Wikipedia

Contramar

Contramar[a] is a seafood restaurant in Roma Norte, Mexico City, Mexico, near Fuente de Cibeles. It is owned by the restaurateur Gabriela Cámara, who opened it in 1998 on Durango Avenue, with the premise of creating a space that recreated the experience of dining at a beachside restaurant.[2]

Contramar
The restaurant's wordmark mixing its name with a shape that resembles a fish.
The entry behind multiple parked cars.
The restaurant's entrance in 2025
Map
Restaurant information
Established14 August 1998; 27 years ago (1998-08-14)
Owner(s)Gabriela Cámara
Food typeSeafood
RatingBib Gourmand (Michelin Guide, 2024)
Street addressDurango 200, Roma Norte, Cuauhtémoc
CityMexico City
Postal/ZIP Code06700
CountryMexico
Coordinates19°25′10.5″N 99°10′01.8″W / 19.419583°N 99.167167°W / 19.419583; -99.167167
ReservationsRecommended
Other informationNearest station:
Mexico City Metrobús Line 1 Durango bus station
Websitecontramar.com.mx/

The establishment serves à la carte dishes and has received critical acclaim particularly for its tuna tostada. Its signature red-and-green pescado a la talla has been widely imitated by other restaurants worldwide. Contramar has attracted celebrities and foreign customers, has received multiple culinary distinctions, and it was the subject of a Netflix documentary. In 2025, the diner received a Bib Gourmand recommendation in the first Michelin Guide covering restaurants in Mexico.

Description

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The fish dish pescado a la talla was popularized by Contramar

Contramar serves à la carte seafood.[3] The restaurant created a supply platform that allows patrons verify the traceability of the fish. For example, Francisco de Anda of El Economista mentions that clams and unspecified fish are sourced from Puerto Libertad, Sonora, on Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays.[2]

Two signature dishes at Contramar are the pescado a la talla and the tuna tostada. The first dish is a Northern red snapper fillet split in half, with one side topped with a parsley-based sauce and the other in adobo sauce.[4] The tostada is prepared with thin slices of raw tuna, leek and avocado slices, and chipotle mayonnaise, served on maize toasted tortillas.[3] At its core, the dish is tuna tartare on a crisp base.[5] The recipe for pescado a la talla, which is accompanied by black beans and tortillas, allowing it to be eaten as a taco,[1][5] has been adapted by restaurants worldwide due to the versatility of red and green sauces. For instance, at Kalaya in Philadelphia, chef Nok Suntaranon prepares the dish with mackerel fish, jalapeño and chive to recreate the green sauce and a reddish coconut sauce mixed with ingredients from southern Thailand. Other adaptations have replaced the fish with chicken, or incorporated variations like tomatoes or ginger sauces.[4]

The oldest plate on Contramar's menu is pescado zarandeado, served since its opening.[6] Other items served include Mexican-style seafood dishes as well as international dishes, like chowder or Tiradito.[7]

Contramar has an open kitchen and a high ceiling.[8][9] The restaurant's interior design resembles a palapa.[10] Nils Bernstein mentioned that in the middle of the room in 2016 there was large hand-carved dining table, adorned with Casablanca lilies whose fragrance blended with the mesquite from the barrel grills.[1] There is a Poemario (anthology of poems), a blackboard that has featured sea-related poems written by Carlos Pellicer Cámara, Rosario Castellanos, José Emilio Pacheco, Juana Inés de la Cruz, among others.[2]

Contramar is located near the Durango bus station and the Fuente de Cibeles.[2][11] Food critics recommend reservations,[11][12] as they describe the place as usually full during lunch, especially on Fridays.[13][14] The sister diner Entremar, in the city's Polanco neighborhood, was opened to reduce customers' wait times.[15]

History

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Gabriela Cámara studied art history at university. Around 1996, while vacationing with a former boyfriend in Zihuatanejo, she conceived the idea of opening a restaurant in Mexico City that evoked the experience of dining in a beachside palapa.[3][16][17] Her goal was to offer city residents a way to enjoy that atmosphere if they were unable to travel to a coast.[5]

Cámara and her associates acquired an inexpensive former refrigeration parts store in the emerging Colonia Roma, where they covered the ceiling with straw mats and Carlos Pellicer López (nephew of Pellicer Cámara) painted fish skeletons on the walls.[3][17] The floor was tiled and had ceiling fans.[8] She recalled that when she began her career, the food industry was dominated by molecular gastronomy, French and Italian restaurants, and male chefs.[3][18]

Contramar opened on 14 August 1998 on Durango Street.[19] In the early days, she invited passersby to eat, assuring them that if they disliked the food, they would not have to pay.[2] The restaurant initially employed only male waiters, several of whom had previous legal troubles.[20] Contramar has drawn a celebrity clientele that includes artists, politicians, and musicians, as well as international visitors.[21][22]

Reception

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The tuna tostada served at Contramar received praise from food critics

Julia Moskin of The New York Times said that the dishes are known for their simplicity and refinement. She described the space as representative of a family dining experience on a beach vacation, with guests eating under a "leafy palapa", enjoying "freshly caught fish" with the promise of a relaxing siesta afterward.[10] Michael Parker Stainback, writing for Afar, praised the food and service at Contramar, noting that the restaurant is often full.[13] Similarly, Mariana Camacho from The Infatuation, adding that due to its popularity, reservations are often made months in advance.[23]

Ana Paula Tovar of El País recommended both seafood and non-seafood options (like sopes with beans), as well as meringue with strawberries or fig tart for dessert.[3] A reviewer for Condé Nast Traveler compared the experience to eating at The River Cafe in London, but dressed in a Tulum attire.[24]

The tuna tostadas have been widely praised, with critics describing them as "well-executed",[14] "stellar",[25] "legendary",[13] "iconic",[26] "delicate",[27] the city's cha siu bao,[28] and a "must-try" dish.[11]

Contramar, along with Cámara's Cala in San Francisco, is the subject of the 2019 Netflix documentary A Tale of Two Kitchens. Regarding the experience of opening a sister restaurant in the United States, Cámara stated: "Opening a Mexican restaurant in the United States is a paradox no matter how you look at it [...] there is a lot of curiosity and respect for authentic Mexican food. On the other hand, there is a larger culture that despises Mexicans".[10]

Contramar received in 2019 the Best Dining Room Service award from the México Gastronómico guide and Best Service in Mexico from Travel + Leisure magazine.[29][30] In 2023, Contramar was voted the tenth best international restaurant by Food & Wine magazine readers.[31] It also received a Bib Gourmand rating from the Michelin Guide in 2024, meaning "exceptionally good food at moderate prices".[32] Inspectors described the spot as enchanting and recommended the polbo á feira.[33]

See also

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Notes

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  1. ^ transl. "Against the sea"[1]

References

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  1. ^ a b c Bernstein, Nils (9 June 2016). "Gabriela Cámara Will Now School You on the Art of Mexican Grilling". Bon Appétit. Archived from the original on 26 January 2025. Retrieved 23 August 2025.
  2. ^ a b c d e De Anda Corral, J. Francisco (9 September 2023). "Contramar, 25 años cautivando paladares contra viento y marea" [Contramar, 25 years delighting palates through thick and thin]. El Economista (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 14 May 2025. Retrieved 26 August 2025.
  3. ^ a b c d e f Tovar, Ana Paula (10 May 2024). "Contramar creó la tostada de atún más famosa de México" [Contramar created Mexico's most famous tuna tostada]. El País (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 2 September 2024. Retrieved 24 August 2025.
  4. ^ a b Krishna, Priya (31 October 2024). "What's Red and Green and Served All Over?". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 29 March 2025. Retrieved 24 August 2025.
  5. ^ a b c Haskell, Rob (15 May 2019). "What's Next for Gabriela Cámara? A New L.A. Restaurant—And Foray into Politics". Vogue. Archived from the original on 13 July 2019. Retrieved 13 July 2019.
  6. ^ Limón, Isaac (5 April 2023). "Contramar, un ícono que nació para quedarse" [Contramar, an icon born to stay]. El Financiero (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 10 June 2025. Retrieved 26 August 2025.
  7. ^ "Contramar". The World's 50 Best Restaurants. Archived from the original on 28 March 2025. Retrieved 26 August 2025.
  8. ^ a b Toledo, Jorge (4 October 2013). "Y el éxito sigue: Contramar" [And the success remains: Contramar]. El Economista (in Spanish). Retrieved 27 August 2025.
  9. ^ Quine 2017, p. 52.
  10. ^ a b c Moskin, Julia (4 June 2019). "This Mexican Chef Is Having a Very Good Year". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 26 July 2025. Retrieved 23 August 2025.
  11. ^ a b c Armstrong et al. 2022, p. 204.
  12. ^ Hill 2009, p. 162–168.
  13. ^ a b c Parker Stainback, Michael (18 July 2014). "Review: Contramar". Afar. Archived from the original on 18 February 2025. Retrieved 23 August 2025.
  14. ^ a b Lindeman, Scarlett. "Contramar". Condé Nast Traveler. Archived from the original on 24 August 2025. Retrieved 26 August 2025.
  15. ^ Schultz, Emily (19 October 2019). "When You Can't Get Into Contramar, Entremar Has Your Back". Bon Appétit. Archived from the original on 26 March 2023. Retrieved 24 August 2025.
  16. ^ Barajas, Joshua; Brown, Jeffrey (29 January 2021). "How chef Gabriela Cámara had to adapt her restaurant for the pandemic". PBS. Archived from the original on 14 April 2025. Retrieved 23 August 2025.
  17. ^ a b Brown, Corie (23 February 2005). "Mexico City's new wave of chefs generates heat". Los Angeles Times. Archived from the original on 21 April 2025. Retrieved 23 August 2025.
  18. ^ Snyder, Michael (20 April 2023). "For Two Mexico City Chefs, a Culinary Legacy Is About Much More Than Food". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 20 June 2025. Retrieved 23 August 2025.
  19. ^ Pérez, Vanessa (2 September 2023). "El restaurante Contramar celebra sus 25 años" [Contramar restaurant celebrates its 25th anniversary]. El Universal (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 4 September 2023. Retrieved 24 August 2025.
  20. ^ Adler, Tamar (August 2017). "How Female Chefs Are Changing Restaurant Kitchen Culture". Vogue. Archived from the original on 31 January 2023. Retrieved 27 August 2025.
  21. ^ "Chef's Night Out: Contramar". Munchies. Vice Media. 15 June 2015. Archived from the original on 24 February 2025. Retrieved 23 August 2025.
  22. ^ "Contramar". Bon Appétit. Archived from the original on 3 April 2025. Retrieved 26 August 2025.
  23. ^ Camacho, Mariana (10 March 2025). "Contramar". The Infatuation. Archived from the original on 9 February 2025. Retrieved 24 August 2025.
  24. ^ Helou et al. 2017, pp. 53–62.
  25. ^ Groen 2016, p. 26.
  26. ^ Guevara, Guillaume (29 August 2024). "Entremar". The Infatuation. Retrieved 26 August 2025.
  27. ^ Martineau 2016, p. 62–63.
  28. ^ Bernstein 2013, p. 67.
  29. ^ Poblete Ritschel 2020, p. 60.
  30. ^ "#MexBest: Estos son los mejores hoteles y restaurantes de México" [#MexBest: These are the best hotels and restaurants in Mexico City]. Quién (in Spanish). 12 February 2020. Archived from the original on 4 October 2024. Retrieved 27 August 2025.
  31. ^ Flynn, Hansche & Yagoda 2023, p. 84.
  32. ^ Sibaja, Emma (14 May 2024). "Los restaurantes con estrellas Michelin en México" [The Michelin-starred restaurants in Mexico]. GQ (in Spanish). Archived from the original on 4 June 2025. Retrieved 3 June 2025.
  33. ^ "Contramar". Michelin Guide. Archived from the original on 15 May 2024. Retrieved 24 August 2025.

Bibliography

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  • Armstrong, Kate; Bartlett, Ray; Butler, Stuart; Harrell, Ashley; Hecht, John; Kaminski, Anna; Masters, Tom; Prado, Liza; Richmond, Simon; St Louis, Regis; Tang, Phillip (2022). Lonely Planet Mexico 17. Lonely Planet. ISBN 9781787017160. OCLC 1294684977.
  • Bernstein, Nils (June 2013). "Mexico City's Moment". Bon Appétit. Vol. 58, no. 6. ISSN 0006-6990.
  • Martineau, Chantal (March 2016). "Your Guide to Mexico City". Sunset. Vol. 236, no. 3. ISSN 0039-5404.
  • Flynn, Sean; Hansche, Melanie; Yagoda, Maria (May 2023). "World's Best Restaurants". Food & Wine. Vol. 46, no. 4. ISSN 0741-9015.
  • Groen, Danielle (October 2016). "A Novel to Take On". Chatelaine. Vol. 89, no. 10. p. 26. ISSN 0009-1995.
  • Helou, Anissa; Guzmán, Pilar; Petrini, Andrea; Needleman, Deborah; Prior, David (October 2017). "Where in the World to Eat". Condé Nast Traveler. Vol. 52, no. 9. ISSN 0893-9683.
  • Hill, Kendall (November 2009). "New-Wave Mexico". Gourmet Traveller. Vol. 9, no. 11. ISSN 1034-9006.
  • Poblete Ritschel, Claudio (2020). Guía MG México Gastronómico Los 120 restaurantes 2020: Culinaria Mexicana/S. Pellegrino/Nespresso. Larousse Cocina. ISBN 978-6072120570.
  • Quine, Oscar (30 January 2017). "Play it cool in Mexico City". Evening Standard. ISSN 1472-5223.

Further reading

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