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Terry Castro | |
|---|---|
| Born | Terry Castro 1972 Toledo, Ohio, United States |
| Died | July 18, 2022 (aged 50) Istanbul, Turkey |
| Nationality | American |
| Education | Self-taught |
| Known for | Jewelry design, Castro NYC |
| Movement | Contemporary jewelry |
| Spouse | Belinda Castro (divorced) |
| Children | SK Castro (born 2000) |
| Website | castronyc |
Terry Castro (1972–2022) was an American jewelry designer and founder of the luxury brand Castro NYC. Known for his gothic and surrealist aesthetic that combined brutalist abstraction with ornate craftsmanship, Castro's work drew from West African cultural heritage and addressed themes of identity, spirituality, and mortality.[1][2] Following his death in 2022, the brand continues under the creative direction of his child, SK Castro.[3]
Early life and education
editTerry Castro was born in 1972 in Toledo, Ohio.[1] Castro's mother, Mary, was a major influence on his character and style, according to reporting.[4]
Castro was entirely self-taught in jewelry making.[5][6] His entry into the field began when he wanted to possess jewelry himself and met someone with a jewelry store who suggested he learn jewelry repair as "the bread and butter of every jewellery store".[2] This foundation in repair work taught him to dismantle and reconstruct pieces, skills that became fundamental to his creative process.[2]
Career
editEarly period (2000–2006)
editIn 2000, Castro's son SK was born.[3] Castro opened a jewelry store in Toledo where he made repairs, but when the shop performed poorly, he began collecting materials and transforming them into his first original jewelry creations.[2]
New York period (2006–2016)
editCastro moved to New York City in 2006, marking the official beginning of Castro NYC.[5] He initially sold his handcrafted jewelry from a street table in SoHo at Prince Street, where he built his customer base over many years.[2][5]
During this period, Castro attracted discerning collectors, artists, and designers who became advocates for his career.[6] He worked with notable clients including Whoopi Goldberg, Steven Tyler, and Billy Gibbons from ZZ Top.[7][5] He also had pieces placed in Barneys.[2]
Castro faced challenges related to racial assumptions in the jewelry industry. He recalled an interview at Barneys where the buyer said, "when I walked in we thought you were some skinny white dude with a bunch of tattoos" upon seeing his skull collections.[2] At one point, Castro admitted he "didn't want my face shown because I was afraid it might affect the sales".[2]
Istanbul period (2016–2022)
editIn 2016, Castro relocated to Istanbul, Turkey, where he established a design studio and began collaborating with jewelry masters at the Grand Bazaar.[7] According to his son, this period marked a significant elevation in Castro's style and workmanship.[3] He worked with Armenian craftspeople and Turkish artisans with roots in classic Ottoman jewelry-making, while outsourcing certain production elements to world-class makers in Geneva and Athens.[6]
Castro's decision to leave New York was influenced by the series of racially motivated incidents in 2014. As he explained, he believed "the source is in Africa, and I need to go to the source. Maybe I don't stay but I need to go to the source. I need to make a pilgrimage".[2]
During his time in Istanbul, Castro was "finally starting to enjoy the fruits of his labors" and "was coming into the feeling of being recognized, his work being appreciated, and getting paid for it, too," according to SK Castro.[3]
Death
editTerry Castro died suddenly on July 18, 2022, from a heart attack at his home in Istanbul at age 50.[5][6] His death was described as "fatal yet quick" by his son SK Castro.[5] The jewelry community responded with an overwhelming outpouring of grief, with tributes highlighting both his artistic talent and his generous, magnetic personality.[5][6]
Artistic style
editCastro described his aesthetic with one word: "eclecticism".[2] His work was characterized by what has been described as a fusion of gothic and surrealist elements:[4][1]
- Gothic and Medieval elements: Heavy, ornate designs with dark, decaying beauty[4][1]
- Surrealist imagery: Dreamlike combinations and unexpected juxtapositions[4][1]
- African cultural references: Drawing particularly from West African heritage, specifically Nigerian and Benin civilizations[1][2]
- Hip-hop aesthetic: Connection to urban culture and jewelry traditions[2]
- Brutalist abstraction: Raw, powerful forms combined with luxurious materials[8]
Castro challenged traditional interpretations of his work, particularly regarding gothic and medieval influences. Through his research into European cathedrals, he argued: "As I was doing more research for example on these cathedrals, where did that influence come from in Spain? Oh, it came from the people who crossed over from Africa... So, I am not really doing gothic I am actually doing African".[2]
Themes
editCastro's work consistently explored several key themes:
Identity and cultural heritage
editCastro was explicit about the relationship between his racial identity and artistic practice, stating: "I personally do not think you can be black, African and your work doesn't reflect some part of Africa or Africanism because we live in this world where we have to think about so many other things that other people don't have to think about in a day".[2]
Death and spirituality
editMany of Castro's works dealt with mortality and spiritual themes. His animal skull series explored "the Black Death and death itself".[2] He chose crow skulls because they "meant two things of course death but it also meant life because the crows only come around when there is something to eat".[2]
Movement and masquerade
editCastro's porcelain doll collections incorporated moving mechanisms that he connected to African traditions: "So it is the same idea of this movement in Africa of the festivals and we're always dancing and we're always moving. With the masks also represent the masquerade".[2]
Technique and materials
editCastro initially worked with brass and bronze, materials he chose for their historical significance: "when I went to a museum you always see when they have a jewellery exhibit there will be silver, bronze, gold. To me they were historical materials that had been around forever".[2] He later incorporated precious stones and metals but never abandoned his original material choices.[2]
Castro was known for his unconventional approach to materials, stating "If I want to use toilet paper I will use toilet paper but I will figure out how can I make it beautiful and how can it last, because I like stuff that lasts".[2] He was guided principally by emotion in his material choices.[2]
His creative process originated from what he termed his "Dreamscape," described as "a murky world between life and death inhabited while sleeping".[1] He rarely created detailed sketches, preferring an intuitive, hands-on approach.[2] Each piece took months or years to complete, with Castro maintaining obsessive attention to detail and sometimes destroying completed pieces if they didn't meet his standards.[6]
Castro maintained an exclusive production model, creating only about 35 pieces per year.[3][7]
Influences
editBased on his statements and work, Castro drew inspiration from several sources:
Jewelry artists
editCastro admired JAR (Joel Arthur Rosenthal) and referenced his approach to working with silver alongside precious metals.[2]
African art and culture
editWest African masks, textiles, and architectural forms, particularly from Nigerian and Benin civilizations, were central to his work.[1][2]
Hip-hop culture
editCastro connected his aesthetic to hip-hop's emphasis on "shine," describing rap jewelry as "a metamorphosis of the 60s, 70s and early 80s where all the rhinestones were on the clothing".[2]
Historical art
editMedieval and gothic art, though he reinterpreted these through his African-centered perspective.[2]
Selected works
editMajor pieces
edit- Falcon Crest Necklace (2021) — Considered Castro's masterwork, featuring an antique bisque winged doll pendant set with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and pearls. Inspired by shields and bronze plates from the kingdom of Benin. Originally priced at $287,500.[3][1]
- Money Brooch (2021–2022) — Featuring Muzo emeralds, displayed at Sotheby's exhibitions[7][9]
- Catmando Ring — Features an antique carved jade leopard with rubies, emeralds, and sapphires[4][1]
- Lock Pendants Series — Signature pieces that became iconic to the brand, originally around $2,250, later $8,000–$20,600[3][2]
- The Marauder Ring — Gold, diamonds and sapphire piece inspired by A Tribe Called Quest's Midnight Marauders[2]
- Drip Earrings (2021) — 18k gold and sterling silver with diamonds and garnets[7][6]
Collections
editExhibitions
editMajor exhibitions
edit- Sotheby's "Brilliant & Black: A Jewelry Renaissance" (September 2021) — Curated by Melanie Grant, featuring 21 Black jewelry designers. Castro participated because of his relationship with curator Melanie Grant, whom he described as "the glue" of the project.[3][4][2][7]
- Sotheby's "Brilliant & Black: Age of Enlightenment" (September–October 2022, London) — Posthumous inclusion in follow-up exhibition[7]
- "Castro NYC Futurespective" (October 8, 2024 – January 11, 2025, Carpenters Workshop Gallery, London) — Major retrospective featuring more than 40 pieces, organized by SK Castro. Only the second time the gallery had mounted a retrospective dedicated to a jewelry designer.[3][4][10]
Trade shows
editCritical reception
editIndustry professionals recognized Castro's distinctive contribution to jewelry design. Frank Everett of Sotheby's noted that Castro's Antique Bisque Doll was "one of the most special pieces of the exhibition," calling Castro "an amazing force" who was "influential in this world".[6]
Designer Lorraine West, who considered Castro a mentor, recalled his advice to "keep my eye on the prize, to stay in my lane and keep creating my way".[11] His last text to West read, "You are the blessing".[11]
Paul Schneider of TWIST described Castro as "Puck with dreadlocks and a serious creator of very personal and inspired jewelry. There will never be another".[11]
David Rees of TenThousandThings called Castro "a pure artist" who was "really connected to the creating of the piece".[6]
Cultural impact
editCastro was forthright about the intersection of race and artistic practice in the jewelry industry.[2] Castro served as a leader and mentor in the jewelry community.[11] He was described as "a mentor to many artists, entrepreneurs, and human beings" and was noted for his advocacy work within the industry.[11]
Client philosophy
editCastro aimed to create jewelry that made clients "feel like rap stars" and wanted people to "pay attention to them" and ask "where the fuck did you get that?"[2] He described his clients as strong, confident individuals, stating that his female clients had to be "strong already" because his pieces were not for those who followed conventional trends.[2]
Market performance
editFollowing Castro's death, his work experienced significant price appreciation. Pieces that sold for around $3,000 in 2019 commanded nearly three times that figure by 2024.[4] Lock pendants that were originally priced around $2,250 in 2021 were later priced between $8,000 and $20,600.[3]
According to Tamara Platisa of Carpenters Workshop Gallery, "The work of Terry Castro is finally getting the recognition it always deserved, and with that comes an increased demand for each unique piece".[3]
Personal life
editCastro was married to Belinda Castro, with whom he had his son SK in 2000.[3] After their divorce, SK would spend summers in New York City with Castro, often helping in the workshop with tasks like sawing sprues and soldering.[3]
According to SK Castro, he "emphasized the power of words, and prayed every morning and night".[4] Friends described Castro as having "a very developed map of the history of the world in his head" and being like "a fountain of wisdom".[4] Designer Katherine Wallach described him as someone who "could sparkle and strut and then vaporize right in front of you".[6] He maintained a close relationship with his mother, calling her almost every day according to friends.[6]
Legacy and brand continuation
editFollowing Terry Castro's death, his child SK Castro took over Castro NYC operations.[3][12] SK had been working as his apprentice and production manager.[3][12] Initially uncertain about the brand's future, SK decided to collect pieces scattered in galleries and retailers worldwide.[3]
SK has stated plans to bring cultural elements "currently not part of the studio DNA" into the work while honoring their father's legacy.[3] As SK explained: "I have a lot of culture currently not part of the studio DNA I want to bring into the work".[3]
Collaborations
editReferences
edit- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k Grant, Melanie (October 21, 2024). "Exploring The Gothic And Surrealist World Of Castro NYC, The Black Master Jeweller". British Vogue. Retrieved August 28, 2025.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah mazzi (September 27, 2021). "Castro NYC: for the love of Jewellery". MagnusOculus.com. Retrieved August 28, 2025.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r Dukes, Tanya (2024-09-06). "A Son Cares for a Father's Legacy in Jewelry". The New York Times. Retrieved 2025-08-28.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j Matthams, Kate (October 8, 2024). "'It Was Vibrant': Sir King Castro Remembers Their Father As Castro NYC Jewelry Retrospective Opens". Forbes. Retrieved August 28, 2025.
- ^ a b c d e f g Dybis, Karen (July 25, 2022). "Remembering Terry Castro, Celebrated Jewelry Designer Of Castro NYC". JCK Magazine. Retrieved August 28, 2025.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m Davis, Ashley (July 29, 2022). "The Jewelry Industry Remembers Castro: A Complicated, Magical Designer". NationalJeweler.com. Retrieved August 28, 2025.
- ^ a b c d e f g Yost, Marla (September 20, 2022). "Brilliant & Black: Age of Enlightenment". Sotheby's. Retrieved August 28, 2025.
- ^ "Castro Legacy SS25 Press Release". Castro NYC. 2025.
- ^ Davis, Ashley (October 12, 2023). "SK Takes the Reins at Castro NYC". National Jeweler.
- ^ Silver, Hannah (October 8, 2024). "Discover the fantastical jewellery world of Castro NYC in London". Wallpaper*.
- ^ a b c d e f g "Castro NYC: for the love of Jewellery". COUTURE Show. 2022.
- ^ a b Davis, Ashley (October 12, 2023). "Sir King Takes the Reins at Castro NYC". National Jeweler.
External links
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