste with a permit was completed 11 days later on October 14 by five members of a German expedition Udo Zehetleitner, Paul Braun, Rudolph Frick, Ludwig Hösle and Martin Engler. The ascent was made via the four kilometre-long NE Ridge from the junction of the East Rongbuk Glacier and Changtse Glacier.
1983 The next ascent and also the first solo was made by Chilean climber Gino Casassa May 14 1983 by the same route used by the Germans.
1986 Changtse was climbed again by a large Chinese-Japanese expedition in 1986. This expedition put eight Japanese and 16 Chinese on the summit May 10 and May 11 1986 again via the NE Ridge from the Changtse Glacier. Also included the first ascent by a woman, Mrs. Gunsung.
1986 American climber Ed Webster made the first solo ascent via the SE face from the foot of the North Col on August 28 1986 Most of this climb was done at night taking advantage of more stable snow and ice conditions.